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How To – Tech Lowering Articles

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A collection of installation articles, tech tips, and videos all related to lowering your rig. Keep digging to find your answer!

112 Responses to How To Tech Articles

  1. I purchase a set of your lower i-beams for my 1973 F100. They installed very easily. I put in a 6 inch flip kit. When I purchased you i-beams and shocks I told you I was lowering the rear with a block style flip b kit I had purchased. You sold me my i-beams and 4 shocks to fit me lowered f100. I’m finally getting around to puttingceverything on my truck. I did the rear flip kit first but never installed the rear shocks you sold me. After I installed the 3 inch front lowering i-beams. I installed the front shocks. The fir correctly. Then after awhile I got back to putting on my rear shocks. I’ve found that they are for a stock height truck. If I put the I in the hole on the frome the loop end sticks in the dirt on the ground. I know that I’m going to have to purchase a new set of shocks. Can you please tell me the number of the new “Loq er ed” shock I should use. From the top eye bracket to the centerms bottom loop it is approximately 12-1/2 inches. That is at my ride height now.
    Please let me know you product number & cost.
    Lee Olaeta

    • Lee,

      Because you have used a flip kit you do need a shorter shock, we only make a hanger & shackle kit for the rear of your F100 so the recommended shock would be too long. You have a 19″ fully extended shock and you can choose from a 15″, 17″, 18″ shock here. I’m guessing the 15 or 17 inch shock would be the right choice for you.

      Mark

  2. I’ve installed the upper and lower arms for a 98 ranger and can’t get the factory springs back in.
    Any help would be appreciated

    • Jesse,

      Where exactly are you at with you install? Do you have both the upper and lower arms fully installed without the spring? If you do, break loose the lower control arms ball joint put the spring into position and using a jack, move the lower arm up until you can attach the lower ball joint. Please be aware that these arm were designed to work with a 2″ lowered coil spring, so using the factory coil will be a little more difficult to install.

      Mark

  3. I own a 91 Chevy 1500 stepside 2WD. I am looking to do a 2/4 drop on it. I was looking to use control arms in the front as I need to replace bushings and ball joints anyway. I am running 15″ wheels with 265/75/15 in the front and 275/70/15 in the rear. I was wondering if I would have any fitment or rubbing issues in the front if I did drop control arms and new upper control arms. I was also concerned about running into U-joint issues because of the drop changing the working angle of the joints. Any information would be helpful, thank you!

    • Nick,

      IF you use the 2″ Calmax Control Arms with the factory coil springs you should have no issues with clearance, alignment, suspension travel, etc. As you said you will have new ball joints and bushings! The arms were designed back then because a spindle would rub the factory 15″ wheels. The 4″ rear hanger and shackle kit will not cause U-joint problems provided it is still in good working order, something to watch if you have a bunch of miles. Be sure you have the proper length shocks, especially in the rear. Good luck and send us a picture!

      Mark

  4. I recently bought a 2010 ford F-150 FX4. I’m looking to lower it 3/5 for easier entry and loading. I see that your 3/5 drop is NOT intended for 4 wheel drive, BUT will it still work? If not Please? inform me as to why.

    Thank you for your time on this matter.
    Sincerely: Dave

    • David,

      The 3″ arms physically bolt on, the issue is front drive shaft angles and CV joint clearance. We haven’t been able to really test a 4WD with the 3″ arms enough to solve those issues. The 2″ arms are fine, but if you use the 3″ arms on a 4WD you do void the warranty. That’s why we state “Not for 4WD” on the 3″ front kits and parts. Hope I haven’t ruined a really good idea you have?

      Mark

  5. I have a 94 chevy 1500.if I lower the front with a combination arm and coil drop for 5inches can I run my stock 15 inch rims? Also, if I run more than 6 inches of drop in the rear will I run into clerance issues such as frame and crossmembers? Thanks

    • Tim,

      Because you’re lowering the front with control arms you can keep your 15″ wheels without trouble! IF you drop the rear with a flip kit that includes a “C-notch” you are fine. If you don’t “notch the frame a 6” drop will ride like crap!

      Mark

  6. I wanting to to the djm-2555 on my 1997 gmc c1500 with 20″ rims I shouldn’t have any problems with tire rub or rims fitting with the new lower control arm should I?

  7. I want to c notch my 1997 gmc c1500 but can’t seem to find anyone to do it in my area, can you recommend someone in the central Florida area zip code 32765 thanks

    • Fred,

      Sorry to tell you we don’t know anyone in your neck of the woods we can recommend. If you have a mechanic you trust and use regularly they can install for you. It’s not hard if you have the right tools!

      Mark

  8. I just purchased the 2″ 4″ kit for my 04 trailblazer
    Can I add a lowering spring to the front to accommodate the new upper controle arms. And do you offet a lower controle arm tubular. I really want to set her on her face

    • Adam,

      Our 2/4 kit is designed to work with the factory coil spring. If you add a shorter spring you make have alignment and or suspension travel problems. Your best bet to get more accurate information is to check out this site http://www.tbssowners.com/. They are the experts on lowering Trailblazers off all kinds!

      Mark

  9. Trying to compress coil spring with Calmax C-arms. Can’t capture coil spring. What tool is needed?? Is there an internal coil spring compressor available??

  10. Hi DJM,after fitting my i beams on in nov 2015,i have sorted the minor problem i spoke to you about at that time and all is good,it was pulling a fair bit to the left at first and because wheel align are fairly excessive in price on these trucks i had a go at it myself so i could minimise the time the wheel aligners have it,and glad to say i have near spot on,took me a little while to figure out to set it but i am happy with the result,tracks straight ahead really good now,the only other problem i have is it handles unreal,now you might say that is not a problem,but with the wife in the truck and i come hurtling into a fast corner she tends to get a bit cranky because she is being pushed up against the door or nearly sliding of the seat,so now i have to restrict my fun time to when i am by myself,oh well such is life,anyway just thought i would drop a line and say awesome product keep up the great work,one happy customer.

  11. Hi DJM,

    First off, I absolutly love the gear you guys have and cant wait to bolt it on.
    I am just about to order the DJM lowering kit for my 1978 F100. Before I order, I was wondering if you do a lowering kit for my truck that is any lower than 3″ front and 4″ rear? I would really like to get the truck a little further down on it’s guts if possible!!!

    Cheers,

    Jono

    • Jono,

      Nope we do not have a lower kit for your 78 F100! Here’s why, to go any lower in the front would require a shorter coil spring. Building a great lowered coil is no problem, the problem is there is no way to adjust out the negative camber (top of tires pointing in) that shorter coils will produce. On your 78, camber is set by the length of the coil spring and caster is set by the I Beams. There is literally no adjustment that can be made on the kingpin twin I-beam suspension. Installing a shorter coil would cause negative camber that you have no way of getting rid of, bad tire wear etc. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but better you know now rather than later! Thanks for the kind words and let me know if I can help you any more!

      Mark

  12. I just got done putting the 3018-3/5 on my 12 F350 and I’ve found an issue I’d really like to get a firm answer to. What airbag kit is supposed to be used with the drop so that I can pull heavy loads? I went and hooked my 35′ travel trailer to it and the bump stops are now sitting on the axel!

    • Charles,

      Very sorry, just found your comment! I do not know what airbag kit would serve you best, we do not have any hands on experience with them. You should also consider using a weight distributing hitch, no compressor or air lines to fail and I do have personal experience with them and I think they work great. You can level your truck and tow by adjusting preload on the hitch to find the best “balance” for towing. I towed a travel trailer with a Bronco for years that way. Have a motorhome now but if I tow a trailer again I would go with the weight distributing hitch set up.

  13. Hi,to everybody at djm,i have just finished fitting my lowered I beams to my 1989 f150,i have been a mechanic for a number of years and so fitted them myself,it went together as if I were using factory parts,as a matter of fact I was starting to worry because it was going together so easy,but I did a rough camber/caster and toe wheel align and took it for a run,went great,i used the same shocks and springs that I had fitted about a year ago to the vehicle.I feels better on the road than it did with standard height springs,shock and I beam bushes,i am impressed,great work DJM.
    There is acouple of questions I have,do you think I should replace the shocks for your calmax type and the steering arm on the drivers side [our drvers side]runs very close to the pitman arm,do you have any suggestions to give it more clearance,i was thinking of a slight bend,then readjust the toe,any suggestions will be appreciated.Once again thanks and great product,impressive.

    • Greg,

      Thanks for the nice review! Regarding shocks, the front is still factory length so if you have good shocks you don’t need to replace, having said that, good performing shocks will help with ride quality and performance and in the rear you really need a shorter shock to work properly. I have not heard of a clearance issue with the steering arms on lowered Fords, do you have a picture? In fact do you have a picture of your truck!!, were always needing good lowered truck shots. Thanks,

      Mark

  14. Hi,i have just received your djm 3000-3 kit from summit racing on 30/10/15,when I opened the packaging to have a look at the I beams I noticed flakes of the powder coating in the box,on closer inspection there is about 3 small areas and 1 large [about inch and a half by three quarters]where the powder coating has come off.I understand that being freighted from the supplier to my home in Australia the box and contents would get knocked around,do you think it would adversely affect the I beams,i am willing to use them as I inspected them with a good magnifying glass and I cannot see any damage to the beam itself,is there anything you can suggest,i was thinking of getting a good quality paint and painting both beams to hide the blemish,if you can get back to me on your thoughts with this it will be much appreciated.

    • Greg,

      Sorry to hear about the paint! Don’t think you need to worry about the beams regarding strength or performance. Here in the states Rustoleum makes a paint product that looks like the powder coating on your beams, its called “hammertone” and is available is several colors (silver). If you can get that from the local shop it would work great to touch up the uglies from shipping! And thanks for choosing us for your suspension parts!!

      Mark

  15. I have just recently lowered my 05 GMC Sierra crew cab 4/6 using your control arms and flip kit with c notch. I have two questions as a result.
    1. I have a 1 piece drive shaft and it is rubbing the bottom of the cab according to the shop I took it to correct the pinion angel (so I thought). I was informed that pinion angel wasn’t the issue and that it was the size of the drive shaft. They worked the bottom of the cab to create a little space but it still rubs. I ordered your shorty shackles because the rear does sit a little low hoping this will help. Have you heard of this issue and what do you suggest?
    2. Second question is, will belltech air jack helper spring part #5008 work with you guys c notch? Don’t mean to offend you but I can’t find helper springs that will work with the c notch bracket (this kit is designed to work with a notched frame). If you guys sold them I would buy them in a heartbeat.

    • Malvin,

      You are the first guy to have this sort of issue, could you send pictures? Second question, there used to be a couple of people who made bag kits that worked with our frame supports, AirFlex, AirRide, come to mind. I don’t know right know if they still do or not. Sorry I’m not up to date on that!

      Mark

  16. Just brought home a 2015 Chevy Silverado,standard cab,”Blackout Edition”.It has aluminum lower control arms.Can I use your kit #2515 to bring it down? Also,can I use the factory 20″ wheels,or will they rub?

    • Hey Tony,

      The arms are all aluminum, the important thing is if you have cast aluminum spindle or steering knuckle or a cast iron one. When we know that we will know which parts you need!

      Mark

  17. do you have a kit for a f150 2015 fwd I have to lower it because my wife has a disability chair that comes out. it dose not go down fare enough . I put one on a 2012 fwd and it works

    • Edwin,

      Hang in there, we have a test F150 running around right now with 2015 parts. Should be only a couple of weeks and we can go into production. You can look at what I think will be available soon, just click here!

      Thanks for the positive testimony on your 2012!

      Mark

  18. Hi,i am in the process of buying your 3 inch lowered i beams for my 89 f150,i realise there are others here in australia
    that have done the same,but lowering f series is not common,what i would like to know is when i take my truck for its yearly inspection (i will have it lowered by then)if they query the i beams is there a information sheet that compares your beams to the original beams in strength etc.
    I am hoping that i dont encouter any problems,because then you have to get engineers inspection and it is always BS.
    If i have something i can quote or print out i can then show the inspector and put him at ease.I realise that you may not disclose some info but any help will really be appreciated.

    • Greg,

      Here is the info we have used in the past. Hope this can help you out!!

      Mark

      DJM Suspension
      580 W. 184th St.
      Gardena California 90248
      USA
      310 538-1583
      Part number: DB3004-3 Ford F100 1965 to 1979 Beam Lowering Kit
      Description: This product is designed to lower the front suspension of a Ford F100 three inches to
      improve handling, lower center of gravity, and to enhance customer experience.
      Bill of Material
      1.875X.188 DOM ASTM 513
      2.5X1.5X.188 ASTM-A500
      1.5X.188 DOM ASTM 513
      1.0X.049 DOM ASTM513
      .875X120 DOM ASTM 513
      3/8 HR CARBON A36 Plate
      3/16 HR CARBON A36 Sheet
      Product Hardware list
      1) Left beam
      1) Right beam
      1) Tie rod relocation kit
      4) Urethane Bushings installed
      Construction
      These parts are fully welded using 300 amp welding power supply. Liquid argon and Co2 are mixed
      to enhance weld purity.
      All Ford Beams are fully powder coated conforming to all California,USA AQMD standards
      SPECIFICATION SHEET

    • Jim,

      If you install the 3″ Calmax arms with the factory springs you should be able to align to factory specs with the factory upper control arms. The key is using the factory coil springs!

      Mark

    • Lucas,

      DJM has 2WD kits for the HD’s. The 2WD suspension is a torsion bar type just like your 4WD but they have no experience with lowering the 4WD’s. You might be able to make the 3/5 kit work, they also make a 6/8 kit but I wouldn’t try that one, I gotta believe that you would have half-shaft issues at that ride height. You can look at the 2WD kits here. If you try, please let me know how it works!!

      Mark

  19. I got a 2003 chevy S10 i lowered with your 2inch spindle amd 1inch coil. Now the drivers side is lower than the passenger side by an inch and a half any reason why this has happened?

    • Javier,

      Do you have any before measurements? This is important, because almost all trucks at stock ride height are off by any where from 1/4″ to a full inch, (sometimes more) so when you lower them they are still off from side to side but now you can see it big time! This is caused generally because the trucks aren’t balanced weight-wise from one side to the other. For example the gas tank is on one side and when full of fuel can weigh up to a couple hundred pounds, you also have air-conditioner compressors, batteries, and any other heavy object which can be mounted to one side of your truck and not the other. The most effective solution is to shim up the low side, and the cheapest way to do that is get a foot or so of heater hose, (the thick walled very tough hose) and slice it down the middle like you were cleaning a fish, then remove the coils spring from the low side and tape the hose to the end coil of your spring and install. Generally speaking the wall thickness of heater hose is around 3/8″ so you can expect to see about 3/4″ of gain on your low side. This technique usually gets you very close to level side to side and doesn’t cost much. Good Luck!!

      Mark

  20. So I have an 03 Silverado z71 4×4 with torsion suspension and thinking of using lowering control arms CA2001L-3d/CA2001L-3p.
    The mount for the shocks on them appear to be forked? Meaning the shock’s end would have to be an eyelet with bushing?
    I haven’t ordered the control arms yet, but judging from pictures I’ve seen online they are forked.

    Factory wise, the stock shock have a forked end and the bushing/eyelet is actually on the factory control arm basically vise versa.

    Meaning I would have to use Calmax Shocks 1415 only in conjunction with calmax control arms? What if I decided to use a different brand of drop shocks? Like I saw a different brand drop shock for my truck thats a little stiffer than calmax and the connections are like OEM so I wouldn’t be able to use them with the lowering control arms without fabricating.

    • Phoung,

      The factory shock mounts are unique to that 4WD Chevy platform. We made are arms so they will work with most shock mounting types. You would need to change shocks to use our arms with your application,(you also need shorter shocks to optimize the ride) and you are right that any shock with the factory lower mount would not bolt up to our lower control arms.

      Mark

      Mark

  21. hey guys i have been looking at your DJM3000 3/4 drop kit for my 1995 ford f-150 now my main concern is in the back end of the truck…now i don’t see any kind of a notch plate that comes with this kit. now am i going to have enough room under the box that when i mount this it will not hit the underside of the box? and what about the factory sway bars? do they stay in the stock location? i would like to move up to a ford lightning sway bar at a later date ( when i can find a set) i do plan on possibly keeping my factory wheels i may have to change them out back spacing i think is too much if i am right they are 15×7 or maybe 15×8 and i just have the 235/75/15’s on the truck now. if i have to i may move up to a 17 inch wheel i would like to keep the truck looking as stock as possible with just a few small things to tidy it up. oh if there is a instruction link that is out there for this kit could you please send it to me? i have tried you tube and a few others and i am not getting anything for a 95 ford. i thank you for your time and i hope to here back from you soon. thanks gary

    • Gary,

      You are correct, there are no “c-notch” plates with this kit! Unless your dropping more than the 5″ you get with the flip kit you will have plenty of room for your axle. If you load the rear all the time you could be on your bump stops more often but then the rear would be lower than the front as well. Regarding your swaybar, I am assuming you only have a front bar form the factory. A front factory bar is very rare and even more rare is a factory rear swaybar! Click here to see the instructions for installing the beams in the front and you can read about the swaybar (download instructions link)! Plus you can see all the parts for your 95 F150
      Good Luck!

      Mark

  22. I have been out of the lowered scene for awhile so I am trying to get back up to speed. I have a Custom shop and we are going to Lower a C10 67-72. Set it on 20″-22″ wheels. and want it low. but the cheapest way. I will fab the crossmember if we go that far. My question is Can You use your 3″ spindles and a 3-4″ spring?

    • Craig,

      Sure you can use the spindle and a 3″ spring, not aware of any 4″ springs though. That combo will put you on the ground and probably cause some issues with ground clearance and camber. It will also not be the best ride quality but it will be about as low as you can go in the front and still roll down the road. Note that our spindles are made for the 73 and up C10’s (with disk brakes) so you would have to upgrade the brakes and change the tierod ends to make that work. Or you could use our 3″ lower control arms with the coils and leave everything else stock. Click here to see the parts!

      Mark

  23. Mark,
    I bought the arms through summit racing can I exchange them through you guys for the 5″ lower arms then purchase the upper control arm? I really love the look of the arms it makes me feel like I’ve done something to my tuck!! Lol

    • Eric,

      We can’t do an exchange with used parts. I can get you a good price on the 5″ parts (contact me via email). You can probably sell the 2″ arms on Craigs list, or e-bay or to a friend, they are a popular way to do a 2″ drop (better than springs) and some think better than spindles. Let me know!

      Mark

  24. I just installed the calmax 2″ arms on my 03 silverado and I also have mcgaughys 3″ drop spring installed, I noticed the sway bar end links at a funky angle almost like the sway bar is too long. Is there a way to correct this or do I have to put the stock spring back in to do so?

      • They’re not to long but they are in the wrong position in relation to the sway bar, so with both installed (drop springs/ arms) the sway bar seems too long and the end links look like / but way worse. I want to keep them both cause I love the look but may have to go another route to get my 5″

          • I took the arms off but I have drawn an illustration of what it looked like if that will help. Also I did notice when I jack the truck up the ca moved downward and the links straighted out. What email can I send it too?

          • Eric,

            Got the drawing from tech@calmaxsuspension.com thanks. I think the problem is most likely the combination of a 3″ coil with the arms. All of our arms for your truck are designed around the factory spring. We made 2″ coils to work with the factory arms and did not want to lower any more with a spring because it has negative consequences. The best way to get a 5″ drop would I think be to use the 5″ Calmax upper and lower arms and factory coils. You have factory alignment and no wheel or swaybar clearance issues. If you want to stick with the 3″ spring you are going to cause some problems to get to 5″. As a practical thing you could I suppose modify the Calmax arms by moving the swaybar mounting point to get a better alignment on the swaybar endlink, knowing of course that would compromise the warranty.

            Mark

  25. just purchased upper controll arms for 78-C10 chevy the instruction say that the ball joints should be slightly rearward my oem arm appeared to be slightly foreward so i installed them per the instructions and it just doesnt look right to me any suggestions

    • Rodney,

      The reason the ball joints are slightly rearward is to set the caster angle properly. If your alignment is correct then I guess what your seeing is ok. If you haven’t had it aligned yet you should make sure everything is tight and do so, that might change what you see!

      Mark

  26. Hi there!
    I have a 86 chevy c10 that uses the calmax lower and upper control arm and drop coils as well. I have the stock spindle on it as well but my problem is that I have to shim the crap out of my upper control arms to get the right alignment and i mean a lot.

    My brother had bought everything needed to drop it as a kit years ago and when I acquired the truck, its always been something that has bothered me for some time.
    It would seem the upper control arm is not long enough and is creating the effect of over shimming them.I even compared one frame to another measuring from one side of the cross-member to the other to see if my frame was damaged or bowed in for any reason but the measurement of both frames were the same. it does have front disc brakes as well if that helps at all.
    what I would like to know is how long the control arm is from the center of the ball joint to the outside edge of the link closest to the frame so I can compare the one I have to one you guys have for my truck. I hope we can come up with a solution to my problem and fix it once and for all!
    Thank you for your time and have a good one!

    • Drew,

      The C-10 platform is the only one with the shim situation. It is the drop coil springs (usually) that cause the need for more shims to get the camber correct and frankly some trucks need more shims than others even with the same parts. Question, are you sure you have Calmax upper control arms? I want to know if we can do something via upper arms. Your not the only guy with this problem Drew, let me know if the parts are DJM and we will go from there!

      Mark

      • Yes the upper control arms are the calmax/DJM brand. I still have the receipt from summit racing that list all the suspension upgrades from your company. I also cross reference numbers from the receipt to summit’s website as well as yours to make sure the upper control arms were the correct ones for my application and everything matched up perfectly.
        I noticed that you specified calmax upper arms and in the last sentence to let you know if they are DJM parts. just to clarify for myself, calmax and DJM are the same company correct?
        Thank you for your time and have a great week!

        • Drew,

          Calmax arms are made by DJM so no worries there. Some of the C-10’s need a-lot more shims than others and it sounds like you have one of them. To reduce the number of shims now you would have to put a longer spring in, which of course, would lift your truck. There are not many options for you, having a bunch of shims to get your alignment is not an optimum situation, but to keep your ride height it is probably your best bet. Inspect the upper arm mount frequently to make sure it doesn’t work loose. Sorry I don’t have a better solution for you.

          Mark

  27. Whats the deal,
    I ordered &, installed the JDM 3/5 dream beams &, rear flip kit. The rear is gravy but, my front end passenger side sits lower &, tire rubbing occures at all times. Unlike the driver side. Installed the calmax shocks as well rear &, front. Any suggestions??

    • Cesar,

      I guessing that your working on a SuperDuty and using the factory coil springs. If that’s true let me know how much lower is the passenger side? If your not using factory coils, you should be just for alignment sakes. Anyway tell me more about the parts.

      Mark

    • Toby,

      I would love to point you to a video or more info on installation. I don’t have video (bummer, but working on that) and the closest info here is this 4/6 install on a 99 Sliverado. Hope this helps.

      Mark

  28. have a 2000 s-10 (basic 4cyl-5speed reg cab) that I am installing a set of your 2 inch drop spindles on. Do not like the looks the brakes hose lenths now, they look to be too long and are hitting the upper ball joint stud nuts. Is there a shorter brake hose avaliable that you use to fix this problem?

    Also there is a minor problem with the turning radius stops. Your spindle has about a 1/2 inch casting rib running for&aft (no rib found on the original factory spindles) that hits the a-frame stop. I see a possible fix for this in having to cut about a 1/2 of metal of the top of the a-frame stop so as to have hit below the rib. Will this work?

    • Ted,

      Sorry about getting back to you late, got slammed. Your first question about brake lines, I am not aware of a specialized hose kit which are shorter than stock but you can probably rearrange things to take up a little slack. Regarding the steering stops you can trim where you need to gain a little more turning radius, just watch that you don’t allow the tire or wheel to make contact.

      Mark

    • Omar,

      We have not made spindles for your Ranger we made Calmax Control Arms and coil springs. If you want a 2″ drop just use the springs, if your want more (who doesn’t) then use the springs with Calmax control upper and lower arms for a 4″ drop that rides great and aligns to factory specs! Click here to see the parts!

      Mark

    • Jeff,

      We really don’t know what might happen if you combine those parts. My instincts tell me that you may have some scrub line issues or maybe tie rod issues. We have never tried what your doing, good luck and please let us know what happens!!

      Mark

    • Scott,

      F-150 parts are different from F-250. We are not currently making lowering beams for your F250, sorry!

      DJM Tech

  29. Purchased DJM Dream Beams as part of a kit to lower my 1990 F150 2WD longbed 3″. The 3/4″ bolt connecting the stock I-beam to the radius arm passed through .748 holes in the original beam. Had to cut the ends off the bolt and press out the remainder (press fit). The holes in the new beams are .790 with powdercoating on the inner surfaces. Bolt will drop in and has considerable play. Is this right? Will it hold an alignment?

    • Thom,

      The bolt which holds the I-beam and radius arm together is not pressed in (or a press fit). They often have to be “pressed out” because they simply become one with their I-beam and radius arm pals after years of being together. Go a ahead and install and tighten up, every thing will be fine!

      DJM Tech

    • Cory,

      You don’t need a lot off stuff to lower your Ford. Just remove and replace the I-beams in the front and as far as the rear goes, all you really need is the axle brackets to seat the axle on top of the leaf springs! You should be able to use the factory u-bolts and spring plates (this helps keep the cost down), but if you need new ones you can get them from a NAPA store or maybe a junkyard or as a last resort from Ford. Almost always though guys are able to use the parts they already have.!

      DJM Tech

  30. I have a 2004 dodge ram with you guys’ lower arms and a flip kit. I was wondering two things, do you guys make an upper arm for this truck also or just the lower? Also, can I use drop coils along with my lower control arms and still be able to get it into olfactory alignment specs? I had to cut tie rods and slot the upper arm mounts outward already.

    • Tyler,

      We don’t make an upper arm for your Ram, we do make a spring but it is designed to be use with the factory arm, and our Calmax drop arms for your Ram are designed to be used with the factory coil springs. If you combine them it will lower your truck more but you will suffer from more negative camber than you can adjust out even after slotting the upper arm mounts.

      DJM Tech

  31. i got a 70 gmc c-15 with 1982 stock spindles for disc brakes, i got a set of 2 inch drop springs can i use them springs with your 1982 lower control arms to lower it 5 inches ,the ball joints on my stock control arms yo 82 ball joints so spinles would work can u email tech supports phone number before i buy control arms or spindles what would be better ride

    • John,
      You can use the 2″ springs with our control arms for a 5″ drop no problem! Drop spindles requires you change to 73-87 upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends to get the same effect. Give us a call at 310-538-1583 and hit extension 10!

      DJM Tech

  32. I have 2002 ext cad chevy truck with the 2/4 drop with control arms and hangers and shackles. I want to know if can use stock shocks up front with the control arms? next question is my pinion angle is not after the lower kit.I do have a 2 pices drive shaft with relocated carrier bearing but still vibration issue. I checked the drive shaft angle and it is -1 and the dif is +8 so this gives me a +7 on my pinion angle. If put a 6* shim this give me +1 for my new pinion angle. Is this issue with lowering kit?. also is it ok to use the aluminum shims. I here brake after a while is this true? Thanks for the help.

    • Aaron,

      First you can use factory length shocks with the control arms so long as you have not put a shorter spring in. Regarding your vibration problem, tell us when the vibration occurs example at what speed does it happen? Depending on when it happens there are a couple of things to try!

      DJM Tech

  33. I am wanting to drop my 2007 silverado ext cab 2wd 4/7. I have checked on prices through summit and it’s like $700. They suggested spindles w a flip kit n the rear and I read you sell the kit with control arms and yoirs is cheaper. If any, whats the difference in control arms VS. spindles?

    • Kaleb,
      Very excited to here your going to lower your Siverado 4/7. We built our Calmax Control Arms to give you a 4″ drop without losing any suspension travel (ride comfort) or compromise your alignment (tire wear + handling). The lower arms do the lowering while the upper arms correct the ball joint angle and the alignment. With a 4″ drop the upper arm is in a very different position and the ball joint angle is severe, one of the drawbacks to the spindle+spring combo you need to drop 4″. Plus when you use the spring you actually lose two inches of suspension travel in the front where you need it most!. The control arms bolt directly into the factory mounting points, no need to remove the spindle or the strut. Both methods give you the four inch drop and work good, we just think you get more value with the Calmax Control Arm kits. Good luck and let us know how you did!

      DJM Tech

  34. Hello, I’m using a chassis from a 1994 Dodge 1500 to hot rod my 1966 Dodge. I picked up a set of upper and lower control arms to lower the front end, but am unsure as to how to attach the upper control arms. Do I use the factory “hinge” bar (the bar that is bolted to the frame and used for alignment and fulcrum point for control arm)? Or is there a replacement piece to attach the arm to the frame?

    Thanks,
    Andy

    • Andy,

      Yes you do use the factory mounting shaft with your DJM upper arms. Here is an excerpt from the instructions pertaining to the upper control arms!
      “Remove the mounting shaft from the factory upper arm and install in the new DJM upper arm. Mark a reference line on one of the bushings and steel sleeve and remove from arm. Apply some grease to the end of the mounting shaft and install into the new arm. Push the bushing back into the arm and then the sleeve. Make sure you align your reference lines. Install and tighten the nuts on each end of the mounting shaft. As you tighten the nuts check the gap between the inner edge of the sleeve and the shoulder of the shaft, there needs to be a .025 gap on both sides. Now mount on truck with factory hardware”.

      Good luck with your 66, send us some pictures very curious to see what you doing!!

      DJM Tech

  35. I have a 2002 Ford Ranger and just ordered your 4/5 drop package. I was wondering if I would have to get smaller wheels when dropping the truck. It comes stock with 235/75/15 wheels. Ive looked online and all the trucks, that I could find, with this setup have aftermarket wheels.

    Thanks, Jesus

    • Jesus,

      Our lowering kits are generally developed on trucks with the factory wheels, any combination of wheels and tires that have the same overall diameter will have no problems (assuming no change in offset). You don’t need to change your wheels and tires to use our kit but if you want to there are many great choices available for you!

      Good luck with picking something cool and let us know what you chose!

      DJM Tech

  36. I would like to lower the rear of my 2008 superduty f350 dually. Mild, 2 or 3 inches is all I need. Is this possible? Thanks, Bob

    • Bob,

      Sorry about the late reply, we changed servers for the site and have been scrambling ever since to find out what’s not working, turn out the comments were not getting to us! I am also sorry to report to you that in 2008 Ford started welding the leafspring eye hangers to the frame making us totally redesign the rear drop kit. We might be able to help you with a 1″ shackle on the rear of your leaf, or the next choice is 5″ with a rear kit that moves the axle on top of your leafs. I haven’t been much help I am sorry!

      DJM Tech

  37. I have a 99 Ford Ranger Extended Cab bagged on 20’s. I am running slam specialties SS6’s at all 4 corners. I bought the DJM Calmax 4″ dropped upper n lower control arms to replace my stock ones. I removed the plastic inner fender wells. My problem is clearance issues. the upper control arm is less then a half inch away from my tire. Im also gonna hafta cut my frame for my rack n pinion so it doesnt bend the hell outta it. when I let all the air out of the front bags my upper arm comes so far up its almost into my brake fluid resivor, My question is are these upper n lower arms ONLY MENT TO BE USED WITH SPRINGS???

    • Roy,

      When we design kits it’s always around a static drop with factory wheels and tires. We know then our parts will lower and align with the truck they were designed for. When you add air bags to the mix it creates more ride height options than we can cover. So to answer your question, yes we were designed to be used with springs, having said that the Ranger parts have become very popular with the air bag installers and a lot of guys are using them with their bagged trucks!

      DJM Tech

  38. I’m wanting to do a 3/5 inch drop on my 2000 chevy silverado 2wd for as cheap as possible(less than 250 max). What parts would you recommend?

    • Taylor,

      The closest lowering kit we have to your $250 budget s a 2/4 kit that consists of coil springs in the front and a hanger/shackle set for the rear. Click on The DJM Factory Store for a link.

      You may find a better price at Summit Racing, or Stylin Trucks.

      The cost for a 3/5 kit is more than your budget allows, that consists of control arms in the front and a flip kit in the rear. A great kit but the cost is $571.

      DJM Tech

      • im wanting the same on my 2000 1500 standerd cab long bed 2wd. can i do a 2/4 lowering kit and still use the factory shocks? a quick response would be great and im looking at the djm 2/4 kit so i want to order it but want to know if i need new shocks. thanks

        • Robert,

          You can use the factory shocks with the 2/4 kit, it will ride better with the correct length however. Go ahead and run the stock shocks until you can replace them with lowered shocks!

          Mark

  39. I’m looking to buy upper and lower control arms for my 70 c-10
    It is stock with drum brakes, but i will add aftermarket disc brakes when i install your arms.
    Will this work? what part numbers?
    Just trying to get it right before i tear it apart.
    Thanks Jeff

    • Jeff,

      Thanks for considering us when buying your suspension parts! We make the arms both way’s. Our part number’s CA2355U (upper) & CA2355L-3 (lower) are for a drum brake truck and part number’s CA2356U (upper) & CA2356L-3 (lower) are for a disc brake truck. If you are definitely going to upgrade to disc brakes then use the CA2356 numbers. They come with new ball joints, bushings and cross shafts installed and ready to mount in the factory locations on your truck! Here is a link to the factory store http://www.djmfactorystore.com

      DJM Tech

  40. I’m prepping to install the 3/4 drop on my 95′ ranger and I’m almost 3/4″ lower on the driver’s side. I want this to be level at all times. What shims should I use to correct this? Could you give me a part number for it?

    Thanks
    Tommy

    • Tommy,

      You might cause yourself a fair amount of frustration trying to be “level at all times.”
      Try this experiment, go to a Home Depot parking lot and measure the ride height of box stock pick ups, you will find that they are not level side to side, some by as much as 3/4″ or more. You can’t see it at stock height but boy when you lower your truck it sticks out like a sore thumb. Why is this your wondering, well truck (or cars) are not perfectly balanced weight wise front to rear or side to side. The gas tank is on one side and not the other, the battery the same, air conditioner compressors, etc. Your 3/4″ measurement is a little excessive but not really unusual, and good news, you can do something about it! The cheapest way to fine tune your ride height and very common fix is to use a lenght (approximately a foot or so) of heater hose (thick walled reinforced hose) sliced down the middle like your cleaning a fish, slide it over and tape to one end of the coil spring. The wall thickness will act like a shim and give you a 1/2 to 3/4″ lift on the low side of your truck. This will get you a lot closer to “level” without spending a lot!

      DJM Tech

  41. I have a 1994 chevy 1500 and I purchased a 4/6 drop consisting of lower a-arms and coil springs for the front and a rear axle flip kit I also have the bushings for the sway bars. I need to know which shocks I can use I have brand new set of shocks on the truck already I need to know which c-notch to use and I also need instructions for the entire lowering kit and the sway bar bushings
    Thanks in advance

    • Jack,

      Do you have part numbers for the lowering kit you have? You should have a c-notch with the flip kit as well as instructions. You can download our instructions from our djmsuspension.com website by going to applications then choose chevy, then silverado 1994, and click on the part numbers and the instructions for those parts should pop up. As far as replacing the swaybar bushings they probably simply replace the rubber factory parts. Again, let us now what the part numbers are and we can help you more!

      DJM Tech

  42. I am lowering (2/2) my 2001 S10 RWD. Looking at your website I am a little confused about the pinion shims (1023BP) – the website says they are required for 3″ and 4″ blocks. If I use the 2″ steel blocks (SB2LK) do I still need the shims?

    Thanks
    Bruce

    • Bruce,

      The 1023BP is for the aluminum blocks on newer S-10’s. The leaf springs are not flat where the blocks mount and you can crack aluminum blocks when you tighten them up. With the steel blocks you want to use you don’t need the 1023BP!

      DJM Tch

  43. what adjustments will I need to make so the drive shaft will not cause trouble on my 2011 f-250 reg cab 2×4 .

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