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I have a 1995 GMC witha 4/6 drop installed, which includes droped spindles,coils and a flip kit and c notch. I have lost a lot of my turning radius, it seems that the tierods are in the way, I have stock wheels and tires. Is there a part that i need to get to fix my problem? or do I have to get bigger wheels and tires? or smaller wheels and tires?
(1969, C-10, 1/2 ton)
I have two problems with my control arms;
The supplied grease fittings fit in the control arms, but do not fit in the ball joints. Are the ball joint grease fittings a different size? On top of that, I was shorted one grease fitting.
The second problem is the bump stop bolts will not tighten, the studs in the bumpstop turm not allowing the bolts to tighten. I also cannot get the bolts to loosen in order to remove the bumpstops. So now they are loose with about 1/4″ space.
Can you advise me on how to handle these problems?
Thank You
Dan,
The grease fitting we supply for the arms have 1/4X28 dia. and thread pitch. The ball joints we buy form ball joint guys and some of them probably have metric grease fittings. My best guess would be 6mm x 1.0 for the ball joints. Now they should have been on the kit and we apologize if they were not and let me know if you are unable to find the proper grease fitting!
DJM Tech
I bought your 67-70 Chevy c-10 lower control arms. The stud for the shocks are way too big to fit the stock shocks, do I have to buy djm front shocks to go with the lcas? The instructions said I would be able to use my stock shocks, but the shock stud will not fit. Please advise.
Dan,
The shock studs we use on our C-10 arms are bought from GM. They of course change things without telling us but I think probably it is the sleeves installed in your shocks are different for some reason. You can maybe push them out and the bushings will fit over the stud. Or I can send you some sleeves to try, (pushing the steel sleeve out of your shocks normally works in this situation)! Let us know how you make out.
DJM Tech
i have a 98 ranger with djm uppers and lowers with 2″ drop springs…wont stay lined up and eats tires..i have 20″ alba big berthas so tires aint cheap. all ball joints have been replaced and caster/camber kit installed…also passenger side sits appx. 1 to 1.5 inches higher…i want to bag it but am worried abt further problems..can you send info and possibly pics of install..i dont want to go back to factory height but will if needed..can i use factory uppers with djm lowers and visa versa..help please
Cameron,
With the part you have installed you should not have negative camber, and they alignment should not change on you. Also you should be almost level from side to side, not a 1.5″ different. So there something going on with your Ranger. Can you be more specific about what you have done and how you did it? we will try to get you figured out !!
DJM Tech
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I bought a ’91 S-10 with a V8 conversion that has already been dropped but there’s only about 1″ of suspension travel in the front before it hits the bump stops.
It looks like the A-arms are a good way to go but what springs do you recomment? Or would the spindles be a better bet with the springs that are in the truck now?
Thanks,
Al,
Without knowing what spring is in the front end you might start there. You need more than 1″ inch of travel for a good ride and your coil spring is the biggest contributor to suspension travel. Because your S-10 now has a V-8 all of our calculations concerning ride height are not accurate. For example our 2″ coil spring would give you a 2″ drop with the original 4-cyl engine but might provide a 3″ drop with the additional weight of the V-8. You might have to experiment to find the best coil spring for ride quality and then you can add our spindle for a 2″ additional drop or our Calmax control arm for a additional 3 inches of drop. First get good travel back with a proper coil spring! Let us know what you do!!
DJM Tech