2007 Chevy Silverado Suspension Drop by DJM
THE ’07 SILVERADO IN THE WEEDS
DJM installs their new 3-6 Calmax drop kit for the new Chevy
Story & photos by Marshall Spiegel
Originally Published in 2007
The new ’07 Chevy Silverado has to be one of Detroit’s best efforts of late. It is a big, robust, comfortable pickup with more than enough power; excellent interior appointments and ride and handling to die for. It features stock ride height of 22 ¼”
in front and 25”in the rear. Like most new American vehicles, the rear is noticeably higher than the front, resulting in a stance that is unappealing too much of the market.
Drawing on the success of the drop kits they designed, engineered and are now manufacturing for the ’07 Chevy Tahoe, DJM Suspension of Gardena, CA, has created a line of drop kits for the new Silverado. The dimensions of the drop kits are 2¼ inches by 3 inches; 2¼ by 4½; 3¼ by 5; 3¼ by 6; 4¼ and 7. As always, the DJM engineers’ primary consideration was to produce lowering kits that would not adversely effect the Silverado’s ride and handling.
One of the lowest of DJM’s new drop kits for the ’07 Silverado, 3 ¼ “ by 6”, is achieved by installing specially engineered upper and lower control arms to lower the front and a flip kit and special hanger brackets to drop the rear.
By positioning the leaf spring bolt so close to the gas tank, the manufacturer has challenged the installer who must remove the leaf spring pack to flip the axle. The obvious approach is to remove or loosen the gas tank and an interfering section of the exhaust system so that the leaf spring bolt can be removed. Removing the gas tank is laborious; time-consuming and expensive for the customer. DJM is offering a quicker and easier technique by removing a few elements such as the “U” bolt, the leaf spring center bolt and the brake lines; supporting the axle on a floor jack with wheels and moving the axle sideways just enough so the leaf spring clears the axle. The following photos show exactly how the DJM approach gets the job done without the need for removing the gas tank and offending exhaust system components.
To further simplify the job and make it as easy as possible, the new kits from DJM come complete with ball joints installed and all components ready to install. However, to prevent damage in shipping, the zerk fittings for lubricating the twin tube sleeves are not screwed in place at the factory. Therefore, the enclosed directions require the installer to simply screw the zerk fitting into the predrilled lube holes and add lubricant through the zerk fittings.
As you can see from the accompanying photos, installation of the DJM 3¼ X 6 drop kit is clean and straightforward, giving the Silverado a considerably more aggressive and attractive stance.
(This kit is available at the djmfactorystore.com). Check out the photo gallery below to see how the parts went on, and click on the ( I ) in the picture to read the caption!
2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit
The best way to begin any lowering job is with good starting measurements. The most accurate way to do this is to measure from the center of the wheel to the fender lip. No matter what wheel and tire combination you use this relationship remains the same. So if you install the lowering kit and upgrade your wheels and tires it won't affect your after measurement! Here we measured 22 1/4'[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_102.jpg"]Proper Foundation
The first step of course is to remove the wheels. Having the proper jacks and jack stands makes the job easier and much safer. Make sure your jack stands are rated for the weight of your vehicle and a good hydraulic floor jack and bottle jack are indispensable[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_103.jpg"]Tie Rod End
Lets get going by removing the tie rod end[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_104.jpg"]Lower Ball Joint
Loosen and remove the lower ball joint nut[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_105.jpg"]Safety
Notice the jack stand under the frame and the bottle jack ready to go![img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_106.jpg"]Separating the Lower Control Arm from the Spindle
Using the bottle jack to lift the control arm up carefully pull the spindle down and away from the lower ball joint[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_107.jpg"]Struts
Now you can loosen and remove the bolts securing the struts to the lower control arms[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_108.jpg"]Pivot Bolts
Loosen and remove the pivot bolts and your ready to pull the factory lower control arm away from the mounts[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_109.jpg"]Calmax Arms
Here are the Calmax arms ready to prepare for installation. Note: Use the installation helper to record your information[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_110.jpg"]New Nuts
These new nylon lock nuts are to be used on the pivot bolts when the arms are installed [img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_111.jpg"]Pivot Grease Points
The zerks are not installed at the factory because they have been found to be broken off during shipping. They are easy to install, simply screw them in![img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_112.jpg"]Ball Joint Grease Point
And again screw the ball joint zerk in place[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_113.jpg"]Grease It Up!
Apply grease through the zerks to make sure the passages are clear[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_114.jpg"]Inner Sleeve
Liberally apply grease to the inner sleeve and insert making sure there are no burrs. Also grease up the shoulders of the urethane bushings before you install[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_115.jpg"]Ready to install
Install the new Calmax control arms in the same mounting points as the factory arms [img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_116.jpg"]Arms in place
Using the factory bolts and the supplied locknuts secure the arms. Hand tighten only at this point [img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_117.jpg"]Mounting the Spindle
Using that trusty bottle jack maneuver the lower arm up enough to allow the spindle to receive the lower ball joint[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_118.jpg"]Strut
Tighten the lower ball joint and mount the strut in position and tighten the strut bolts[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_119.jpg"]Swaybar
Attach the swaybar to the Calmax control arm and tighten the pivot points (don't over-tighten). If your interested in High Performance swaybar systems check out the Calmax Swaybay setups for trucks and SUV's at djmfactorystore.com[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_120.jpg"]Upper Arm
We start off with removing the ABS bracket and brake clip and unplugging the ABS wire[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_121.jpg"]Pivot Points
Remove the nuts from the pivot bolts[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_122.jpg"]Alignment Cams
As you remove the pivot bolts be careful to retain and arrange the alignment cams so you can install them again in the same order and position as you removed them [img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_123.jpg"]Ball Joint
Loosen and remove the upper ball joint nut, break the taper between the ball joint and the spindle and remove the upper control arm[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_124.jpg"]Upper Control Arms
Compare the factory arm (left) with the Calmax arm. Notice the change in the ball joint angle to optimize the angle at the new ride height[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_126.jpg"]Grease It Up!
Just like the lower arm liberally apply grease to the pivot points and ball joints after you install the grease zerks![img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_127.jpg"]The Upper Arms In
Push the upper arm into place, and using the factory bolts and alignment cams in the order and position you removed them. assemble and tighten[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_128.jpg"]Upper Ball Joint
Insert the upper ball joint into spindle. [img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_129.jpg"]What are those washers for?
The hole in the ball joint stud for the cotter pin to go through requires the two washers on the nut side so you have proper alignment for the cotter pin[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_130.jpg"]Finished!
Here is what the installation looks like completed[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_131.jpg"]Lowered Measurement
Wheels back on and setting on it's own weight were getting a reading of 19". A drop of 3 1/4"[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_132.jpg"]Yikes! the Hangers Welded On
In 2007 Chevy started welding the leaf spring eye hangers to the frame of Silverado's full time. The gas tank and exhaust system make removing this bolt a giant pain in the #*#. We decided not to remove the leaf spring[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_135.jpg"]You Need Jack!
Just like the front were using the jack stands to support the frame in the rear, but we have changed from a bottle jack to a hydraulic floor jack with an extension. This baby has wheels which allow us to move the rear end around to help us install the rear kit![img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_133.jpg"]The axle
So we move back to the axle and remove the U-bolts and the spring center bolts, after we clamp the leaf spring pack[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_134.jpg"]Reverse the Pin
We install the spring center pin upside down with the pin (head) up on top[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_136.jpg"]Brake Lines
Remove the brake line and e-brake brackets from the frame so they are free to move with the rear end[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_137.jpg"]Floor Jack Advantage
Because the floor jack has wheels we can push the rear end sideways to allow us to drop the leaf spring below the axle without having to totally remove it[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_138.jpg"]Same Thing
Same for the other side[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_139.jpg"]Axle brackets
The axle brackets are located over the spring center bolts and the axle is positioned in the axle brackets [img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_140.jpg"]Pinion Angle
Now is when you want set the pinion angle. By rotating the axle you have total control over this procedure[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_141.jpg"]Rear Assembly
Here is the axle on top of the leaf springs with the top plate, U-bolts and spring plate all working together to set the pinion and secure the axle[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_142.jpg"]Bump Stop
It's time to remove the factory bump stop[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_143.jpg"]Bump Stop Bracket
We used a plasma cutter to remove the factory bump stop bracket[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_144.jpg"]New Bump Stop
Using the drill bit and thread tap provided in the lowering kit we drilled and created threads in the hole and installed the shorter urethane bump stop[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_146.jpg"]Shackle Hanger
it is necessary to remove the factory shackle hanger (or mount). The factory part is on the left and we will replace it with the new DJM bracket which inverts the shackle mount[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_147.jpg"]Your Choice
Using the DJM shackle that is longer than factory will yield either a 4 or a 5" drop. If you use the shorter factory shackle you will get a 6" drop![img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_148.jpg"]The 6
This is the 6" combination[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_149.jpg"]The last big blow
Here we are beating away the last piece of the original factory shackle mount[img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_150.jpg"]The New Mounting Bracket
The new shackle bracket is secured in place and the leaf spring attached to the shackle. That's it![img alt="" src="http://calmaxsuspension.com/wp-content/flagallery/2007-silverado-36-djm-calmax-drop-kit/thumbs/thumbs_151.jpg"]The Stance!
This is the 3/6 look. You can also do a 3/5, 4/6, or a 4/7 kit on these late model Silverado's. It's all your choice!

Is this 2007 4wd? If not is there a recommended kit for the 4wd?
Stephan,
No I am sorry to say this kit works on 2WD only. There are kits for a 4WD however. They consist of coil springs for the front and of course the same rear parts as the 2WD. We have a 2/3 or a 2/4 kit available for your 4WD. Click here to get to the Factory Store to see the kits!
DJM Tech
I have a 2007 1/2 gmc 4 door 1/2 ton with a 4/6 drop and i have a lost a lot of my turning. I saw that my tierods were at a angle that it looks like it is the problem. If that is, is there a tierod flip kit for the truck? I would like to have my turning ablity back. Other than that the kit is BADASS!! And i still tow a 16ft car trailerand it still rides great!
I have a 91 Chevy 1/2 ton SWB Reg Cab. I installed the 3″ drop springs in the front and there is no difference in ride height from stock. All I did was remove the stock and install the physically shorter spring. Did I do something wrong? Will the springs settle the 3″ they were supposed to drop?
Aaron,
If you install 3″ drop springs you should see some significant drop. There can be many reasons why you might not get a full 3″ drop but you should see something. Lets begin at the part, can you give me a part number from the springs? You may not actually have what you think. Also with a 3″ drop you would need to install a shorter shock absorber (the stock lenght shock will restrict suspension travel). On your 91 Chevy you need to be careful when you mount the spring to not bend the little tabs in the upper spring seat. It is very easy to bend one or more over which will not allow the spring to seat all the way, essentially making the spring longer. Plus your 91 Chevy may have over the last 20 years settled because of use and time. Any or all of these factors can influence the ride height but as I said you should see some drop. Let me know what the part numbers are and we will go from there!
DJM Tech
I recently purchased a a DJM flip kit part 3 RK2507-7 . I had a blow out on my tires before I received my order so I purchased new tires . The tires that were on my truck were 2654022 and I had a 10 inch gap between the tire tread and the fender well . I purchased a set of 3054522 to replace the bad tires and now I have a 8 inch gap . I was wondering if I could still use this kit or maybe use parts of it to lower my truck or do I need to purchase another kit? Thanks Charles
I have a 2007 Silverado regular cab V8 do I have to C-Notch the frame with the 7″ drop? Also do I need different shocks for it. And if I do a 4″ drop in the front do I need different shocks for that too?
i have a 2011 chevy do yall have 4 inch drop leaf springs for it
i have an 08 silverado. i had installed a 3-6 kit about a year ago. i now have a problem with the front end of the suspension “creeking” and “grinding” real bad going over bumps or pulling out of drive thru’s. what could this possibly be and what do i do to stop it? i also will put that i do baby this truck and have no idea how this has came along…
Kyle,
Sounds like you need a little lubrication! The “creeking and grinding” is probably both dry ball joints and dry pivot bushings. Ball joints that go dry make awful grinding and popping sounds, so get some grease in there and it will become quiet. The pivot bushings are made from urethane, a great durable tuff material that squeaks to high heaven when its dry, or overtightened! I would recommend a teflon grease or “neverseeze” as a good lubricant for the pivot bushings and be-careful not to over tighten them. Anything past snug where there is no slop or lateral movement is to much. Also be sure to use “locktite” on the bolt and nut so you don’t have to worry you haven’t tightened the nut enough!
DJM Tech
i do lube them..every oil change lol that is why im lost on whats going on…today i looked and the boot looks to be damaged on the ball joint..idk how that happended though..since i only drive the truck on good roads
Kyle,
Well if the pivots and ball joints are all lubed up there really isn’t a good reason you have that type of noise. If you have a damaged ball joint boot maybe that ball joint is dry. Ball joints can make some weird awful sounds when they are to dry. The only other factor that comes to mind is temperature, cold equals noise. Check that ball joint!
DJM Tech