Kyle.

Submitted on 2012/02/18 at 12:09 pm | In reply to Kyle.

Kyle,
Sounds like you need a little lubrication! The “creeking and grinding” is probably both dry ball joints and dry pivot bushings. Ball joints that go dry make awful grinding and popping sounds, so get some grease in there and it will become quiet. The pivot bushings are made from urethane, a great durable tuff material that squeaks to high heaven when its dry, or overtightened! I would recommend a teflon grease or “neverseeze” as a good lubricant for the pivot bushings and be-careful not to over tighten them. Anything past snug where there is no slop or lateral movement is to much. Also be sure to use “locktite” on the bolt and nut so you don’t have to worry you haven’t tightened the nut enough!

DJM Tech

I have a 03 avalanche 2wd. Just put baer breaks on it, and going to put 24″ wheels. I want to put a drop on it, but don’t want it to rub. What is the best rout to take,and is 24″ wheels to big, should I get 22″ instead?
Thank you,
Gabe

Submitted on 2012/01/27 at 2:42 pm | In reply to gabe.

Gabe,

You have a lot of choices when it comes to lowering your 03 Avalanche from a 2″ Front / 2″ Rear to a 3″ Front / 5″ Rear. The amount that would be best for you is hard for us to say. Click here to see the kit available in the DJM Factory Store

Now you should be a little careful with 24″ wheels, there huge and you might lower to much for them to clear. If you use 22″ wheels you can use any kit and save some money along the way!

DJM Tech

I have a 1979 f100 429ci. Im wanting 2 get lowerd. I dont want to use the i beam system anymore. is there any other kit available , or what can i modify to fit? i plan on using air bags eventually. Any ideas? the rear will be 4 linked.

Tim

Submitted on 2012/01/26 at 9:28 pm

Submitted on 2012/01/27 at 2:19 pm | In reply to tim.

Tim,

I read about guys using Mustang II front ends or S-10 front ends, or read about a 1974 LTD front end installed in a 67 F100 in Garcia’s Garage posted in “The Garage” section of this site!

DJM Tech

Hi, i have a 88 ford ranger it has a 350 C.I chevy engine in it and i was wondering if your DJM front springs could handle the extra weight i also want to put a flipkit on the back with some wide slicks to give it more of a dragster look with the tires recessed into the wheel wells i was wondering what kit i should use ?

Hoolian

Submitted on 2012/01/08 at 1:34 pm | In reply to hoolian.

Hoolian,

Sounds like an interesting project, send us a picture when your done! We don’t make drop coil springs for your Ranger or any of the I-beam trucks because of the alignment issues with short coils. We build lowered I beams for these trucks that will give you a 3″ drop with the factory spring. Also you can use our flip kit for the rear, however if you use “dragster slicks” you may have to “tub” the bed and make modifications to the rear suspension.
Here is a link to our parts for your Ranger and let us know how it goes!!

DJM Tech

I have 2002 ext cad chevy truck with the 2/4 drop with control arms and hangers and shackles. I want to know if can use stock shocks up front with the control arms? next question is my pinion angle is not after the lower kit.I do have a 2 pices drive shaft with relocated carrier bearing but still vibration issue. I checked the drive shaft angle and it is -1 and the dif is +8 so this gives me a +7 on my pinion angle. If put a 6* shim this give me +1 for my new pinion angle. Is this issue with lowering kit?. also is it ok to use the aluminum shims. I here brake after a while is this true? Thanks for the help.
Aaron

Submitted on 2012/01/08 at 12:57 pm | In reply to Aaron.

Aaron,

First you can use factory length shocks with the control arms so long as you have not put a shorter spring in. Regarding your vibration problem, tell us when the vibration occurs example at what speed does it happen? Depending on when it happens there are a couple of things to try!

DJM Tech

I too am wanting to lower my 1980 F100 stepside. I am doing a total frame off. PLease let me know if you have a kit that I can use.

Clark

Submitted on 2012/01/06 at 8:19 am | In reply to Clark Patton.

Clark,

We need to find out some things about your 1980 F100. Look at your front I-beams and tell us are they equal or un-equal lenght, and do they use ball joints or king pins to mount your spindles to the beams? Wiht that info we can see what parts will work! Thanks

DJM Tech

Juan

Submitted on 2012/01/06 at 8:05 am | In reply to juan.

Juan,

We design our parts to be as strong or stronger than the original equipment part we are replacing. Frankly we have never had the opportunity to test our arms on a 800hp vehicle and we don’t know what could happen in your circumstance. As a rule your horsepower would cause problems in the rear before you could have any problems in the front unless you have radically increased the weight of the front end. If you decide to give us a try please let us know how things work and send some photo’s of your 800hp ride!!

DJM Tech

I lowered my Ram with your 2/4 kit and it was a bit lower in the front, by about 3″. I have a negative camber and my ball joints are at a sever angle. I need 2″ only because I installed 22″ rims. Can I use the control arms for the 2″ lowering and alignment correction? Do I need the upper and lower arms? Do I use the factory coils and shocks with the new control arms? Thanks for the great product. My truck looks great!

Joe

Submitted on 2012/01/06 at 7:49 am | In reply to Joe.

Joe,

What year is your Ram? And did you use springs only? If your working on a 94 – 00 Ram then using the upper arms can help you with the negative camber and the severe ball joint angles. If you add the lower arms you will get another 2″ of drop, or you could put your original coils back in with our arms for a totally alignable 2″ drop!

DJM Tech

Thanks,
Andy

Submitted on 2011/12/12 at 2:00 pm | In reply to Andy.

Andy,

Yes you do use the factory mounting shaft with your DJM upper arms. Here is an excerpt from the instructions pertaining to the upper control arms!
“Remove the mounting shaft from the factory upper arm and install in the new DJM upper arm. Mark a reference line on one of the bushings and steel sleeve and remove from arm. Apply some grease to the end of the mounting shaft and install into the new arm. Push the bushing back into the arm and then the sleeve. Make sure you align your reference lines. Install and tighten the nuts on each end of the mounting shaft. As you tighten the nuts check the gap between the inner edge of the sleeve and the shoulder of the shaft, there needs to be a .025 gap on both sides. Now mount on truck with factory hardware”.

Good luck with your 66, send us some pictures very curious to see what you doing!!

DJM Tech

I am wanting to drop my 2007 silverado ext cab 2wd 4/7. I have checked on prices through summit and it’s like $700. They suggested spindles w a flip kit n the rear and I read you sell the kit with control arms and yours is cheaper. If any, whats the difference in control arms VS. spindles?

Submitted on 2011/12/12 at 12:57 pm | In reply to kaleb.

Kaleb,
Very excited to here your going to lower your Siverado 4/7. We built our Calmax Control Arms to give you a 4″ drop without losing any suspension travel (ride comfort) or compromise your alignment (tire wear + handling). The lower arms do the lowering while the upper arms correct the ball joint angle and the alignment. With a 4″ drop the upper arm is in a very different position and the ball joint angle is severe, one of the drawbacks to the spindle+spring combo you need to drop 4″. Plus when you use the spring you actually lose two inches of suspension travel in the front where you need it most!. The control arms bolt directly into the factory mounting points, no need to remove the spindle or the strut. Both methods give you the four inch drop and work good, we just think you get more value with the Calmax Control Arm kits. Good luck and let us know how you did!

DJM Tech