The Garage is where you share your project story with other enthusiasts! Think of it like a magazine article on your truck. If it’s a complete restoration, tell us where you found it, what condition it was in, what it did in life before it found you. Or your building the latest brand new truck and had a hard time finding parts, we all can benefit from what you’ve learned. You can have a “step by step” story where we update your progress as you go and you can get help with problems or see ideas offered by other enthusiasts, or a complete start to finish story. It’s all about you, what you did, why you did it and what are you doing know!
See ya in
The Garage
I have a 1995 GMC witha 4/6 drop installed, which includes droped spindles,coils and a flip kit and c notch. I have lost a lot of my turning radius, it seems that the tierods are in the way, I have stock wheels and tires. Is there a part that i need to get to fix my problem? or do I have to get bigger wheels and tires? or smaller wheels and tires?
(1969, C-10, 1/2 ton)
I have two problems with my control arms;
The supplied grease fittings fit in the control arms, but do not fit in the ball joints. Are the ball joint grease fittings a different size? On top of that, I was shorted one grease fitting.
The second problem is the bump stop bolts will not tighten, the studs in the bumpstop turm not allowing the bolts to tighten. I also cannot get the bolts to loosen in order to remove the bumpstops. So now they are loose with about 1/4″ space.
Can you advise me on how to handle these problems?
Thank You
Dan,
The grease fitting we supply for the arms have 1/4X28 dia. and thread pitch. The ball joints we buy form ball joint guys and some of them probably have metric grease fittings. My best guess would be 6mm x 1.0 for the ball joints. Now they should have been on the kit and we apologize if they were not and let me know if you are unable to find the proper grease fitting!
DJM Tech
I bought your 67-70 Chevy c-10 lower control arms. The stud for the shocks are way too big to fit the stock shocks, do I have to buy djm front shocks to go with the lcas? The instructions said I would be able to use my stock shocks, but the shock stud will not fit. Please advise.
Dan,
The shock studs we use on our C-10 arms are bought from GM. They of course change things without telling us but I think probably it is the sleeves installed in your shocks are different for some reason. You can maybe push them out and the bushings will fit over the stud. Or I can send you some sleeves to try, (pushing the steel sleeve out of your shocks normally works in this situation)! Let us know how you make out.
DJM Tech
i have a 98 ranger with djm uppers and lowers with 2″ drop springs…wont stay lined up and eats tires..i have 20″ alba big berthas so tires aint cheap. all ball joints have been replaced and caster/camber kit installed…also passenger side sits appx. 1 to 1.5 inches higher…i want to bag it but am worried abt further problems..can you send info and possibly pics of install..i dont want to go back to factory height but will if needed..can i use factory uppers with djm lowers and visa versa..help please
Cameron,
With the part you have installed you should not have negative camber, and they alignment should not change on you. Also you should be almost level from side to side, not a 1.5″ different. So there something going on with your Ranger. Can you be more specific about what you have done and how you did it? we will try to get you figured out !!
DJM Tech
“
I bought a ’91 S-10 with a V8 conversion that has already been dropped but there’s only about 1″ of suspension travel in the front before it hits the bump stops.
It looks like the A-arms are a good way to go but what springs do you recomment? Or would the spindles be a better bet with the springs that are in the truck now?
Thanks,
Al,
Without knowing what spring is in the front end you might start there. You need more than 1″ inch of travel for a good ride and your coil spring is the biggest contributor to suspension travel. Because your S-10 now has a V-8 all of our calculations concerning ride height are not accurate. For example our 2″ coil spring would give you a 2″ drop with the original 4-cyl engine but might provide a 3″ drop with the additional weight of the V-8. You might have to experiment to find the best coil spring for ride quality and then you can add our spindle for a 2″ additional drop or our Calmax control arm for a additional 3 inches of drop. First get good travel back with a proper coil spring! Let us know what you do!!
DJM Tech
I have a 95 chevy silverado and it bounces in the rear. my 95 has been lowered in the front but I dont think its been altered in the rear. please help…
Katrina,
There are a lot of reasons which could cause your rear end to bounce (worn shocks, over tightened shackles, etc.), the front being lowered and not the rear might contribute so can you send us a picture of whats going on under your truck or a shot of the stance? Might help to diagnose whats going on !!
Mark
i bought lower control arms for a f150 2005, my question is do i need special tools to install
Carlos,
You won’t need any “specialty tools”, just regular automotive type shop tools!
Mark
i recently bought a ’92 f150 reg short bed. and was wondering if you have any local dealers/installers in the marietta/atlanta area? i wanna lower the rear end to give it a more aggressive stance. what do you recommend?
Wayne,
I would contact “Summit Racing”. They have a big warehouse and retail store in the Atlanta area, just Google them!
Mark
We have a 1972 Chevy Suburban 2wd. Front coils and discs,rear coils.Will the DJM2356-3/4 kit work for us? Also, is there anything other than new shocks that need to be installed with the kit, such as a rear “C”notch? Thanks
Matt,
The Calmax Control Arms will work if you have a disc brake front end and your talking about a 5 lug wheel. The rear coil spring is designed for the C-10 pick up rear end and were not sure what would happen with the Suburban platform. My guess is you would get a little more than a 4″ drop. It would be very interesting to find out, so if you would like to experiment with your Suburban I will work with you to see how we can get you what you want, please let me know!!
Mark
I have a 1994 Ford Ranger that I am looking to lower! I am confused about what the kit all comes with because every place I look each kit is different online. My coil springs have been cut so I know I have to replace them. But not sure if I have to get lowering springs also or need to go back to stock springs to lower it properly and if I need to replace the leaf springs to lowerings leaf springs also. I need some advice what needs to been done so I can order the proper parts that I actually need to lower my truck right and to ride smoothly with no problems. This is the first I have ever done this!! Thanks John
John,
You ask great questions and many of them can be answered at http://www.djmsuspension.com! Basically because of alignment issues you need to run your factory spring (uncut)and use the “Dreambeams” to get a fully alignable 3″ drop in the front. In the rear your best bet is to use the factory leaf and flip the rear axle to the top of the leaf spring. Lowered leaf springs lower great but just don’t ride good which is why we never released one!
Good luck, let us know how you do!!
Mark
I’m working on a 2001 Chevrolet Tahoe 4X4. The rear end sets about 5 inches higher than the front does. I see you sell ALL the parts I’ll need to lower the rear 4 inches. Four inch Springs,spring installation kit shocks and sway bar links. My question is how much will this setup affect my ride quality. Oh yea I am running 265/60-R18 tires and wheels all round that ride smooth and quiet now and will keep this setup after the lowering project is complete. Thanks for your help…POP
POP,
Thanks for your question, dropping 4WD’s is a little trickier and you should error on the conservative side. Having said that, we have found from feedback and testing the 3″ rear coil spring setup rides enormously better than the 4″ spring on the 2WD platforms. This is especially true when you have people in the back seat! Here is a link to our parts page that applies to your Tahoe. Good luck and send us some pictures fo your project!
Mark
I have a 1998 Ranger, and was wondering if the 4″ rear drop from the 97-earlier would work? My Ranger has the same 7.5″ axle, and so much as I know, the back half of the Rangers were mostly unchanged from 93-late 00′s.
Dean,
Yes we use the same parts for all ranger rear ends except the 2011 with a disc brake setup! Use part number FK3001-4 Good Luck!!
Mark
Quick question…I am looking to lower my 2012 Silverado, which is a 2WD, regular cab, V6. I am most interested in your 4/6 drop, but am curious about the front dimensions. Other manufacturers claim that using the coil to lower is not affective with a V6 truck, that the front will sit higher than the rear. Since your kit uses controls arms to achieve the drop, will the stance be correct, even with a V6 engine?
JG,
You are thinking correct! Because were not changing the coil spring you will get the full drop even with the V-6. The only reason you wouldn’t with the coil is because of the weight difference between the 6 and 8 cylinder engines. Thanks for your question!
Mark
Thank you…the rear drop of 6″ is achieved without a c-notch or other “major” mods correct? Do you have any options to make the drop a 4/7, without major mods, to level it out a bit more?
JG,
The 6″ rear drop is done by “flipping” the rear axle from below the leaf spring to the top of the leaf spring. And you are correct about not needing a “c-notch” to do this. If you want to go 4/7 just use the 4″ front Calmax Control arm set instead of the 3″ and if you have the 6″ rear kit it can be a 7″ drop kit by not installing all of the 6″ brackets!
Mark
What’s up….I have a 2003 2wd F150 regular cab long-bed with 4.2 v6. Here’s what I’ve done to it so far: I’ve got Suspension-Max 3″ drop coil springs with street perfomance Beltech shocks and a homemade rear flip-kit with Gabriel air-shocks that gives about 4 to 5 inch drop in the rear. Now, the front sits higher with the 3″ springs than before with the cut factory springs, maybe because it’s a v6, I dunno. After a couple months of driving, the truck still doesn’t sit the way I want it, so here’s my question. Would 2″ drop control arms combined with the 3″ coils be a bad idea? I’m running stock tire sizes and not really into big blingin wheels which is why I’m looking at control arms instead of spindles. I can get an extra inch out of the rear without c-notching but I just have concerns for the front. I don’t think the ride would get any harsher with the drop control arms and stock wheels but I am worried about tire rubbing and so forth. Sorry for the long email but I try to give as much info that is needed for my question on combination of 2″ drop control arms and 3″ drop coils that looks as if I only got 2″ outta them.
Thanks
Zach,
We build a 4″ front drop kit that combines a set of 2″ coil springs with a 2″ Calmax lower control arm and a Calmax upper control arm.The lower arm and the coil give you the 4″ drop while the upper arms provides enough alignment adjustment to allow you to set the alignment to factory numbers and the upper arms set the upper ball joint angle to provide the maximum range of motion. What exactly will happen with your 3″ springs we cannot know. We did not build a 3″ coil spring because alignment to factory specs was nearly impossible. Because you have a V-6 (lighter weight) you may be closer to a 2″ drop than you think! Regarding factory wheels and tires, most of the R&D we do involves factory wheel and tires and a general rule for interference is not deviating from the overall factory wheel and tire diameter.
Mark
Thanks for the feedback, Mark. I apologize for the second email, I wasn’t sure if you received the first one and I am a little impatient when it comes to things like this. I got to say, the other day I lined my truck up with another just like mine, but with stock suspension. I was flabbergasted cuz my truck was only an inch shorter than the other but the other truck is rollin on shorter tires than mine. I prolly will get 235 size tires since the tires I have are worn out and litte too tall. Afterwards, I may get the control arms then but I want to see how the truck sits with the new and shorter tires. It may drop it down a little but I really wanna shorten the gap between the tires and fenders. So until then, we’ll see. I got what I needed to know and I guess the 3″ coils will work with the drop control arms cuz the front end is lighter.
Thanks again
Zach,
Your welcome, when you go to the smaller tire size you will increase the gap between your tire and the fender so you may still be frustrated with the look! Good luck with your F150 project and send us some pictures!
Mark
Hi
i have a 2004 toyota sequoia i need to lower,cant find a thing to get started.need help please
Lee,
We don’t make anything for the Sequoia either, sorry. I wish I could point you to someone who make a aftermarket suspension kit for your Sequoia but I can’t. Wish we could be more help for you. Good Luck with your search!
Mark
I am lowering a 1994 2wd F150 short bed. Other than your 3/5 kit do you recommend I purchase any other parts to complete the upgrade? What anti-sway bar kit would you recommend? I plan on going to 20in. wheels. Thanks for the help.
Brian,
The 3/5 kit will give you all the suspension parts you will need to lower your F150. I will recommend new shocks because you have lowered the truck and to optimize performance and ride quality the proper length shocks are important. In addition to length, having shocks that are valved with lowered truck in mind also helps ride quality and performance. There are many fine shock absorbers on the market and DJM also manufactures our own line “Calmax SuperShox”. It is important of course to have the correct length, for the front you want a 14″ shock fully extended and the rear a 19″ shock fully extended. You can find all of these parts by clicking here
We don’t make swaybars for this application but if you can find them it would probably help your high performance handling. Were are splitting some fine hair here but a good swaybar set can really make your truck behave properly!
Thanks for your question!
Mark
I just bought a 1957 chevy p/u and would like to lower it 3inches in the front and 2 inches in rear. I can take care of the rear with blocks on the axle but the front has a I-beam axle with drum brakes and leaf springs. What would you recomend?
Tom,
We don’t have any parts or expertise regarding your 57. There are however many choices for you, there are Corvette suspensions modified to fit a 57, as well as high quality air ride kits built specifically for your 57 Chevy! If you want only a couple of inches out of the front may be you could have the front leaf springs “set down” by a professional leaf spring company. You would have to already determined you won’t have a clearance or travel issues with a lowered leaf spring set up! Good luck, let us know what you do and send a picture!!
Mark
I have a 2006 chevy 1500 2WD. I put a 4/6 drop kit on about 4 years ago. The right side lower ball joint boot has a tear in it. The ball joint itself is fine, but the grease that comes out of the tear tends to make a mess. Can i buy a replacement ball joint at a parts house or does DJM offer replacements.
Preston,
You can get a new ball joint from us here or use MOOG part number 6541 and buy from a local NAPA store or any auto parts store that carry ball joints!
Mark
buen dia, tengo una s10 1993, quiero saber lo que ocupo para bajarla 4″ de atras y 3″ adelante, cual es el kit completo, y cuanto cuesta, gracias.
Nelson,
Buenos Dias, El kit complete te sara a $282.14 las partes son CA2331L-3 adelante, LB4LK-atras
Graicias
I have a 2005 ford f-150 i just lowered the front end using the lower lowering a arms , and i sent the truck to be aligned n now the tires are wearing on the inside tread there smooth on the inside now , they were brand new. so i was wondering what else could be done and if you have heard of this before
thank you
Bill,
You should not have any issues with alignment using the lowering control arms. Check to make sure the alignment is correct, it can’t be right and you experience abnormal tire wear. Give us a call if you want to help figure out what is going on with your alignment. 800-237-6748 ask for tech!
Mark
I’ve got a 04 Ram 1500 v6 sitting on 22′s, and I’m looking into your 3/5 kit. I’ve done some measurements on my vehicle and I think I’ll need something a little more radical. I saw that I could also install the 2″ springs in the front and get a total of a possible 5″. Now I’ve been reading a few articles on your site, and for the rear the 5″ is achieved by lifting shackles. If I were to not use the supplied shackles would I encounter any clearance problems? I’m also curious about which shocks to purchase. Thanks!
Zack,
We did not intend for the arms and coils to be used together on your Ram. They of course will fit but you may have some negative camber issues. On the rear if you don’t use the longer shackles you will get 6+ inches of drop. Your ram will be very low, we have never installed that combination of parts here so we can’t be sure about clearance but if you are careful and check clearance as you go it will help eliminate “suprises”! Send us some pictures of your super low Ram!!
Mark
I have a 1996 chevy c1500 and i just bought and installed you 3″ control arms and 4″ shackle and hanger. but the rear sits high still, i have a roll pan and no room for a spare tire, is their any thing i can do with out changing the whole setup.
Miguel,
I am sorry to report to you there is no easy way to drop the rear more. What you need to do is put the factory hangers and shackles back on and “flip” the rear end and use a short shackle to net out 5″. From there you can choose 5, 6 or 7 inches of drop by changing shackles. Hope this helps you out!
MArk
I just wanted you guys to know this was my 1st time installing one of your kits it was the best kit I have ever installed. It was a 3-5 drop for a 2003 Tahoe. I removede the bump stops completely and the rest of the kit installed like a dream. I have installed. I have installed Bell Tech & McGaughy’s kits in the past but now I’m a lifer with you guys. By the way the guy that said that this kit kill the ride on Tahoe must have done something wrong when he installed it. the ride on my Tahoe is firm but not harsh and it DOESN’T handle like a DUMP TRUCK anymore. Thanks, Guys Rick
Rick,
Thanks for the compliments, we try very hard to build quality parts that fit and work as advertised. Send us a picture of your lowered Tahoe!
Mark
Hi I have a 1992 Chevy SIlverado 1500, V8 Standard Cab and wanted to lower it 4/6. What kit would come complete and should I use? Will I need to also buy new shocks? Is it better to use spindles and coils or lower control arms and coils for the front?
PLease give me an idea of what’s best to use, and what kit I can but and how much it would cost me.
Jerry,
If you are going to use 15″ wheels control arms are the way to go, if you run bigger wheels it really doesn’t matter that much if you use control arms or spindles in your set up. The top of the line kit would be the DJM2555-4/6 and add CA2555U upper control arms to the kit. This would provide the best ability to align your front end while optimizing the upper ball joint angle and give you the most amount of travel (best ride). Having said that you really can’t go wrong if you choose the DJM2056-4/6 kit (with spindles). Let us know which way you go!
Mark
Hey i just bought a ’99 chevy 2 door, 2wd and im looking to lower it to lower the center of gravity and get a stiffer ride. Ive got an ls1 on the stand ready to go in and im not wanting to drag frame but to lower it and get a more ‘race car’ handling to it. im wanting to put 20″ wheels on it and thinkin about using a 2/4 drop but not sure if it will give me what i want. Would appreciate some input. thanks
Brian,
What a great project! You can do almost anything you want suspension wise. A 2/4 kit would be fine, I would recommend using control arms rather than springs because you still get the full suspension travel with the arms and you lose travel with springs. You could also do a 3/4 or even a 4/6! I drove our 99 (we used it for prototyping) with a 4/6 kit for a couple of years without worries. I didn’t have a LS1 only a chip and a better exhaust but the 4/6 kit was no problem for everyday driving! In fact with helper airbags and an on-board compressor I hauled a 450lb table saw to my home shop from a trade show with guys scratching there heads after they loaded it in the bed and I just drove off! We now have a swaybar set that we didn’t have then you might consider, it is a 1.5″ tubular front bar and a 1″ rear bar and the set will dramatically improve the handling. With your LS1 the bars might be help! Click here to see the kits and individual parts for the 99-06 Silverado, and let us know what you end up doing! Maybe a picture as well!!
Mark
I recently bought drop spindles for an 86 C-10 with the 1.25in rotors. I have gone to both Advanced Auto, Auto Zone and Pep Boys trying to find an inner wheel bearing that will seat on the spindle but no luck. The outter bearing seats perfectly but the inners will not go onto the seat. After “mic-ing” them I found that the spindles were .005in too small for the bearings. In my experience I have never had to press on or heat up a wheel bearing for it to fit on applications such as these. Can you offer some assistance as to what I need to do? I have thought of having the spindles machined down to fit the bearings. Again, I have been thru the full GM inventory at all the major auto parts stores.
Matt,
You contacted us @ tech@djmsuspension.com and received the following “The measurement on the inner barring is 1.374″. Our process is that every part is inspected but it’s the responsibility of a person to do it so you know how that is. We stand behind our product and will make it correct in any case. As an installer you can take some emery cloth ( the kind they use for copper pipe it’s about 1 1/2″ wide and comes in a roll) you should use the roughest you can find 60 is fine and just sand a bit .005 come pretty quick. Don’t worry about the warranty it will always be good if you want to try it.”
This is good advise for these types of situations, thanks for your question it will help not just you but everyone who reads your question!!
Here’s what Matt did,
I just stopped by the auto parts store and grabbed some Emory cloth. After about 1 min of work it slipped on perfectly. Thanks for your help. You will always have high marks in my book!
Thanks Matt!!
Mark
I have a 1993 Ford F-150 Supercab 2wd with the 4.9 l6. I am interested in dropping the truck 2″ in front & back. Do you recommend the dream beams that will give me a 3″ drop or can I just replace the coil springs. This will be a daily driver and I want to keep the best ride quality. Also do I need to replace the shocks or a camber kit or anything else to keep the wear and tear on the other parts to as normal a rate as possible. Planned on using the 2″ shackles in back to drop that.
Thanks for any suggestions and help,
Scott
Scott,
If you try to lower your F150 with coil springs you will have negative camber problems which you won’t be able to adjust out. So using the beams for a 3″ drop is the best solution for you! The ride doesn’t change because you still have the factory spring, with full factory suspension travel and you can use a factory length shock as well! Then on the rear you can use that shackle kit for 2 inches of drop and if you want a little more drop you can also install brackets (hangers) on the front end of the leaf spring for an additional 2″ of drop. The hanger shackle combo can give you a total of 4″ or 3″ if you change mounting holes on the shackle. At a 4″ drop (in the rear) I would recommend running a shorter shock absorber. Let us know what you choose and maybe send a picture!!
Mark
Thanks for the info, I believe I’ll start with the 3″ front & 2″ rear and see how that works. I will send some pictures when finished.
Thanks again!
Scott
I have a 1985 ranger with a beefy 351w and a ladder bar set up in the rear. I was looking to lower the truck I can lower the back any and all I want with the ladder bars.What I would like to know is if I use a set of dream beams with 3″ drop will have any problem with turn radius on the front tires and if so what will I have to do and if the DB3002-3 beams is what I need
Thanks John
John,
The Dreambeams shouldn’t cause any problems with turning radius. In fact you should see a three inch drop from where you set now even with the 351 in your engine well. You Ranger sounds like a monster, send us some pictures!!
Mark
hello i have an 04 sierra 2500 2wd and plan on doing the 6/8 drop and want to run 24s with a 275/30zr24 tire so my question is what offset will i need the wheels to be so there is no rubbing and fits perfect? thanks
Nick,
You might think that since we develop from scratch, lowering kits we would know everything about it. This is true, mostly, and where it is true is with the wheel and tire package on the vehicle we prototyped and any other vehicle we see. What this means is as much as I would like to tell you “no problem” regarding your wheel and tire combo we have not seen and tested, I just can’t be sure. Now, I’m not ducking the question, rather I want your to know as much as possible before you lay down your hard earned dollars! Here’s the rule that rings true – if you don’t deviate from the factory overall wheel and tire height and offset then any wheel and tire combo will work! 99% of the time we prototype around factory wheels and tires. Your best resource might be a local shop that sells and installs lowering kits and wheel and tire packages, they might have specific expertise for you. My best guess is you are fine but if I told you that and your had an issue you would suffer because I guessed wrong. Good luck and let me know what you decide!!
Mark
I see you carry a lowering kit for a Dodge Durango 2WD. Do you have any suggestions where I can find a kit for a 2000 Durango 4×4?
Rapier,
I spent some time asking around for you but was not able to find any 4WD kits. We used to make a kit over 10 years ago which required getting your steering knuckles and machining them to adapt new ball joints amongst other things, it was very expensive and was discontinued a long time ago. I am sorry to report there is nothing left of that program and no one I could find would even consider it. Good luck, maybe there is someone who can do it for you but it would probably be custom work.
Mark
i have a 1964 c-10 long bed pick up truck with rear leaf springs what kit would you put on my truck oh and i dont wanna use drop spindles due to having to convert to disc brakes and not being able to use the stock rims
Brent,
On the front you should use our Calmax lower control arms, you get a 3″ drop and new ball joints, urethane bushings, mounting shaft and bump stops! If you keep your stock coil you can use stock lenght shocks. On the rear you need to check the width of your leaf spring, it is probably 2.25″ and we have a 5″ rear flip kit that will work great, or if you have a 2.5″ wide rear leaf you have a 4″ hanger/shackle kit or a 5″ flip kit to choose from. All these products are available by clicking http://djmsuspension.com/applications/chevroletgmc/c-w-rear-leaf-spring/! Let us know what you do and maybe send some pictures!!
Mark
Hi I was browsing through and been researching on how to lower my 1999 Chevy Silverado 2500 4×4.
The look I am trying to get is almost a flush drop if you have any more detailed info that would be great..
Thanks
Chao
Chao,
All the products we make for your platform unfortunately are for the 2WD models. Lowering products for your 2500 are very hard to find. You can drop the front maybe about an inch or so by adjusting your torsion bar keys but be very conservative, (keep in alignment) and the rear part should be the same as a 2WD. So maybe you could get a 1/3 or 2/3 or 4. You will have to experiment around and see whats works for you!Let us know what you end up doing!
Mark
Hi i have a 2004 Dodge Dakota 2wd with the 4.7 liter V8. I have been tossing the idea of lowering it. I have factory 16 inch rims and tires on it now. I measured the gap between the splash guard on the front fender to the top of the tire and it read a 5 inch gap. I also did the same in the rear and got a 7 inch reading. I’m wanting to do a 3/5 drop on it. I talked to my local alignment guy and he suggested I use spindles instead of springs so it would align better and I would keep my ride quality. But I looked everywhere and I can’t find any. So could i use yall’s control arms and springs and get 3 inchs and proper alignment. Also can I use blocks in the back to acheive the 5 inch drop as well?
Patrick,
Our listings seem to stop at 2002 for the Dakota, I think this is a mistake but I don’t have a truck here to test. If we presume that the Dakota’s from 97-04 are the same (which is what Edmunds thinks) Then you are correct that are Calmax Control Arms will work and all the rear kits including the 5″ rear hanger and Shackle kit would also work. Click here to see those kits! I really think the catalog listing of 97-02 is a typo! Keep me in touch!
Mark
I have a 2008 Saturn Outlook Which is the same platform as the GMC Acadia and
the Chevrolet Traverse. I would like to drop it 3″ in the front and 4″ in the rear. Are there any components avalable or can be ordered to accomplish this?
It is AWD if that makes any differance. Are there differant lenght front Struts
with the same mounts? I see you offer components for the Astro Van and it has a
similar style front suspension. Hope you can help.
Thanks for your time
Bill
Bill,
I am sorry to say we have no products for the Outlook/Acadia/Traverse platform. I am thinking you might find a spring kit from Eibach, or maybe Progress Automotive (more car applications). Hope you have good luck!
Mark
Well my question is would a drop kit from an 07 f150 fit on a 10 f150
Noe,
Unfortunately Noe, no the 07 kit will not fit the 2010 F150. It is the control arms that are different, the rear kit will work! Let me know if we can help more!!
Mark
Hi, What experience do you have lowering the 2001 f350 4×4? want to get an idea of what i’m up against before i buy.
Thanks
Ken,
I am sorry to report that our F350 lowering kits only work on 2WD! You join a expanding list of curious 4WD Super Duty guy’s who want to lower their rigs. At this time I don’t know of anyone who is making anything to lower the 4WD Super Duties. Lowering a 4WD I Beam front end is a complicated thing beware of anyone who claims to have a kit, check them out very carefully!! If you find a kit please let me know who makes it! Good Luck
Mark
I have an ’07 Silverado on 24′s and I’m looking to buy the 4/7 drop. Will the wheels and tires fit without rubbing and also is that the complete kit no c-notch? I would also like to know if I would need the Calmax SuperShox for ride quality or will the stock shocks work?
Ben
I just can’t tell you for sure if your 24″ wheel and tire combo won’t rub with our 4/7 kit. There are just too many combinations out there for us to keep up with! The rule of thumb is if you do not exceed the factory overall diameter of the wheel and tires and don’t change the offset then you can do anything you want. If you end up a little bigger on your overall diameter you will be the best judge (we have the 4/7 kit on our test truck with the factory wheels and tires and have no problems) to determine if you might have a issue. You are correct there is no “c-notch” with the kit (example our test truck) and the Calmax shocks are made to work directly with the rear kit. If you feel good about the measurement of your 24″ wheel and tire diameter then I think you are good to go!! Let me know what you do and maybe send some pictures. Here’s a link to the parts!
Mark
Ive got a 2002 dodge quadcab v8. i got the kit with front coils and rear flip fit from yall. Ive install the flip kit and still get vibration at high speeds.I though this kit would eleminate the vibration. I did everything the instructions said to do. Is there something else iam missing. Is there a more detail on how to align the pinion angle. Thanks for any help you can give.
Antonio,
If your sure the vibration is not coming from a wheel then try adjusting the pinon angle with your flip kit. Your flip brackets allow you to set your pinon angle to almost anything you want. If you don’t understand how to do this call our tech line at 310-538-1583 x-16 (Mike) Let me know if you need anymore help!
Mark
I have a 2012 dodge 3500 2wd I am trying to lower the rear about 2in. Do y’all offer anything for this or does anyone has anything available to do this?
Jack,
At this time we don’t have any parts that will work on your rig. Sorry about this, you could try Bell Tech, or Ground Force to see if they have anything for your 2012! Let me know what you find out!!
Mark
Hey guys, loving my DJM 4/7 kit I installed on my 2012 Silverado! I guess I’ve got the bug now, because I want to go lower! I am planning to do a tire and wheel upgrade, but want to do a little more drop still. I already have the DJM 4/7 kit using control arms in front, and the axle flip in the back. I want another 2″ drop in the front, and 2″-3″ in the rear. Can you tell me what my best option is to acheive this? Truck is a 2012 Silverado, 2wd, regular cab, short bed, V6 engine. THANKS!
JG,
Thumbs up on your enthusiasm, love that you chose our kit! Going lower than the 4/7 gets you in EXPERIMENTAL territory. Don’t have any specific advise on how to go lower (we would have made a kit already) but I can advise you to not combine drop spindles with drop control arms (these parts work great by themselves but cause a lot of problems when combined), and look out for suspension travel and alignment. These two things kill your ride quality and your tires so consider carefully how you drop even more! Tell us what you do and how it works, or send us images and your story and you can be in “The Garage”
Mark
Hey guys,
I ordered a pair of drop shackles for my stock 1994 f-150. Are there any other parts I would need to go along with them? Also, is there a general maximum tire height with this? I am wanting a new set of wide tires. what would be a good tire size to go with?
Landon,
The rear leaf spring shackles is all you need to drop the rear either 1″or 2″ depending on the hole that you mount with. With the 2″ drop I wouldn’t think you have to worry to much about tire size, but watch the width is not so wide that your fender will make contact if you hit a big bump! Good luck and send a picture.
Mark
I have installed a 2/3 lowering kit on my 2004 Ford Ranger. Since the instalation I have had a High speed (above 45 mph) wheel hop problem on the front end. If the road is smooth it drives fine, but when I hit a bump the wheels hop and at times the front of the truck will jump to one side or the other. I have had three sets of wheels and tires on the truck ranging from the original 15″ wheels to 16″ steel wheels with no change. Any suggestions?
Nick,
This sounds like it may be worn radius arm bushings. These bushing do wear especially on the passenger side because of exhaust heat. Check those and if that’s not the problem let me know!
Mark
hey guys i have an 86 GMC 1500 im looking to lower it 4 or 5 inches in the front and 6 in the rear can you guys help me out?? if you can how much is shipping to canada??
Jeremy,
The big drop on your 86 is a 5/5, 5″ front & 5″ rear! Click here to see your choices. I would need your exact address (w/postal code) to figure the ups charge, it is heavy stuff and costs abit to move around! Let us know what you do!!
Mark
I have a 1989 C1500 and I am wanting a 3/5 drop, what would be the best most budget friendly way to do so? I was thinking 3 Control Arm and flip the axle in rear and use the shorty schakles, but I guess my question would be would I have to C-notch the frame?
Will,
The choices you have made are correct (parts wise). While one could argue that you don’t absolutely need to c-notch the frame I will tell you your ride will be crappy if you don’t c-notch. The 88-98 frame is flat over the axle (no relief for travel) and when you lower it more than 4″ your on your bumpstops all the time! Let me know what you end up doing!
Mark
well tell me what you suggest 3/4 or 3/5
Will,
Great question, it all depends on your personal taste and the way you want your truck to look. The 3/5 kit will give you a close to level look while the 3/4 will probably produce a slight rake to the front! Both are very good looks and it simply depends on what turns you on!! What to do you think?
Mark
If I go with the 3/4 using the control arms can i still run my factory 15″ wheels or will there be problems
Will,
That’s the beauty of the control arms on the 88-98 Chevy, they don’t cause any problems with the wheels or alignment or ride quality! And you get a 3″ drop by buying only one part. The 3/4 drop is a good choice for all around driving and performance. Let us know what you decide!
Mark
I think just one more queston I plan on using The lower control arm with the 3/4 drop, but is is okay to us the upper with this kit as well and not have any problems
Will,
You can keep the factory upper control arms with the 3″ Calmax arms, no problem! Just resist the temptation to add a lowered coil to the 3″ arms, they were designed to work with the factory coil and you might have alignment issues if you try that!
Mark
I want to lower a 1990 Chevy G20 full sized van. Any help/advice you will offer will be greatly appreciated.
Mike,
The C1500 parts will work on the front just like a pick up(if you have a 5 lug wheel), but the rear of your van is different than a pick up. I don’t have any parts that will bolt up to the van platform and I don’t know of any “off the shelf” kits which will work. You can have a local shop maybe help you with the rear, check around to see if any of the local guy’s have dropped a full sized van!
Mark
i have 1990 chevy silverado c1500 standard cab swb several years back droped rear app 2in to level
truck now iam thinking of droping the front 2in was thinking drop spindle then found there was problem with rim clearance i dont want to grind or cut lower arm or buy new rims and tires so i started
checking on lowering springs and some say the ride will be stock or better and some say the ride will be like riding in a logging truck then there was the shocks question new good shocks are about 60% less then 2in drop shocks after checking the spec found the following stock shock Extended Length:13.75 in Drop Shock Extended Length:13.50 in stock shock Compressed Length:9.5 in Drop Shock Compressed Length:9.0 in the travel lenght was the same i guess my question is will the differance of 1/4 and 1/2 inch cause a problem or performance issue ?
thanks John
John,
2″ drop springs should ride fine although you lose 2″ of travel. If you go the drop spring route you need to use a shorter shock to optimize the travel, but why not use a Calmax 2″ lower control arms? No wheel clearance or loose of travel and uses stock lenght shocks! Sounds like a natural for what your looking for. Let me know what you do!!
Mark
the previous owner of my 2000 silverado removed one of the leaf springs and I added 2″ drop shackles but the frame and the axle are touching and it didn’t drop the full 2″, now what do I need to do?
Mike,
What or where is the axle touching?
Mark
Have a 1999 F350 dually with 24″ 10 lug – the front sits almost perfect but the rear neds to come down 3 to 4″ – suggestions? I see on djm you make 1″ and 5″ – do you have anything in between? Is the 5″ adjustable?
Thanks in advance!
Frank,
The 5″ rear kit is made up with 3″ leaf spring “eye hangers” ( front leaf spring mount ) and 2″ rear leaf spring “shackles” ( rear leaf spring mount ). Both the eye hangers and the shackles have multiple holes that allows you to modify or adjust ride height based on your needs! Click here to see pictures of the parts, I think they will do what you want!!
Mark
Thanks for the quick response I will order tomorrow! Can I use my stock shocks or do I replace? Will I need to add air bags to help with the ride???
Thanks again!
Frank,
If you drop more than lets say 2″ you should probably go with a shorter shock. A shorter part will operate in the middle of the stroke where it is more efficient and has more room to move up and down. Adding air bags will help if you carry a load at times. When your empty you really don’t need them but if you load up and compress the suspension even more then you can use air bags to get you back to your “empty” ride height! Very handy when hauling and towing!!
Mark
I have a 97, 2 door, 2 wd tahoe with a 4/6 drop. I noticed that because of the drop, the rear wheels aren’t centered in the wheel wells and it’s VERY visible. (This was clearly going to be the case just by looking at the off centered holes in the plates that hold the Ubolts around the axle together) Is my only option to have the drive shaft shortened and drilling new (CENTERED) holes in plates that hold the ubolts in place?
Omar,
If your 97 Tahoe has our rear flip kit it would be a 4″ kit, a 6″ would drop the rear too much! Also the axle brackets we built if properly installed would actually offset the axle to the rear because lowering would effectively make the drive shaft longer. It almost sounds like your axle brackets are installed the wrong way! Check and make sure the holes are offset towards the front (which moves the rear axle back towards the rear) this keeps the rear end at the proper length regarding the drive shaft!! Let me know what your looking at, then we can get you set up right!
Mark
hey guys just got the 5/5 kit for my 1986 gmc 1500 and i just started the tear down however i am having some problems removing the old spring any sugestions?? i have the old shock off and the sway bar disconnected
Jeremy,
Your going to need to loosen and remove the lower ball joint nut so you can lower the lower control arm. THIS MUST BE DONE WITH A FLOOR JACK SUPPORTING THE LOWER CONTROL ARM SO YOU CAN CONTROL THE COIL SPRING AS YOU UNLOAD THE SPRING, WHILE HAVING THE ENTIRE FRONT END SUPPORTED WITH GOOD JACK STANDS!! Now having stated the safe way to do this, please be careful when taking the tension off the spring, the best and easiest way is to use a hydraulic floor jack to support the lower control arm, loosen and remove the castle nut on the lower ball joint and drive the lower ball joint from the spindle with the jack providing support. The spring has a lot of tension even hanging all the way done with the shock removed so be careful go slow and be in control (floor jack).
You can install the new coils in just the opposite way! Now, you must be safe – use good jack stands, good hydraulic floor jacks, bottle jacks, etc. Good luck and if you don’t have the right equipment get professional help, they can save you alot of grief!
Mark
hey guys i got my front end all completed now im in to doing the rear flip kit. i am not really wanting to remove the rear axle so whats the easiest way to put on the flip kit is there a place i can see some detailed step by step instructions to help me along
Jeremy,
Sorry about the delay in getting back to you, just missed your question! If you know the part number of your flip kit you can go to your application on http://www.djmsuspension.com and scroll down to individual parts, there you should find downloadable instructions for you flip kit!
Mark
I just bought a 1999 GMC Sierra 1500 std cab 2wd that has a DJM drop kit on it. It came with 22s on it and I am trying to replace them with 17s or 18s but I do not know how much of a drop the last owner put on it. I can see it has DJM control arms on the front and a flit kit and C-notch on the rear. How can I found out the specific amount of drop so I can find out the tire size that will fit?
Dave,
If you have a flip kit on the rear then you must have a 4/6 kit. I think you can run 18′s for sure and probably 17′s with no trouble! Good luck and let us know what you do!!
Mark
i own a 1992 chevy xcab now and i used to own a 93 rcsb and i used yalls flip kit and loved it. my question is could i purchase just the flip kit with out the notch? bc im fabing up my own. i would apreciate the help
kyle
Kyle,
You can buy just the flip part of the kit, the part number if FK1025-F and your price would be $110.21. It is not on the website but you can call us directly (800-237-6748) and order it!!
Mark
Have a question….. I bought a 4 and 6 drop kit for my 08 Silverado crew cab everything work good but on the rear I didnt install the hangers is that the reason the rear axle hits on the frame? Or this there a kit to stiff in the rear a little
Thanks you Robert
Robert,
If you don’t install the hangers from the 6″ kit you basically have a 7″ kit! You still should have travel though, where is the axle hitting the frame?
Mark
I own a 69 Ford F-250 I’m converting from an 8 bolt pattern to a 5 bolt pattern, do U offer a 3″ drop spindle for the front ?.
Oscar,
We do not make spindles for the I-beam Fords, we make drop I-beams instead. If you are completely changing over to the 5-lug suspension then our F-100 kits would work for you. Click here to check them out and if you decide to give it a try let me know I would like to follow your project!
Mark
I have a 70 C10 with drum brakes, 2″ drop coils in the from and 5″ in the rear. I want to drop the front two more inches but not change the drum brakes. Can I achieve this with the Calmax lower control arms with 1″ coils and stock shocks? Also, will there by any issues with alignment?
Thanks, Jeff
Jeff,
The arms will work fine ( be sure to get the CA2355L-3 for drum brakes). We don’t make 1″ coils but all you have to do to make your 2″ coils a 1″ coil is take some heater hose and make a spring shim out of it by wraping around the end coil (effectively) making the spring a little longer)! You shouldn’t have any alignment issues with this setup, you’ll have adjust the toe and a little camber adjustment and away you go!!
Mark
Hey guys,
I just bought a 2000 s-10 2wd regular cab short bed. Wanna get it low. How low can I go with stock wheels?
I was thinking of going with the control arm kit for now, but if I decide to go lower what would be my options?
Thanks for the help already learned a ton from the website!!!
Alex,
You can do a 3/4 kit with your stock wheels with no problems. If you want to go down more you run into issues! You can use drop coils or air bags in the front with the arms but you will create scrub-line and alignment issues. In the rear you will soon be up against the bed and wondering if you really want to cut holes in it! Be careful at this point, it will run great with a 3/4 drop, but what you decide do after will cause you trouble of somekind. GOOD LUCK!!
Mark
I have a 99 2wd suburban with one of your flip kits on it. I am looking to replace the u-bolts, do you have these replacement u-bolts? Thanks for any help…..James
James,
You can get a U-bolt kit by clicking here. Choose the FK1025UBK and away you go!!
Mark
any way to drop 2010 f250 lariat?? if so how its a 4×4 but i have never used it is there anyway to get a 3″ -5″ drop?
Dylan,
Sorry to report that we don’t have a kit that will lower a 4WD F250. We can do 2WD but the 4WD front end is different. I am not aware of any kits for the 4WD I-BEAM trucks, that doesn’t mean they don’t exist I have just never ran across them. Keep looking and maybe you can find a good one!
Mark
Hello, I have a 94 sierra that I want to lower. I just bought new Moog coil springs about a yar ago and I really don’t want to get rid of them. I want to do a 4-6 drop, could I just do the spindles and control arms for the 4″ drop, then the flip kit in the rear? or would that through off my geometry in the front?
Phillip,
To get a 4″ front drop on your 94 Sierra you can use a spindle + spring or a control arm + spring. Unfortunately you can use both (geometry issues), so click here to see the kits available for your Sierra! Good Luck
Mark
i have a 2000 ford expedition 2wd w/ the 5.4l v8 i have 20×9″ chrome lightning rims w/ a 295/40zr20 falken tire now my question is i wanna sit it as low as possible i already have a set of 2″ drop spindles but i wanna add 2″ upper/lower c-arms 3″ drop springs in the front now as for the rear the airbag kit that came with the truck was replaced with control arms what can i do to slam the rear equally as low or should i go back with airbags thanks
Joshua,
The lowest kit we make is a 4″ front and a 4″ rear that you might have some contact issues with regarding your 295/20/20′s in the front. This depends on the offset and the shape of the fender liner. You can often “roll ” the inside of the fender lip to get enough clearance to solve any contact issue! Our rear coil springs are shaped like the factory parts and you can probably use and airbag in them if you needed to! Sounds like you can go 4/4, but you may have to make some adjustments to fine tune and then you just enjoy! Good luck.
Mark
I have a 99′ Ford F-250 2wd. Looking to lower the truck with your 3/5 kit you offer. Can you tell me exactly what DJM package I need. I also see that you offer shock replacments for the kit one chooses for their truck. I just had (4) new Pro-Comps put on last month. They are just replacments for the stock originals that were on their originally. Can i still use these shocks ( Im $200 into shocks already ) and would hate to have to buy (4) more. Look forward to hearing from you.
Jason,
If your 99 F250 is a 8-lug truck you use SuperDuty parts or click here. Also your new ProComp shocks will work fine in the front (shock length remains factory), in the rear it would be better if you ran a shorter shock but since you have new shocks, paid for and installed, go ahead and use them. Watch out that they do not limit suspension travel, (factory length may limit travel).
Mark
Mark, yes my truck is 8-lugged. Im definately agreeing on the suspension travel in the rear, not really saying that it will be or wont be an issue. But I would like a peace of mind that, that rear shock is doing its job. And not being limited on travel do to length. What length shock do you recogmend for the rear ( your DJM part number ).
Thanks once again.
Jason,
Our part number is 2200 for the correct fit on a 99 Superduty with our kit. Just click on the part number and away you go! Thanks for your interest!!
Mark
I have a 95 f250 powerstroke 2wd that i would like to drop 3/7 or so. the reason being is i have shorten the wheelbase from a longbox to a shortbox lenght to make a powerstroke looking lightning. In shortening the frame, cutting 16 inches out, raised the standard rake of my truck. Can this be c-notched or which kit can get me these numbers? thanks
Jerry,
I am going to presume your F250 is a 8-lug truck and recommend our 3/5 kit. It is built for Superduty’s consisting of 3″ drop beams in the front and a 5″ rear leaf spring hanger and shackle kit. We have not made a flip or “c-notch” kit because it would lower the rear lower than you could lower the front and maintain a proper alignment. If you wanted a little more drop from the rear you could remove a leaf or have them de-arched a little. Of course if you go that route be careful, because you doing custom work and may not get the outcome you want. Click here to see the 3/5 kit. Send us a picture!
Mark
Hi mark the link you gave me goes to a 3/4 kit. Is this the right kit. Can you get the 5 inch drop in the rear with it? Thanks for your help.
Jerry,
Opps, the later F350′s have the 5″ kit and your 95 has a 4″ rear kit, sorry. Using the 4″ kit moves the rear leaf springs up on the frame rails as far as you can go. To get a little more drop you’ll have to modify the leaf spring in some way. Remove a leaf or de-arch, etc. Hope this clears up my mistake!
Mark
Hi Mark or whomever. I have installed the 3/4 drop kit on my shortened frame f250 and have a vibration. the kit i installed was the drop beams and rear spring hanger and shackle. i also have shortened the frame 16 and 1/4 inches to make a short box reg cab f250. by looking at the drive shaft joint area by u joint it looks misaligned. i didn’t receive any shims when i bought this kit. what degree of shim should i order. thanks Jerry
Jerry,
I can’t tell you which shim to get or if that would work. We make a 2, 4 and 6 degree shim kit, you could pick the 4 degree and see what effect you get. With what you have done it is a keep trying until you find the answer situation! Let me now what you do!!
Mark
I have a 89 chevy 1500 and I put on a 4/6 drop. I want 18×8 in the front and 18×9.5 in the rear what offset wheels do you suggest and tire size.
Will,
Our recommendation is to stick to the factory offset. Having said that we are not wheel and tire experts, mainly because we see so few of the choices that are available out there. Your local wheel and tire dealer might be a better source. Good Luck!!
Mark
Hi I currently purchased an 88 Silverado standard cab 2wd short cab. I am looking at drop kits and I am really drawn to yours, I just bought some torque thrust ll for my truck 16″ for the front and 17″ for the back.
what drop would u recommend?
Danny,
Having an 88 Silverado means you can do almost anything you want! You can drop the front 2″,3″,4″,5″ with springs or spindles, or control arms and you can drop the back 2″,3″,4″,5″,6″,7″ with shackles, or leaf spring hangers, or flip kits!. Click here to find out more about these parts. How much to drop is a personal choice and your wheel selection shouldn’t cause you any problems so check out the choices and if you have any questions let me know!! Good Luck.
Mark
Hi mark, thanks for the reply. How can I get a 7 in drop in the back?
Danny,
Just add a set of shackles (SH1011-2) to the flip kit and use the inside or closest holes to mount it for an extra 1″ drop!
Mark
i have a 3/4 drop with spindles in the front and hangers and shackels in the back and i am not having problems with the front end having a wobble. what can be the cause of that and how can it be fixed.
Miguel,
There can be several reasons for a “wobble” in the front. Depending on the year of your truck it could be your steering gear (which can be adjusted), worn ball joints, tie-rod ends, wheel bearings, etc. These parts can be replaced if worn and you should consider making sure your alignment is correct. You might want to use a professional to help you diagnose if it is not obvious to you! Good Luck!!
Mark
Great site will be visiting often. Just got a 94 silverado for a father and son project and the first thing we will be doing is dropping the front 4 and rear 6. Reading this forum was really helpful. Keep it up guys!
Jose,
Thanks for the great comment, good luck with your project and if we can help just let us know!!
Mark
First time lowering a truck, been a car guy till I found this truck. So my question is I want to drop my 2004 GMC sierra ext. Step side. What would give me a very noticeable drop that would not require frame modifications?
Josh,
Probably a 2/4 or a 3/4 kit would be the best thing for you! Click here to see the different kits available to you. You don’t need to modify the frame until you decide to go 6″ in the rear. Good luck and let us know how you choose to go!!
Mark
chosen to go with the 5/7 drop…. I know I will end up with it so I have decided to go with it from the start.
JUST BOUGHT THE 3/5 KIT FOR MY 2011 FORD F150 SUPER CREW CAB 2WD . GREAT RIDE AND LOOKS GREAT !!!!! NO RATTLES OR ANY OTHER SIDE EFFECTS
Sergio,
Thanks for the kind review, send us some pictures!!
Mark
I have my 1998 F150 Stepside EXT cab lowered 4 inches in the front with 2″ coils and 2″ spindles and 6 inches in the back with the DJM flip kit and c notch with 18×9.5 SVT Lightning wheels and when I turn, the inside of the rim rubs with the lower control arm. I can hardly turn at all and I dont know what to get. Is their a certain pair of lower control arms I can get so I can keep my wheels and turn with out any problems?
Roel,
You may be able to solve your problem with our Calmax Control Arms. Click here to see what we have for you. Spindles do sometimes cause the problem your describing but usually on Chevy’s! Let us know what you do!!
Mark
I am interested in purchasing your 5″ flip kit for my 85 GMC C1500. I would really like to be at 7″ or 8″ of rear drop though. I know to do this I will need to c-notch the frame. Do have a rear drop/lowering kit that will give me this much drop?
Scott,
If you add a set of drop shackles to the flip kit you can get up to 7″ of drop. Your right about needing a “c-notch” with a 7″ drop, we have never made made one because that much drop causes to many issues. It’s hard to get the front down enough to look good with a 7″ rear drop plus alignment issues and in the rear the differential is getting very close the the bed. We didn’t want to make a kit that caused problems like that! Doesn’t mean you can’t do it though. That’s how you end up with a totally unique ride, so put on your customizing hat and when your done send us some pictures of what your created!!
Mark
I have a 1997 dodge ram full size cargo van I want to drop 3″ I cant seem to find exactly the right kit I need does any one have any suggestions????
Melow,
No-one we know of makes an “off the shelf” kit for your Dodge Van. However if your Dodge is a 5 lug (1/2 ton) platform and we assume the van front suspension is the same as the Ram pick up then you can choose from the options we have, click here. These assumptions hold true for Chevy but not for Ford vans so you need to do a little detective work! In all cases the rear suspension on a van is different than the pick up’s so you really on your own there. A shackle may work, or maybe you can have the leaf springs de-arched. You will have to work that out. Good luck and let us know what you end up doing!!
Mark
hey guys, i have a 06 gmc sierra v6 and im looking at doing a 4/6 drop but i have a few questions. first im running stock 17 inch wheeles and ive heard that there are clerance issues. also the kit im looking at dosent come with shocks and im wondering if my stock ones will work. and last i have never done a c notch and im curious how difficult it is to install. thanks!
Daniel,
You don’t have to worry about wheel clearance with our Calmax Control Arm front ends. On your 06 if you used a spindle you would have to move up to at least 18′s to clear the wheels. Regarding shocks, on the front the factory length is ok but the rear needs to be shorter. The ride and handling can be greatly improved with the right set of shocks and I would highly recommend upgrading your shocks if you install your 4/6 kit! Click here for more info on the parts!
Good luck and let us know what you do!!
Mark
I have a 93 gmc extended cab short bed, i just bought the upper and lower control arms 3″ drop, and a rear 4″ flip kit. I was wondering if i need to adjust the carrier bearing? and also if i would need the pinion shims?
Kevin,
If you have installed your 3/4 kit and needed to adjust the carrier bearing you would know by a low speed (0 – 20mph) vibration. This typically occurs from a stop when you accelerate. If you experience a high speed (50+mph) vibration you might need to adjust the pinion angle. If you don’t have these vibrations, then like most guy’s your good!
Mark
thx for the info, i just installed the kit and addded front and rear antisway bars. It drives great. Great products
I have a 2010 chevy silverado crew cab with a 4/7 drop that consists of spindles and coils in front and flip kit in rear.My alignment is off by one degree and my adjustment is maxed out already. Is there a upper control arm that corrects negative camber without giving me more drop? Thanks
Hector,
You are not alone with the camber problem that comes from spindles + coils. We make an upper that comes with our 4″ front kit that may be able to help you. Click here to view the upper control arms and choose the CA2507U
is product # ca2507u the same as ca2507uel? The reason I ask is because I have a guy trying to sell me uca’s #ca2507uel and I can’t find any info on them. He says they are not listed online because I have to special order them. Does this sound right? Thanks again
Hector,
I am note sure what a CA2507UEL is, can you find out what makes then “special”?
Mark
Do you make lowering kits for a 1995 Ford E150 Clubwagon Chateau, or would you know of someone that may? Thanks, Ken
Ken,
I am sorry to say we do not make a kit for the E-Series Fords. Our parts for the F-Series have been tried on the E-Series several times, all failed. There were dimensional differences in all cases and it appears no good way top make them work. I can’t be any more helpful suggesting anyone else, we just don’t anyone making these parts. Very sorry!!
Mark
First of all this is my girlfriends email as I do not have one so no jokes please…. My problem is that I bought a djm 3/5 lowering kit for my 2012 ford f150 reg cab short box 4×4 my issue is that the back now sits lower then the front roughly 3/4 on a inch… Is there anything I can do to correct this??
Quin,
If your 4X4 is like some we have seen you have a 1″ block in your spring pack that will screw up the lowering numbers. The solution to this is to call us and buy the leaf spring hangers (that lift) from the 4″ kit. They will lift you 2″ and if that is to much you can go back to your factory shackles which will drop you an inch for a total of 1″ lift. The hangers are not on the website but we can sell them to you if you call us. The part number is EH3209 and your cost would be about $141.
Foxy_Mark
Thank you.
Hi,
I have a 2008 Silverado Crew Cab 2wd, i want to lower it but i dont want to sacrifice my stock ride. Which would be best, 2/4 or 3/5. Also, do you have any pictures of both drops to compare for 08-12 silverados with stock 20″ wheels?
Luis,
The one thing we don’t have enough of is pictures! If you put a kit on please send us a picture!!! You won’t really affect your stock ride (when running empty) with either the 2/4 or 3/5 kit. Of course, the more you lower the more you affect the ride but these kits ride very good! Let us know what you decide!
Mark
i have a 89 chevy C1500 stepside with a 4/6 belltech drop but need to change out my control arms so i wanted to buy your calmax upper and lower arms. Would mu belltech coilspring and sway bar work with these control arms?
Cesar,
Yes you can use our arms with the Bell Tech coils, just make sure you get the CA2555L-4 lower arms (designed to work with a 2″ coil spring). Our CA2555L-2 is a 2″ drop arm but it is designed to work with the factory coils! Click here< /a> to see the arms
Mark
I have a 2006 Sierra crew cab and wanted to lower the back an additional 2″ on top of the 2″ shackles I’ve installed but can’t seem to find anything on your site. When I try the applications for my truck it says you have options but they aren’t listed?
Jason,
I am assuming you have leaf spring hangers which are welded on. If you do it’s my fault there parts aren’t on the site. Give us a call we have kits from 2/2 to 4/6 there just not on the site!
Mark
Is there anything that I can do..to lower the rear more.
Derrick,
There is no “easy” way to get more drop. We did not build a “flip kit” because there is no way to get the front down enough to match the rear, and the hanger shackle kit only gets you 4″. So, what you can do is modify the leaf spring, maybe. You can remove a leaf from the leaf spring pack (usually lowers and usually rides bad) or if you live close to a large manufacturing area you might luck-out and find a leaf spring manufacturer who can “heat set” or change the height that the spring holds a particular load in a controlled manufacturing environment. Resist the temptation to use heat directly on your spring, leave that option to a spring shop. I am sorry i could not help more you just don’t have many options.
Mark
Hi there,
I’ve got a 2006 Ford Econoline E250 and I’m looking for a lowering kit especially for the front axle Twin I-Beams. I see that DJM offers I-Beams for Ford Pick-Up Trucks but not so much for Ford Vans. Will the Ford P-Up I-Beams fit in my Econoline? If not, do you have any other ideas how to lower the front of my Econoline. I don’t really wanna cut something out of the frame to lower it.
Thank you.
Tom,
We know the ball joint I-beams (83-96) we build for the F series will not work on the E series. I do not know for sure if the king pin beams are the same or different. We did sell a set of DB3004-3 (king pin drop beams) to a photographer for HotRod magazine lately and I will try to reach him to find out for you. If you don’t here from me in a few days bug me again been pretty busy lately!
Mark
I have 3″DJM lowering coils on the front of my 1965 GMC the rear has leaf springs, leaves were taken out to lower it 5″ The ride is good but I think I need sway bars. I couldn’t seem to find any to fit it on the JDM site. Thanx…
Lavern,
I am sorry to report to you that we have not made a set of anti-swaybars for your 65 GMC. I think it’s great idea but haven’t got much support to do the r&d. Try Hellwig, or Hotchkiss, they make fine stuff and might have bars for your 65!
Mark
I have a 2006 trailblazer ss and paid a shop out here to lower it and thing doesn’t align and rides horrible. The rear has the oem airbags and is there a conversion I can do to change them out??
James,
Let me give you a link to all things Trailblazer SS all the time! These guys are with out a doubt the Trailblazer go to guys!! Just click here TBSSOWNERS.com
Mark
Hello im interested in lowering my 2005 dodge ram rumble bee its a reg cab short bed but its 4wd i have looked on your site and found the 3″/5″ kit p/n #djm2393-3/5 im wondering can i install this in my own garage with my air tools and floor jack or is it a shop job & will this work with my truck being that its 4×4 im not looking to really use it as a off road truck so height doesnt matter i want it to look like a street truck slammed as low as possible without notching the frame or having fast bags installed aslo what else will i have to change on the truck for this kit to work THANKYOU FOR THE GREAT PRODUCTS ~ Tim from Detroit
Tim,
First very sorry about that late response, got very behind! Now, I am also sorry to tell you our Dodge Ram parts will only work on 2WD. Our parts are all designed to install as easily as possible and can be installed at home if you have some patience, good tools, and some wrenching experience. Of course you can call us if you get stuck on something and we will try are best to help!
Mark
Mark,
thx for getting back to me. There is no question that your DB3004-3 will fit on my E-250. The only two beams which come very close, just by looking at your pics, are DB3015-3 or DB3005-3. I still don’t know the dimensions of these two I-Beams (DB3015-3/DB3005-3 the length of right and left I-Beam, distance between upper and lower ball joint applications, diameter of the holes and so on. If the photographer for HOTROD Magazine bought a set of DB3004-3, then don’t bother contacting him, since they look quite different from the I-Beams on my Van. But if it was a typo on your side of the msg (from March 20), and the photographer bought a set of DB3005-3 instead of DB3004-3, then it might be a good idea to contact him. But we still don’t know whether the photographer wanted the I-Beams for an Econoline or a Pick-Up Truck, do we?
Thank you.
Tom,
Sorry I missed the very important “250″ part of your E-250! You have a 1 ton platform and the 3004 parts are for a 1/2 ton platform. Historically with the ball joint beams, they are different between the “F” and “E” series. I will get the dimensions of the Superduty beams for you and hope they will fit. Stay tuned!
Sorry,
Mark
I have a pair of the 3″ lower control arms for my 03 ext cab silverado, it suggests buying the 1415 supershox for the front and the 1900+2000 supershox as well for the back, when used with the shackle/hanger combination. Can I use my factory shocks for this install? If not do I need one 1900 and one 2000 series supershox for the rear? thanks.
Chase,
The shock suggestions are made to pair the correct length shock with that particular lowering kit. On your application you can use factory length shocks on the front because the Calmax arms do not change the factory suspension travel, on the rear however we suggest the 1900/2000 shocks because you have changed the amount of travel and your factory length shocks can actually limit your travel. You can use the factory shocks with the 4″ hanger/shackle kit but they will bottom out frequently and will be operating at the end of their stroke, which is not optimal. In other words your ride will be better with shorter shocks in the rear! So, the best ride quality occurs with the right shock length. Hope this helps you decide!
Mark
I have a 2007 (Classic) Sierra 1500 standard cab short box with 255/45-20s and was planning on installing the 99-06 DJM 4/6 drop on this. Before I get stared I want to know if I am missing anything. I have the DJM 4″ lower control arms, DJM flip kit for the rear, factory springs and aftermarket shocks to go around. Knowing my setup, are there any additional items that will be needed before get started? There has been a lot of talk around needing the upper control arms to get the alignment correct and stress off ball joints. One final thing, looking at the control arms this morning, I noticed that one of the ball joint boots has a tear in it and will need to be replaced. Where would I locate one of these?
Louis,
You can get buy without the upper control arms on some trucks but they need to be nearly perfect from the factory. Adding the upper arms will improve the upper ball joint angle on all trucks and improve the alignment adjust-ability on most trucks. Regarding your ball joint boots, they are molded into the casing on your lower ball joints so there is not a replacement boot. You can try to “patch it” someway, it would help, but just keep an eye on it and pump fresh grease in frequently and that will help alot! Good Luck!!
Mark
I bought a 2002 Chevy S10 Blazer 2WD with the V6 in it I want to do a 2″ front and 3″ rear drop. I am told that I have to buy angle blocks for the back of it is that true? I have seen several kits and they say nothing of the sort about that I need some info so when I does this in a couple weeks that I have everything to do it on the weekend.
Rick,
We have found no need for changing the angle on 3″ blocks, 4″ is another matter. Also be aware that the S-10 spindles will not work on your 02 Blazer, your best bet is 2″ coil springs.
Here is a link to what we list for your 2002 Blazer! Good luck!!
Mark
i have a 1997 blazer s10 4wd, i was wondering if you have any kits that will lower 3″ front and rear
Matt,
Sorry to report that our parts only work on the 2WD models. Your front end is a torsion bar design. The rear is the same however, using blocks, if you can find some front end parts.
Mark
Hello,
I have a 97 dodge ram and I’m about to order the 4/6 drop. My question is how is the ride gonna be this drop? And if I get the shocks djm recommend on their website be any good or should I get different ones?
Thanks
Manny,
Your ride in normal driving situations will be the same. You do not have as much suspension travel as stock, so when you drive be aware of that. It just means if your carrying a load or towing or anything that reduces suspension travel you will be on your bump stops sooner and more often. One thing that can definitely help your ride is to have the correct length shocks, which by the way the DJM Calmax shocks are made specifically for their lowering kits! So the best choice would be the DJM shocks. Send us a picture of your Ram when your done!
Mark