The Professional Choice

The Garage

DJM Garage

 

The Garage is where you share your project story with other enthusiasts! Think of it like a magazine article on your truck. If it’s a complete restoration, tell us where you found it, what condition it was in, what it did in life before it found you. Or your building the latest brand new truck and had a hard time finding parts, we all can benefit from what you’ve learned. You can have a “step by step” story where we update your progress as you go and you can get help with problems or see ideas offered by other enthusiasts, or a complete start to finish story. It’s all about you, what you did, why you did it and what are you doing know!

See ya in

The Garage


549 Responses to The Garage

  1. I have a 2003 S10 XTREME pickup that I want to put tubular control arms on and I do not want to lower it using the control arms, I would rather use your spindles instead to lower it if need be! Do you make the control arms that will keep the Factory (Lowered)highth? I saw someone on the internet selling a set of your C10 upper control arms and I liked the design of them…are the S10 uppers the same design? What kind of metal are your arms made of and can I buy them in raw steel, no hammer coating? Thanks Rod.

    • Rod,

      We don’t make a tubular arm which keeps stock ride height. We also don’t make a upper arm for the S10, so the spindle looks like your best choice. Our lower control arm gives you a 3″ drop with the factory coil and spindle if you’re looking for a 3″ front drop. Keep in mind your Xtreme comes from Chevy lower than a regular S10! By the way, I am assuming you don’t have the all wheel drive version!!

      Mark

  2. I have an 89 C1500 project truck. I recently installed the 6″ rear flip kit to eliminate the handy work of someone who shouldn’t hold a wrench. Now its time for the front. It has a previously installed 4inch’ish drop though I don’t know if its the spring or spindles doing the lowering. The control arms appear to be factory with original ball joints. All the bushings, tie-rod ends and ball joints are toast. Seeing as how just about all of it needs replacing, is there a kit I can get that that gives me the 4″ drop I need as well as covers all the bushings?

    I also need new shocks for all four corners. Which shocks would you recommend. A coil-over setup for the front would be sweet though I am not sure that is something you guys make.

    Thanks

    • Eric,

      Cool, what a great project! Calmax control arms for your C1500 come with new urethane bushings and new ball joints (factory). You can also use Calmax arms for the upper, with new bushings and ball joints. The uppers help with alignment and proper ball joint angles. If you want to go that route you should make sure you have a factory spindle and then get the 4″ Calmax kit for the front. You can pick up the tie-rod ends from any auto parts store (like NAPA) and the front will be brand new! Following are links to the parts your asking about including shocks! Lower Calmax Arms, Upper Calmax Control Arms, Coil Springs, Front shocks, rear shocks (passenger side), rear shocks (drivers side). You can also click here to see what’s in our 4/6 kit for your C1500 for more information!! Good luck and let me know what you do, maybe send spme pictures!!

      Mark

  3. I have a 1990 Chevy W/T lwb w/4.3. I ordered the CA2555-4 LCA and 2″ springs.
    Got it all in and on the ground but there’s way too much positive camber.
    Looks like major diegrinder work and pulling the UCA’s. I thought all this stuff was to maintain factory alignment?? At least near would have been cool.
    And then the instructions say to trim 5/8″ off of the tierod ends and “some” off of the sleeves.
    Is this ALL 4, inner & outer, or just outer? or just inner??
    And how much is “some” off of the sleeves? 1/8″? 1/4″? I see lots of time mocking this stuff up so the alignment guy can dial it in.

    • Dean,

      Installing front coil springs on the 88-98 C1500 is difficult whether you lower or lift, patience and persistence is required. Regarding the tierod ends and sleeves, you need to shorten the tie rod ends to achieve enough adjustment to dial in the correct toe. Sometimes you need to trim both the tie rod ends and sleeves to keep them from bottoming out before you get the proper toe setting (first only trim the tierod ends, then the sleeves if necessary). Also regarding your alignment, something is wrong if you have installed the lower arms and springs and have positive camber. How much lowering did you get? Very curious, please let me know!

      Mark

  4. i’am looking at your djm240034 for my 05 gmc canyon saw one add online said it would work but saw another one that said it would NOT fit my truck so what do think is my best way to go would like to drop it 3 in front an 4 in the rear i have 18 inch wheels with factory offset also if i use this kit can i install it at home an be ok to drive it to alingement shop thanks for any help you can give

    • Robert,

      IF you’re Canyon is 2WD you are good to go!! The 3/4 kit works great and yes you can install at home and “eyeball” the alignment plenty good enough to get to the alignment shop! Here’s a link to the parts you’ll need. Let me know if you need any more help.

      Mark

  5. I’m currently building a 1988 Chevy Silverado. I’m doing a 5/6 drop on it, using the 6 inch flip kit in the rear with the 3 in drop coils and 2 inch drop lower control arms up front. I’m using the stock spindles and replaced the upper control arms as well. I’m still in the process of installing the front suspension and having some problems with the lower control arms fitting the new coil springs. I feel I’m gonna have to compress the springs with an internal spring compressor while there in the coil pocket on the frame. Just until I’m able to swing the lower control where the springs can seat in the control arm properly. If anyone has any other ideas that may work please let me know, it’s been a bit of a headache getting them to fit just right I know I have the right parts that will work together.

    • Tom,

      You’ve discovered maybe the hardest spring installation of them all! The 88-98 C1500 spring is simply a bit*** to install. You have an advantage though, the 3″ is easier than any other;) Your idea of using a spring compressor is good, other ways guys have done it is to hold the spring in place and jack the control straight up into position, flat without mounting the pivot bolts so it is parallel with the ground until you can attach the ball joint and pivot bolts, this can be tricky, be careful! What it really boils down to is your experience and equipment, determination, etc! No doubt it is harder than most spring installs but it’s not impossible. Take your time, watch whats happening as you load that spring and you will be fine!! (Note: Be careful of the upper spring mounts, they have a crown like retainer where you can easily bend one of those “points” down and cause a lot of trouble when installing the spring!) Hope this helps, let me know how it goes!!

      Good Luck,
      Mark

      • Mark,
        Thanks for the advice and words of wisdom. I was able to get the coil springs in with an internal spring compressor from the top then when I got the spring compressed enough I brought up the lower control arm and had to use a 1 ton chain fall to pull the coil over enough to fit into the tab and the control it worked out perfect. It was a bit of process and quite a bi*** but everything ended up where it needed to be, thanks for the help and hopefully my learning curve on these springs will help someone in the future

  6. I currently am running the 3/5 lowering kit on my 08 Silverado and love it. As a project truck I am building a 69 Chevy C20 with 4 wheel drum brakes and front/rear coils. I am wanting to slam the truck as low as possible but am having a hard time understanding the DJM site. It lists a kit for 73-91 C20’s but nothing older. If I select the C10 option it has a 5/5+ kit that I would be interested in because I would like to upgrade the control arms and bushings while lowering it. Will the C10 kit work for my application or should I look elsewhere for a different kit?

    • Brent,

      The reason the site only goes back to 73 on the 8 lug truck is that’s as far back as we have had a chance to work on! The front Calmax control arms would probably work but they have the disc brake ball joints in them so you would need to change out the ball joints. Note I did say probably, I am taking an educated guess here so you can’t hold me too it;) I also would be willing to bet the C10 rear coils would fit on your truck but I have no idea what they would do!!! We just have no practical experience with a 69 6 lug platform. I would love to see and hear about what you do!!!

      Mark

      • Thanks for the reply. I’m still doing a lot of digging on the subject and feel that I am getting more and more confused every day. haha. Unfortunately this truck is an 8 lug, if it were a 6 lug I would already have gotten this hammered out. I guess back to the drawing board!! I really don’t want to buy a kit and it not work then be stuck with it! Thanks for the help!!

  7. I have an 05 Chevy tahoe. I installed a 2″ drop in the rear about a year ago. Recently it started to sound bad when I drive and it’s coming from the back. I have the 2″ drop springs, end links, and drop shocks, my question is what would make that noise in the back. It sounds like metal hitting or clacking. Can it be the lower trailing arms that need to be replaced in the back or are the shock bad already. Do I need the shock brackets with the djm drop shocks?

    Thanks

    • Carlos,

      If your hearing that kind of sound you should be able to see what is hitting. Look for shiny metal or some indicator of contact. Could be any of the things you described, let me know what you think it is?

      Mark

      • I replaced the lower control arms at the rear. Sounds better and rides smoother. I have a question though, my stock sway bar rests on the metal of the axle on the driver side. Is that normal? And would a djm sway bar eliminate this problem?

  8. I have two questions. 1) Would like to accomplish a 3″/5″ drop on a 1990 C1500 std cab/short box.Looking for quality ride 1st & performance 2nd. Going w/3″ lower control arm(& adding uppers at same time)& 5″. For the rear which is more ideal, flip kit w/shorty shackles or shackles/hangers for 4″ plus add 1″ block?
    2nd.) Do you guys make 3″control arms for a 1999 Tahoe 4wd? Or a kit to do a 2/3 or 3/3? Thanks for any info…

    • Anthony,
      I think you would be better off with the 6″ flip kit and the shorty shackles. You will have more suspension travel, better ride and better handling! Regarding the 4WD Tahoe thinking these arms just might work for you!!

      Mark

  9. I have a 99 Ford Ranger. Years ago I put some drop springs on it. It still has a little negative camber, will your upper control arms provide a little more adjustment for this? In other words, does your upper control arm position the ball joint further out from the frame then the factory upper control arm??

    • TJ,

      Been away for a couple of days, sorry. The upper control arms may help, they are a little longer than stock and they are designed to work with the Calmax Lowers which are a little shorter than stock to help deal with that negative camber! The will optimize the upper ball joint angle and if you need there are excentric urethane bushing you can install in the Calmax upper arms for more adjustment! Just click here. Hope this helps!

      Mark

      • I have ordered and received the upper arms CA3098U… Is there a difference between the left and right hand sides??? The only mark I can see is a welded “hump” on one of them.
        Thanks -TJ

  10. Hello there,
    I have a 2007 silverado it was a bit lifted, and i was looking for a drop kit. So i asked a good friend of mine, he has a 2011 sierra dropped, with a belltech 4/6 complete kit. So thats what i got, i had the kit installed, but due to my guy who did the work who didnt have a special tool to compress the camber bushings, my truck sits at a slight negative camber stance. Ive noticed through your guys’s kits i havent seen or read about camber bushing, which sounds like alot easier work to deal with. Now my question is do you guys think once i install the camber bushings, will my stance straighten up? Or what do you guys recommend?

    • Edaurdo,

      Lots of questions here. What do you mean by “compressing the camber bushings”? How does the Bell Tech kit drop the front 4″? Shoot me a comment with that info and we’ll go from there!

      Mark

  11. Hi, I have an 04 Chevorlet Silverado 5.3L Single Cab 2wd and just order a 2/4 drop kit that includes coils, shackles, and hangers. Do I need to buy shocks to run this or will I be fine with the stock shocks and will I need anything else besides the listed parts?

    Thanks

    • Josh,

      I would recommend going with shorter shocks, because the coils will reduce your travel same for the hanger/shackle kit. You can use the factory length shocks for now if you need to, but they will become the “bump stops” in your suspension and you may notice a harsher ride. Plus this will beat your factory shocks pretty hard!

      Mark

  12. I am interested in the c10 lower control arms for my van, they use the same parts (Ball joints, bushings) except for the cross shaft (1.5″ for 1/2 ton,2″ for 3/4). Does anyone know the outer dimension for the bushings so I know that the arm can be assembled? I need 2 inches. I have no interest in rebuilding the factory arm, I want a 3 inch drop for now. I know this has been done on the g10’s. If less than 2 I could get a set of shafts from the bone yard and drop them off at the machine shop and copy your x shaft theory with the bolts. Running out of time, daily driver, need to rebuild.

    • John,

      I am not where I can measure the OD on the bushings for the C10 arms, but I think you can just remove and replace the factory arms with the Calmax arms for a C10, if you have a 3/4 or 1ton use the C30 arm. Does that answer you question? I am not sure I completely understand what your after?

      Mark

      • Understood. I keep eyeball’in the bushing pic, looks just shy. I’ll buy a set and maybe get lucky, if not just copy the x shaft and add 3/4 fine bolts to my cross shafts. Sorry should have said I have a G20. The G10 1/2 ton G20 3/4 ton G trucks use the same design as the C10 1/2 ton shaft with the regular nut. The C-G 10,30 trucks are the same you could swap parts all day (same tonnage). When it comes to the G20 it’s all c10 except GM gave it a oddball 2 ” shaft and 5 on 5 wheel hub to make it 3/4, The arms, bushings, ball joints are all the same part #’s. Thank you.

  13. Separately, I purchased what amounts to DJM 2555-3/4 in 2004. Unknowingly, I installed stock sway bar bushings and end links. This site shows 2555-3/4 with end links, but can’t find them separately. Do I need special end links (7″ bolts) or special ones because the front is lowered 3″?

    • Ron,

      You may be able to use your factory swaybar endlinks, but if you have trouble click here to find the endlinks that work with the 3″ Calmax arms you have!

      Good Luck.

      Msrk

  14. I have a 1985 C10. I am planning this summer to purchase and install the exact same kit as Stacey David used on project Knuckle Buster on his show Gearz. My question is this: I really like that paint/coating that DJM uses (at least on that kit) and I was wondering how I could go about getting that on the remainder of my steering/ front suspension components?

    • Ryan,

      Stacy really brought that C10 back to life! You will to and I would love to see pictures of your build!! The suspension parts are powder coated with a powder called Silver Vein Hammertone. You should talk to a local powder coating shop to see if they can paint your parts. Things like tie rod ends can’t be powder coated though because the process requires being baked in a very hot oven to make the powder flow and adhere to the parts, so anything with rubber boots or internal nylon bushings, etc can’t be powder coated. You can however get a pretty close look from spray paints at a Home Depot or hardware store. Rust-Oleum makes a Hammertone series of “rattlecan” paints that look very similar to the real thing and if you clean, prep with primer and carefully spray you could do a very good job of dressing up the rest of the front end! Send me a picture when your done, or better yet send pictures of how you do it so others can see how to get it done!!

      Mark

      • I will definitely do send pictures of the process I end up using. I am trying to sort out exactly the kit he used and what kind of spindles those were he used.

        • Ryan,

          Those spindles were part of the brake kit. They were modified to work with that particular brake upgrade system, we’ll have to watch again to see who made them I forget!!

          Mark

          • I will definitely keep an eye on this post to see if you are able to come back with an answer. The only other hiccup has been figuring out exactly which kit is was he used. The majority of the Chevy kits for 73-87’s all reference the Stacey David KnuckleBuster build. I have to say, one of my buddies built a truck a few years back using your products and that thing handled like crazy and was really comfortable. I just wish he had kept that thing..

          • Ryan,

            I went back to Stacy’s video and found he used a SSBC Brake system. Click here to find out more info!

            Good Luck!!

            Mark

  15. I own a 1991 Chevy Silverado C1500 standard cab 5.7v8. In 2004, I installed your DJM upper control arm CA2555U and Lower control arm CA2555L3 (3″ drop). In the rear I installed your hanger and shackle kit HS11214 (4″ drop).
    I can’t remember why, but I didn’t install your shocks that go with these lowering part numbers front and rear.
    After cruising your site, Before I order, I would like to know if these are the correct shocks. 1415 Calmax Supershox for the front. 2200 Calmax Supershox for the rear.
    I also have to replace the front sway bar bushings. I’m finding BK2555L. Is this the correct bushing set?
    Please advise me that I’m ordering the correct shocks and bushings.
    Thank you very much…Ron

    • Ron,

      Thanks for choosing DJM to lower your truck! You are correct about the shock numbers, just use a pair of 1415’s in the front and a pair of 2200’s for your rear. Regarding the bushings, the part number BK2555L is a bushing replacement kit for the lower control arms, that won’t work for the swaybar. We don’t have replacement bushings for your swaybar, but I think you can find them at Prothane, they make replacement urethane parts for almost everything! Good luck and let me know if that worked for you!!

      Mark

  16. hi, I have a 08 Tacoma with your kit, but my right lower control arm is damaged. how can I get a replacement part? thankyou

  17. Hi. I am planning to drop my truck soon, and have a few questions.
    My truck is a 2005 Silverado, 1/2 ton, standard cab, short box with a 6 cylinder and a Leer cab height canopy. I am running 20’s and would like to use the 5/7+ full kit plus shocks and F/R sway bars. I am concerned about the rear ending up lower than the front, as with the extra weight of the canopy, it currently sits very close to level. I would not mind a slight nose down attitude, but would ideally like it to be level. Any advise? TIA.

    • Dallas,

      Sounds like you should just use the 6″ flip kit for the rear instead of the 7″ kit. You can go lower if you need to after you have the whole kit installed but you will never know exactly where your truck will sit until you lower. So do the 5/6 drop and then decide if you need to go down a little more in the rear! All you would need to do is add a pair of drop shackles to the rear end, but you probably won’t need it!

      Mark

  18. Hello again, thanks for the response. I had the 97 1500 and was inquiring about the 5/7 drop on factory 15×7 wheels with 255/70/R15, you responded that this would be really low and I might have clearance issues with the wheels as well as exhaust cross pipe.My next line of thinking is that this kit is due to arrive Thursday and like a kid at Christmas I’m chopping at the bit to install it over the weekend. I have the back covered zi will only lower it 6″ instead of 7″ but on the front I went with 2″ lower control arms and a 3″ lowering spring to do a 5″ drop. Well I really don’t want to have to wait and send back the 3″ spring and then wait for the 2″ spring to come to do a 4″ drop in the front. I know I can get a 1″ spring spacer for $50.00 a set but that seems steep for two pieces of aluminum and if my memory serves me correctly I read somewhere on here that you could put heater hose on the spring for 1/2″ rise. Do you think this would work for me? that would make it a 4.5″/6″ drop or should I just force myself to wait and get the spacers or the 2″ lowering springs? Sorry to be alot of trouble and thanks again for your time!

    • Hey Zack,

      Thanks for getting back! I don’t want to discourage you from your plan. My thoughts were to give you a heads up on potential problems that might trip you up. Setting in my room here with no windows I have a hard time seeing exactly what your looking at, don’t let me talk you out of your plan! You already know that using the factory shackles in the rear with the flip kit will give you a six inch drop and if you want to go lower just install a pair of 2″ shackles using the inside holes for that 7″ drop. Concerning the front you are absolutely right about the “heater hose” trick. For much less than $50 you can “pick up” the front end using the hose as a spring spacer. Just buy 18″ of good thick walled heater hose and slice it down the middle like you were cleaning a fish, tape it to the bottom coil and you will get around 3/4″ of lift in the front. Not only does this lift you up a little but it helps you maintain a good alignment if that becomes an issue! But, having said that, you can do these things after you have installed the 5/7! The only cost you have is your labor, so don’t worry too much and install the kit this weekend! I will watch here to see if you have any other issues, and send me a picture when your done!!

      Mark

  19. I am looking to lower my 1976 Ford f100 2wd. The previous owner moved the rear hangers and used lowering shackles to drop the rear about 3 inches. I like the look of the truck just want it a few inches lower. Do you recommend a full kit or can I get away with just the 3 inch drop i-beams?

    • Jason,

      Sure just install the I-beams in the front for a 3″ drop and away you go. You don’t know exactly how much the rear is lowered though so you may have to monkey around with it to get your stance, but I bet you have somewhere between 3 to 4″ of drop in the rear. Sounds like your already half-way there!

      Mark

  20. I have a 97 chevy 1500 ext cab and want to lower my truck 5/7 so I ordered your 2″ lower control arms and 3″ lowering springs,1315 shocks, flip kit and c notch. My question is Im running 15×7 stock wheels with 255/70/R15
    am I gonna have any problems with clearance with this setup and would it be too low as an everday driver. Thanks in advance

    • Hey Zack,

      A 5/7 kit on your 97 is pretty low. I would think you will have some problems with your wheels and overall ground clearance. You will probably find yourself “pussyfooting around” especially at first as you get used to a new driving style. Be careful of your factory exhaust crossover pipe. It will be able to hit the ground with a 5/7 kit and if your not careful you can smash it almost flat creating alot of back-pressure in your exhaust making the engine run poorly. Many people have used a 5/7 drop on their daily driver but they did have to change the way they drive! Good Luck.

      Mark

  21. I have a 2014 single cab Silverado and a DJM 4/7 drop to be installed. What suggestions you have on a tire for a 20×10 wheels in front and 20×11 in the rear. Would love to get a 315/40/20 or 305/40/20. What problems do you see if any? Thanks again.

    • Jr,

      Heres the deal with wheel and tires. If you stick to the factory wheel and tire diameter when you upgrade then you will have no problem. For example, lets say your factory wheel and tire’s diameter is 30″ and you wanted those 315/40/20’s and their overall diameter was 30″, your gold. With a 4/7 drop you need to pay close attention to the wheel and tire size. Talk to your local tire guy and see if you can find out how close you can get with what you want. If your choice is bigger you will have less travel and you may have something, somewhere, making contact!

      Mark

  22. I have your 4/6 drop kit with control arms & flip kit (plus gas shocks)on my 1990 454ss p/u.Its been sitting in the garage for 15 years.Im restoring it a lil now.I remember it handled and rode well with your kit.The only issue I had was the Easley bottoming out of the front end.This is probably because of the heavy big block engine.Is there anything I can do to stiffen up the front ? If I had stock control arms id just install a couple air bags instead of the coil springs.But that requires a couple plates for the bags to sit on.and I don’t think anyone makes those for your control arms.How about 4 gas shocks up front,instead of 2.Or some Ride Tech super shocks ? Alum heads might help but pricey.thank for your time. Randy T.

    • Randy,

      Your thinking to reduce the weight in the front end is good, but like you say it’s expensive and you probably can’t loose enough weight to solve your problem. Question – can you lift the front maybe an inch without loosing “The Stance”? Let me know, if you can we might be able to get you the ride you want and still look good! Talk to you soon.

      Mark

  23. Planning on getting a 4/6 kit for my 06 Gmc truck it came with a lower shackle do recommend I get a factory one for the flip kit

    • Albert, Yes you should put a factory shackle back on. if you don’t you will have a 7 or 8″ drop which might look a little silly because the front will be to high, and it might not ride to good either. Great Question!!

      Mark

  24. I am having my 2003 Chevy Silverado 1500HD with a 6/8 DJM kit. What size rims&tires fit on the truck, including offset?

    • Blaine,

      I don’t know all the wheel and tire combo’s that exist out there, but the rule of thumb is if you don’t deviate from the factory wheel and tire overall diameter and offset then your gold. So what that means is for example if the diameter of the factory wheel and tire is 30″ (this is an example only) and you can go from a 15″ wheel with 60 series tires to a 20″ wheel with 45 series tires and still be at a 30″ diameter then you have no worries. On your truck a 6/8 drop is very low and you need to pay close attention to what your choose. in fact I would find a good wheel and tire guy to help you research. They are experts with wheel and tire combo’s and some of them know alot about drop kits too! Good luck and send me a picture when your done!!!

      Mark

  25. I have a 2005 toyota x runner with sittin sick 2 inch drop coils on the front. Iwant to add the 3/4 lowering kit.One person said they did this and were able to get the front ailignment within the correct specs. Do you see any other problems with this set up?

    • Wade,

      I don’t know, it’s possible to add the 3″ arms to the front and still align but my gut tells me no. If you end up with a little negative camber it’s not the end of the world, in fact a 1/4 degree of negative can improve cornering! But you will have to try it to see what happens. The worst case is you have to pick the front end up to get things square but you will never know until you try! Let me know what happens, I’ll bet others are wondering too!!

      Mark

  26. I just ordered your 4/7 drop for my 2011 GMC Sierra, I just have a couple questions. First do I have to get an alignment after the kit is installed? Second I bought 2 calmax shocks for the back, do I need to get shocks for the front as well?

    • Erik,

      You should always get an alignment when you do this type of work. If you disassembled your front suspension and then put it back together right away, with the same parts, you would need to have an full alignment done. Regarding the shocks, the fronts are “Macphereson Struts” which incorporate the coil spring,shock absorber, and vertical support into one unit. Stay with the factory units and your good. In the rear the 2 shocks you ordered are traditional truck shocks and are the correct length for the rear lowering kit you are going to install!

      Good luck and send a picture!
      Mark

  27. Hello i have an 1982 ford f 150 which has ball joints in the factory beams. i was wondering if the ones for an 83 will works?

    • Andrew,

      If your beams are equal length maybe? I can’t tell you for sure. A lot of guys have thought about what your thinking but I haven’t talked to anyone who has made it work. That’s not to say it can’t be done, just don’t want to give you bad advise.

      Mark

  28. So I just purchased the 4/6 drop kit from djm for my 06 silverado ext cab with the lower control arms and after installing everything my front is sitting lower than my back. I love the way the back looks but it is not level with the front. The front is sitting about 1 inch or so lower and is still cambered in after getting it aligned. I’m going to purchase the upper control arms to see if it helps any and maybe raises it up.. also I have lost a good bit of steering with it. I’ve read that people would rather go without the Control arms and go the other route but I thought it would be better with. If you have any idea on what the problem could be or how to fix it I’d greatly appreciate the answer! I’m running 20 inch rims with 45 series tires also. Maybe I need new springs ? Idk . Very unsure. Any help would be appreciated. Please email back with response.

    • Also I was maybe looking to put 22s on my truck instead of the 20s but it doesn’t look like I’ll be able to fit them now with the front being so low. I’d rather not have them tucking in the fender well and rub every time I turn. Would it be even possible to get 22s to fit now? Other people have them but for some reason it just doesn’t look like they will fit my truck. Also if they do fit. Would it pick up the truck any coming from 20s with 45 series to 22s with 35 series?

      • Garrett,

        Solve your ride height in the front and you should be able to run the 22″ wheels if the offset is correct.

        Mark

    • Garrett,

      If your front is low and you have negative camber, then your springs are suspect. The upper arm will help with alignment but will not raise the front end! Make sure you have factory springs that have not been modified. If you need to, you can shim the front coils with a spacer, a 1/2″ spacer will give you about 3/4″ or maybe a little more lift in the front. That might solve all your problems! Let me know what happens!

      Mark

      • One of the reasons I changed my suspension out is because my shocks were going bad and bouncing on the interstate real bad. Maybe it could of been the shocks going bad too? Because they are the stock shocks and haven’t been modified. The truck has 140k miles on it and they probably need to be replaced. Do i just get another set of normal shocks or do I need lowering shocks to compensate with the kit?

        • Garrett,

          Your shocks are definitely eligible for retirement! They can cause a crappy ride if their shot and the stock length shocks are too short in the rear, so you can help your self buy replacing them. In the same vein coil springs have a life cycle too. 140,000 miles is a lot but it doesn’t mean your springs are bad, just that they may be a little tired. You can replace them with factory replacement springs, or like we talked about use a spring spacer. You can get spacers at a NAPA or a good auto parts store that will fit your Chevy, and if you go that route I would recommend a 1/2″ spacer as we discussed. That will get you pretty close to that inch of lift you want in the front and work magic on your alignment. Click here to see the right shocks for your truck! Let me know what happens!!

          Mark

          • Well I actually did change the shocks when I lowered it to the drop shocks so everything is new except the springs and the upper control arms which I just ordered. Which leads me to believe just like you said the spring could be bad. So ill just go to orielly and get new springs since those will work. I’ll keep you updated and appriciate the quick responses and help!

          • Garrett,

            If your going to get new springs you shouldn’t need to mess with spacers. Just be sure to get good ride height measurements before you replace the springs so you can gauge what happens!

            Mark

          • So 850$ later with new coil springs and spacers plus new upper control arms. My truck is no longer cambered but still is not leveled with the back. I think I’ve pretty much done everything I can to pick my front end up but little luck. Might have brought it up a hair but I think that’s all I’m getting. Also my drivers side sits lower than my passenger. Not sure why.. some people are telling me to bring it back to the place to make sure the control arm is right and on right and others say it’s the “chevy lean”..

          • Garrett

            Trucks don’t have their weight evenly distributed form side to side. The gas tank is on one side as well as other items. So your truck had the lean before you started (why we like to get good before measurements). You also don’t notice the lean at stock height but it sticks out like a sore thumb when lowered. You can either put a thicker shim on the drivers side or use a length of heater hose and slice it down the middle, tape to the end of the spring on the drivers side and it will act as a shim and give you a little more lift. It will also help with the lean, and don’t worry it is a problem for all pick ups!

            Mark

  29. I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado LS 5.3L 4 Dr Crew Cab 2wd. I need to replace my sway bar bushings and end linkage, and was wondering how can I tell what size of sway bar I have.

    • Chris,

      If your running the factory bar you can use factory replacement bushings and end links, if you have an aftermarket bar you need to measure the diameter of the sway-bar and decide if the bushings are “factory type” or something special included with the sway-bar kit. The best way to get an accurate diameter is to use calipers, but you can use a ruler or tape if your careful. The important thing about the end links is the length, find an endlink kit that is the same length and you should be ok!

      Mark

  30. Hey I have a question on my 1990 Chevy Silverado c1500 with the djm flip kit.. I have 2in drop shackles and the 6in flip kit I’ve change the shock to the belltec street performance shock n it still ride very bounce in the rear.. I’m outta option on this. Any help would be very useful pls!!.. Thanks for your time

    • John,

      If you are running with the 6″ flip kit and 2″ shackles you just don’t have enough suspension travel for a good ride, plus your rear shocks may be too long. I am guessing a little but I think the prime extended length for your 8″ of drop would be about 19″, if your shocks are much longer (say 22″) then they could be restricting suspension travel as well. You might consider going back to a factory shackle or shorter shocks. Let me know what you decide!

      Mark

  31. I am interested in your 3″/4″ suspension kit for my 1967 F100 2wd shortbed, along with the recommended 1415 and 1900 shocks. My differential is currently flipped, but I would like to put it back under the springs and “un-notch” the frame.
    Do the rear shocks need mount extenders on the differential-end like some other brands, or is it “mount-and-go”? Also, with the travel being shortened, are these shocks adequate in length to prevent bottoming out or overextending, granted there are no other modifications?
    Thank you!

    • Nic,

      How are you going to “un-notch” your frame? If you have cut the frame you would want to reinforce the frame at that point! Regarding the rear shocks they mount in the factory mounts and they are the correct length to work with the 4″ hanger & shackle kit for your Ford F100. All the parts for the 3/4 kit are remove and replace parts. That hardest thing would be removing the original leaf spring eye hangers, but the lowering hangers bolt up to the factory holes! Here is a link to those parts! Let me know how it goes and send a picture!!

      Mark

  32. I just bought a stock 2011 chevy Silverado lt extended cab 5.3 6ft bed, want to know what the lowest I can go with bolt on, keep factory ride, and still install 22s. And of course what parts do your recommend for this job.

    Thanks
    Matt

    • Matthew,

      You can drop your 2011 Silverado 4″ in the front and 7″ in the rear with bolt on parts, still run factory alignment and use 22″s if the overall tire and wheel diameter isn’t any larger than the factory tire and wheel combination. Meaning you’ll have no wheel clearance issues if your 22″s aren’t bigger than the stock combo, if they are then at some point you will have a rubbing issue somewhere. Here is a link to the kit that gives the 4/7″ drop!!

      Mark

  33. If i get the upper and lower control arms for the 4 inch drop on my 09 silverado will i have to change the front shocks or can keep factory shocks?

    • Emilio,

      On your 09 Silverado, you can keep your factory struts and use the 4″ Calmax control arm system. The whole front end is designed around the factory strut and steering knuckle.

      Mark

    • Emilio,

      Provided your 09 Silverado is a 2WD, I would recommend using the DJM Calmax control arms to drop your front end 4″. You can check them out here. The 4″ kit are a combo of upper and lower arms that will get you the 4 inches and be fully alignable. Good luck and send us a picture when your done!!

      Mark

  34. hey guys,i have a std cab 08 4×2 silverado.im currently running 24’s under it right now,tucked in w/no problems as far as turning etc.i would like to do a 2/4 drop on it which the tech recommended would be a safe height.he did indicate that the rear end is crazy high in the rear.should i still go w/the shock for the rear thats recommended[2200]or go with the 2100 since it starts at 5-7 inches.and should i go ahead and change the factory struts on it to accommodate the new kit and new rear shocks.thx bo

    • Bo,

      If your doing the 2/4 kit I would stick with the 2200 shock, although there is only about 1″ of stroke difference between the two (2100 is shorter). If you use the Calmax control arms in the front nothing changes length wise for your struts, if you use the coil springs the factory length struts are still fine especially when you consider the cost of modified struts. 24″s are big and expensive so be careful especially in the front! Good luck and send some pictures!!

      Mark

  35. I have a 1983 F-150 two wheel drive. I want to lower the truck either 2″to 3″ in the front and 3″to 4″ in the rear. My question is your kit all I need and still have a comfortable and good driving vehicle. The only other thing I am planning to do is change the wheel size to 18″ 8′ on the front and 18′ by 10″ on the rear without any problems.

    • Kenny,

      You can do the 3/4 kit and still have a stock ride! And your wheels should work fine as well (as long as they are the correct offset). You will see a noticeable drop but not be slammed on the ground, you can drive “normally”, get normal tire wear, and look good! Send us a picure.

      Mark

  36. I have a question about my 2014 gmc sierra. I put a leveling kit on the truck, but it doesnt really level it like the older models. I was told by the guy who owns this lowering shop around the way that if I was to lower it 3/5 that it would loose torque for towing. Is this true? And if not, can you recommend a good product?

    Thanks

    • Steve,

      You won’t lose “torque” or load carrying capacity, but you will lose suspension travel. So depending on what your load is and how your carrying it, suspension travel may be a factor. For example if you have a heavy load in the bed, loss of travel would be a problem because the heavy load will put you on the bump stops faster than stock height. If your pulling a trailer with a lot of weight then travel won’t matter as much unless you have a tremendous amount of tongue weight. How do you plan to use your new Sierra?

      Mark

  37. I have a 2014 Silverado crew cab short bed with a 5.3L with 20″ wheels and I want a 3-5 drop. I ordered the following part numbers from Stylin’ Trucks. I ordered the parts separate because their website did not show a complete kit for my truck. I ordered the following part numbers for a 2007 Silverado.
    2100 Calmax Shocks x2
    CA2007-3
    RK2507-5
    Is this the only items I need to complete the change over and will it work?

    • Richard,

      Sorry about getting back so late, missed your question! Yep that is all you need for a 3/5 drop. Guys like Stylin or Summitt Racing don’t have full kit part numbers because we can’t put an entire kit in one box and still ship UPS or Fed-Ex. So they list all the component parts for you. Good Luck

      Mark

  38. Hi I have a 86 swb c10 with a 305 running 275/40/17’s wanting to do a 5/7 drop on it i have found the 5/5 kit listed on the site. What I need to know is you offer drop leaf springs to combine with this kit to get the desired drop. Want the flip kit

    • Chris,

      Sorry we don’t make lowered leafs. They will lower your truck just fine but don’t ride good. We tried several different designs just didn’t like what we got. If you go more than the 5″ flip you might run out of room between your axle and frame. Because the frame on your truck does bend up and over the axle you have a lot of room, still you should keep an eye on that!

      Mark

  39. Hello….

    I have a 1999 GMC Sonoma sls 2.2L 4cyl extended cab with 225/40R18 tires. The part # DJM2031-4/4 fits in my car? Is necessary to buy the 1315 and 2400 Calmax supershox ?

    Thanks…

    • Napoleon,

      This kit on your truck does not require shorter shocks! So if you have a good set of shocks, no problem. On the S-10/Sonoma trucks you can get by with stock length shocks, keep if mind however if you need or want new shocks those are the correct part numbers!!

      Mark

  40. Hello, I recently installed a belttech 3/4 lowering kit on my 2003 Chevy Silverado 1500 v6 2WD. Coils in the front along with new upper and lower control arms, ball joints, and tie rods. For the rear, shackles and hangers. So the problem I have ran into is that the rear end has shifted over to the passengers side about an inch causing the rear right tire to rub against the fender. I’ve searched this problem online and there have been reports of this happening when the vehicle is lowered but no one seems to have a solution. The truck has not been wrecked. I have taken it to a body shop and an alignment shop and they couldn’t figure out what was wrong with it either. What causes this shift and is there a way to fix it?

    • Josue,

      Not being familiar with the Bell Tech kit I will assume that it is a hanger/shackle type lowering kit. If that is true (even if it’s not) I cannot without seeing pictures or having more info think of any reason why you would have that issue. Do you have any pictures?

      Mark

  41. Looking for recommendations on a drop kit I would like a 4/4 on a 98 f150 with out c-notch and keeping the same size rear shock would this be possible?
    Thanks

  42. Good evening, I have a 3/4 drop on my 2014 Chevy Silverado using the after market upper and lower control arms but I have 2 questions: First, the front end has a squishing sound while going over a dip or speed bump, have you heard of this yet? Second, when I back up my brakes ckunk or something is clunking in the front endbut only when I back up, any thoughts? Thank you in advance..

    • Rob,

      The squishing sound could be fluid noise from the shocks, but it is not a common issue. The clunking sound is also uncommon, I would look at your brake calipers & pads making sure that everything is in its proper place and tight. Let me know what you find out!

      Mark

  43. Hi…I am building a pro touring/street truck. It is a 1988 Chevy, C1500. I am going to do your 4/6 drop with the upper/lower control arms, flip, and notch. My question is will the flip kit work with an axle from a 3/4 ton truck? I am going to run a 14 bolt axle instead of the 12 bolt. Thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!!! Eric

    • Eric,

      The answer to your question depends on if the 3/4 ton rear end has a 5 lug or an 8 lug wheel lug pattern. If it is a 5 lug then no worries, if it is a 8 lug then your rear axle has a larger diameter than the 5 lug and the flip won’t work. We make a 4″ shackle and hanger kit for the 8 lug rear end. Hopefully your 3/4 ton rear end is a 5 lug!

      Mark

  44. I recently installed a 4/7 lowering kit on my 2014 gmc sierra. Unfortunately I’ve been having some issues when i’m on the freeway. It begins to vibrate when i hit 65-70 to the point where it almost feels like my truck is falling apart.I don’t know what the problem could be. I’m wondering if the kit was installed incorrectly or maybe there is a problem with my pinion angle. Any ideas?

    • Denisse,

      Sounds like you may need to adjust your pinion angle. A high speed vibration like that is usually either pinion or wheel balance! Your rear kit allows you to rotate or “adjust” the pinion angle with out have to install a shim or buy any other parts!!

      Mark

  45. i ment wheel spacer for the front that are 1 1/2 inch thick and wheel spacers in the rear that are 1 1/4 inch thick.

    Cooper

    • Cooper,

      I would not run spacers that thick! That leverages the load on the hubs a-lot! Just don’t recommend doing that, sorry about this news!

      Mark

  46. Hi guys, I have a 1981 Dodge Ram D150. What can you suggest I can do to do a mild lowering? There is a several inch gap between the top of the tire and the wheel opening and I would like to reduce that. Thanks

    • Robert,

      Well, you have a truck that I have driven years ago but can’t tell you what parts might fit! We have never had an 80’s Dodge in the R&D shop to see what if anything we make might work. So I am afraid I have nothing but bad news for you, sorry! Don’t give up though, the internet is a wonderful thing!!

      Mark

  47. I have a 97 ranger with your lowering I beams and flipped u bolts and was thinking about getting wheel spacers. 11/2 in front and 11/4 in rear was wondering if you knew how much stress that would cause on my hubs since im not offloading it but I do canyon run it quite a bit.
    Thanks, cooper

    • Cooper,

      As a rule wheel spacers are not a great idea, but I need to know what you mean by 1 1/2 in the front and 1 1/4 in the rear. Please let me know what these numbers represent!

      Thanks,
      Mark

  48. I have a 99 Silverado and I was wondering if you could tell me if I will be able to fit 24″ wheels on it with the 4/6+ drop kit?

    • Louis,

      Wow, 24’s are very big wheels! We have never had a truck in the shop with 24’s but I can tell you that if you don’t exceed the overall factory wheel and tire diameter you have nothing to worry about. If your diameter is larger than factory then you will at some point have a contact issue. I just don’t know when that will occur! If your close to the factory diameter (within a couple of inches) than you can probably get away with it but I can’t tell you how much of a problem you may encounter. We don’t get to see all the wheel and tire combo’s and usually when we prototype a suspension is on a completely stock truck with factory wheels and tires. You might check with the guy you purchased the wheels from, often the wheel and tire guys are more knowledgeable about wheel fitment with lowering kits than we are!!

      Good Luck, and send us some pictures!!!

      Mark

  49. i have a 1997 gmc sierra single cab short bed step side
    i am looking to dropp the truck as much as possible but to sit leveled out.
    but dont want to c-notch the frame.
    i bought the truck obviouly to haul stuff around the house when needed maybe even a small trailer. so i want stiff enough to hadle the load and not jumpy
    how would i go about this? thinking of doing 20 inch wheels
    thanks again

    • Joshua,

      You can do a 2/4 or a 3/4 drop without having to “C” notch the frame. You can check out the kits here, you would be using a hanger and shackle set up in the rear for a 4″ drop that will allow you to haul and tow pretty much like stock. You will have 4″ less travel of course so if you really load her up you will be on your bump stops sooner! By the way 20″ wheels should be no problem!! Good Luck.

      Mark

    • Freddy,

      You are wise to be careful about notching your frame. On your 2014, the frame is tricky to reinforce after you cut into it. We have built all of our rear kits for the 2014 Silverado without a “c” notch, so you can use any kit we make and not worry about cutting your frame. Click here to see the kits for the 2014!

      Mark

      • I also have a 2014 SCSB Sierra and in looking at the flip kits, it looks like the kit fits the older trucks as well. With this kit on the 2014 is there any issue with the driveshaft needing to be shortened? Also does the kit keep the rear wheels centered in the wheel well?

        • Zac,

          You don’t have to shorten the drive shaft because the kit moves the rear axle back away from the transmission about .75″. A typical attribute of flip kits, now because it does move the axle back your wheels are not in the exact center of the wheel well! In order to keep your wheels absolutely centered you would have to shorten your drive shaft. A tough situation but normally not an issue!

          Mark

    • Forgot to mention, also this is a long bed with the 2 piece driveshaft with the bearing/support hanger in the middle. Anyone have any suggestions to deal with ujoint angles? Don’t want any vibes after I’m lowered

    • Mike,

      Those are great looking wheels! If you stick to the same offset as your factory wheel and do not have an overall diameter (wheel + tire) bigger than your original wheel/tire combo then your good to go! We don’t get to see alot of wheel and tire combo’s here and a good wheel guy would know more about this than us. It also is smart to lower first then shop for wheels/tires if your unsure. Because generally the cost of wheels/tires is quite abit more than the lowering kit it really stinks on ice to spend a big chunk of cash on wheel/tires only to find out if you lower your truck the wheels hit!

      Regarding the drive shaft, we have not built a kit or part to reposition the carrier bearing for your Effie. If you were to have a slight vibration at very low speeds that carrier bearing is almost always the culprit. What seems to work in other situations is to move the carrier bearing up towards the bed of the truck. This is usually done by shimming the bearing up between 1/2 to 1.0″. But chances are you won’t have to deal with that at all! Good Luck and send us a picture!

      Mark

  50. I have a 94 silverado 5/7 drop with springs lower control arms and a flip kit and pressed leaf springs in the rear. I’m riding on 20 inch wheels. When I take a turn most vehicles will re align itself with the road. I have to actually drive the truck. Would this have something to do with the alignment?

    • Jared,

      Yes, your truck should “self center” when you let go of the steering wheel after a sharp turn. If it does not, check your alignment there is probably something that needs adjusting!

      Mark

  51. I just recently purchased the DJM and CalMax 4/6 drop kit, I’ve yet to install it… hopefully time permits in a week or two!!

    My vehicle is a 2011 Silverado, Extended cab, 6.5′ bed, 2wd, 5.3L.

    My question is regarding the addition of one of your rear anti-sway bars. From what I’ve read you guys have designed the bar to work with the lowered suspension but I wanted to know if I will run into clearance/mounting issues with the factory spare tire and factory tow hitch receiver?

    Also, I’ve already contemplated the addition of some helper tow air-bags in the future just incase I need to keep the back end from squatting too much with a trailer. Any idea about clearance/mounting issues with the use of all of these parts?

    Any recommendations of helper tow air-bags or other parts would be greatly appreciated as well!

    Thanks for your time!
    -Skyler

    • Skyler,

      You should be fine with the spare tire and hitch! Be sure to check out the instructions (you can get them here). Regarding towing your trailer, helper air bags are a good choice also consider a weight distributing hitch! These babies will help keep you level and you can fine tune the load on the hitch for better balance while towing.

      Mark

    • Craig,

      There are two schools of thought on dropping a 88-98 C1500, spindles or control arms. Click here to see the choice of kits!

      Either way you pick will work great, if your going to run 15″ wheels and drop with a spindle you will need to trim your factory lower control arm a little to avoid contact with the wheel. If you choose control arms you will have improved ball joint angles
      and more latitude with alignment. While these things are important, they are small issues and if I gave you a blindfold test you would not be able to tell the difference by looking or riding in your truck. Good luck and you will be happy either way!

      Mark

      • Thanks for the response. I will be running a 17×8 with 245/45/17’s. With that info what is the best choice for this set up. Thanks

          • Craig,

            Well, it really doesn’t matter much. If you choose spindles you have to remove brakes and wheel-bearings so there is a bit more labor, but if your not doing the labor it really is 6 of one and 1/2 dozen of the other! Good Luck!!

            Mark

  52. I recently dropped my 05 tahoe 2/3 inches. I am done but need an alignment so I went to pepboys. The guy recommended me not to do it there because it’s not stock height and it would throw off their computer. My question is where can I get an alignment done right for lowered suvs?

    • Carlos,

      We feel your pain! You can have your Tahoe aligned to factory specs if you can find an alignment shop who know how to align. Have to admit I have never heard of a lowered truck throwing off alignment equipment but there is alway a first for everything!! If you live in the LA area I can help you to find a good shop but beyond that I can’t help alot! Let me know where you live and lets see!!

      Mark

      • I live in Norwalk and work in Paramount. So yeah LA county area. I found a spot by my job. 85 bucks but the use gages not the computer so I’m unsure of that spot. Any suggestions?

        • Carlos,

          It has been our experience that the old fashioned way is still the best. You can check out Pro Designs HotRods, ask for Mike and he can refer you to a alignment shop that specializes in lowered trucks and suv’s. Plus Pro Designs is a great place for installs and custom builds!! Good luck. let me know how it goes.

          Mark

    • Gil,

      We do not build a 3/5 kit for your Trailblazer, but we do make a 2/4 kit which you can see here, also you should check out the TBSS Owners forum (TrailBlazer SS). They have forgotten more than I know about Trialblazers, click here to check them out! Hope this helps!!

      Mark

  53. I have a 1998 Chevy 2500 with 6 lug axles. What would you recommend to do a 2″/4″ drop. Any info would be appreciated.

    • Mike,

      You can use any parts or kits designed for the 5 lug trucks! Here are all the kits that will work on your truck, the best I think is the Control Arm kit, DJM2555-2/4, followed by the DJM2056-2/4, and the least expensive is the DJM2351-2/4. Control arms or drop spindles will give you the better ride while the coil spring set up is the easiest on your wallet! Let me know what you decide!!

      Mark

  54. I have a 2013 sierra… I’m putting 26″ rims and will run 30 series tires… would I be safe with the 4/6 drop or would I be better off with the 3/5

    • Courtney,

      If your 26″ wheels with the 30 series tire are the same diameter (or smaller) you should be good. We have never had that wheel/tire combo here in the shop but the rule of thumb is if you don’t exceed the factory wheel/tire diameter or change from the factory offset you can do what ever you want!

      Mark

  55. Hello, I have a 2014 Sierra 1500 2wd. It is a full size Crew cab with the standard bed (not short bed). I have the 4/6 DJM lowering kit installed on it now. I am having an issue with vibrations while accelerating especially around 55 mph and up. When you let off gas the vibes die off but come back when accelerating. The shop that did the install says the pinion angle is good but the two piece drive shaft looks like it may not be aligned straight. I did a little researching and found where a carrier bearing adjustment may need to be made to lift the carrier up towards the truck. Do you think this would help me and if so is there a kit for the 2014s to do this? Thanks in advance for a reply i would like to get this figured out before something is damaged.

    • Dave,

      Usually a higher speed vibration can be caused by pinion angle. The carrier bearing will typically cause a 0-15mph vibration. Your 6″ flip kit allows you to adjust the pinion angle without having to purchase any additional parts. Refer to your installation instructions to see how to adjust your pinion angle or click here for a new set of instructions!

      Mark

  56. I have a 2007 Mazda B4000 4wd with front torsion bar suspension (same as Ranger). I installed lowering torsion keys that lowered the front by 3″ and installed your 3″ rear flip kit (lowered back by total of 5″ with removal of leaf spring spacer). I went through a set of front tires quickly and recently had the Specialty Products Caster/Camber bolts installed, but still cannot align properly. Alignment shop says I need adjustable upper control arms to correct. I am already well on the way of ruining second set of tires. Can you help? Apparently, your upper arms for Ranger/Mazda only work for coil spring front ends. Thanks very much.

    • Steve,

      Well, it sounds like you have an excessive amount of negative camber (tops of your tires leaning in). Negative camber is what happens generally when you lower a front suspension of almost any kind, it would explain your poor tire wear. I do not know if our upper control arms would work on your 4WD. You may be able to cross reference part numbers between 2 and 4WD with Ford or Mazda, or if you have a buddy at a NAPA store or any hard parts store who might take the time to check their factory replacement parts catalogs. I don’t have access to a 4WD to see here! Good luck and let me know what you find out!

      Mark

  57. I’m planning on lowering my 05 tahoe with the 2/3″drop. The only concern I have is the tahoe not being level after the job is done. The back is a bit higher then the front right now so I’m concerned about that. Would I be able to drop the back 4″ to be level with the front after the 2″drop? If so how I only see a two inch drop in the front and a three inch drop for the rear on the web site for tahoes.

    • Carlos,

      We have over time come to find the 00-06 Tahoe when lowered more than 3″ in the rear starts to ride poorly. We make a 5″ spring thats works fine in a Suburban but rides rough in a Tahoe. The 3″ spring generally rides good and often gets you a little more than 3″ depending on the condition of the Tahoe they are installed in. You can also “fine tune” the front a little if you need. Lets say the rear is slightly higher and because the 00-06 Tahoes have a torsion bar front end you can adjust the torsion bars a small amount to bring the front up to level!

      Mark

  58. do you guys sell c-notch kits? I have a 2003 dodge ram reg cab and i bought your 4/6 kit and I want to go lower it seems to bottom out a little.Thanks

    • Hi Al!,

      No we do not have a c-notch kit for your Ram. I am thinking the frame is a “box” type and would be tricky to cut into. Be very careful if you go ahead and modify, make sure your not compromising strength! Let us know what you end up doing!!

      Mark

  59. Hi , just purchased a 96 Ford Ranger and looking for a lowering kit . Have been looking at your kit http://djmsuspension.com/products/djm3001-34/, which seems to be ideal,but want to do it once only , so wondered if you could advise on shocks required , front and rear , to complete the installation .
    Could you please let me know costs including shipping to UK .

    Many thanks

    Pete

    • Pete,

      Glad to hear from “across the pond”! The proper shocks for your lowered Ranger are a pair of part number 1415 (front) and 1900 (rear). Those shocks and the DJM3001-3/4 kit is all you will need! Just now I am not in a place where I can get a freight quote, I will find out what UPS or DHL will charge to ship the merchandise to you shortly!

      Mark

  60. I have a 2014 GMC 1500 2WD. I have factory 22s with the factory 285/45/22 tires. I recently had a 4/6 lowering kit from DJM installed. The truck looks stunning but there is a lot of rub on the back of the fender well when the tire is turned and hits the top of fender well at the slightest bump in the road. Is the factory tire to tall? What or my options to alleviate some of the rubbing at the rear and top of fender well.
    Thanks in advance for a reply.

    • David,

      That’s a very big wheel/tire combo for the front! Back in the old days when the 4/6 concept became popular there were no 22″ wheels especially from the factory! The only way to effect your situation is to try a 245/45/22 it still will probably rub but not as much. Or you can raise the front to a 2″ drop, then the rear would need to come up also to keep the stance. There just is not enough room in any pick up to drop the front 4″ and run a 22″ tire that big. I no it’s not the news you were looking for but those are your only good options.

      Mark

      • Thanks for the reply Mark, fyi I put some 285/35/22 tires and hardly have any rub at all now on the front fender wells.

  61. Hello I have a 97 dodge ram 1500. I dropped the truck using the 4/6 you guys supply. I was wondering if I could lower any more?
    Thanks
    Manny

    • Manny,

      The 4/6 drop on your Ram is as far as we go with off the shelf parts. To go lower will mean probably custom parts and a loss of ride quality and alignment problems. Generally the guys who drop beyond the “normal” are going to show their trucks and don’t worry about the alignment and ride quality as much as guys who drive their lowered trucks every day! So if you depend on it for daily driving be real careful about what you do, but if you can make it a project that does not have to be driven everyday you can experiment!

      Mark

  62. I have a 05 chevy tahoe and wanted to lower it 2″ in the front and 3″ for the rear. Do I still need the shock extenders if I change the shocks as well and do you guys carry the shocks for the front if I only use the torsion bar keys you provide? I seen your kit with the torsion keys for the front and the springs for the back but I need to change all my shocks anyways. And would the suspension ride change in regards to being rough or would it stay the same? Thanks

    • Carlos,

      You should go ahead and use the shock extenders in the rear even though you use our shorter shocks. They will optimize the length and help keep the shocks vertical. On the front our shocks will not mount to the factory arms, the Chevy shocks have a very unique lower mounts. If you use our Calmax lower control arms then the shocks will work!

      Mark

  63. DJM Tech,
    Ive been reading all the posts, trying to see if someone had already asked my question but did not stumble upon it. I have a 2000 Tahoe Limited and I want to buy your lower control arms. My question is, will the upper control arms that fit on the 98 Silverado the same as my Tahoe? Id like to replace everything at once and since I cannot find any other tubular control arms for mine, it would be great if they would. Thanks for your time.

    • Steven,

      If your front suspension is a torsion bar system then I am sorry to say the 98 Silverado arms won’t work. But if you have a coil spring front end then any of the 98 Silverado parts would work. Some of the early 2000 Suburban/Tahoe models were built and branded as “Classics” and had the same front end parts as the 92-98 C1500. Hope this works for you!

      Mark

  64. hello djm i just installed your 4/6 kit on my 2000 silverado i have a couple of problems i did the install 2 weeks ago and really like the way it rides but i did notice my steering wheel shakes a bit this past weekend i had mew tires put on it and got an alignment the guy that did the alignment said he did his best but could not get it to specs well the steering wheel shakes more driving down the road then it did before the alignment and the other thing is that the back on the passenger side sits about 1 inch higher then the drivers side can i add a lowering shackle to make it look even would that work thank you for any help you can provide

    • Juan,

      Did the alignment guy tell you what he couldn’t align? There is no reason he should have a problem adjusting your alignment to the factory settings. Also it is a little troubling to have more “wheel shake” after he aligned it. Please see if you can find out why he could not align it and let me know!

      Mark

  65. Hello,
    I have a 2000 Chevrolet S10 Xtreme. I know these come lowered from the facorty about 2 inches. I was just wanting to lower it a little more without bagging and cutting it up. I put a 5/7 belltech kit on an s10 years ago. Have you heard of any problems or anything running your 4/4 kit with an xtreme? I just want to make sure everything should be ok since it is the different model.
    Thanks,
    Tyler

    • Tyler,

      You can run our parts on your Extreme but know that our 2″ coil spring won’t do much because that’s how the factory lowered it. I would recommend the 3″ Calmax control arms in the front (keeping your factory spring) and go ahead and use a 3″ or 4″ rear block! Click here to see the parts!! Good Luck!!!

      Mark

  66. I have a 2012 silverado regular cab 4.3 2wd. And I want to know if I do the 4/7 drop kit..With my stocks tire of 245/70/17 will rub and do I need cnotch.but also I would like to drop it 2 more inches..what tire size should I drop to and would still need a notch

    • Mike,

      You should be able to run the 4/7 kit no problem. We do not c-notch the new Silverados they have a box type frame, be careful with that. If you want to drop another 2″ you will be doing alot of custom work and probably need to notch but again I would be very careful about that. Good Luck!

      Mark

  67. Hello i got your 4/6 kit for my 2000 chevy silverado a friend of mine recommended your stuff i’m happy with the kit but have a little problem i had a local shop here in anaheim do the intall since i already had a 3/4 drop i used the real drop shocks from my old kit the truck bottoms out so i took back to shop and the told me it was the shocks and needed to get better ones but i noticed that on the passenger side the cut for the c notch was not centered so the axle hits the edge of the plate the shop said the only thing they can do is move the plate back about 1/2 inch drill some new holes and weld it so i wanted an opinion from you guys will this fix it or do you have any suggestions on how to fix the problem any suggestions will be helpful thank you

    • Juan,

      Reading your story causes me to worry about the entire installation. Your installers did not follow the instructions, a c-notch mistake is a pretty bad mistake. Since your in Orange County my recommendation is to call Mike at Pro Designs in Santa Ana. He can inspect your truck and repair it correctly. His phone number is 714-436-1158. Pro Design does great work and Mike is a good guy to work with, check them out here , good luck!

      Mark

  68. I bought a 3/4 drop kit djm the lower control arm the big washer on it is loose it came like that is it suppose to be like that these lowers should come already to install right.

    • Moses,

      Usually the washers are snug not real tight. The cross shaft needs to move so the control arm can pivot up and down. If there is play in the shaft however that is to loose ad you should tighten it up by releasing the set screws and tightening the end bolts then tighten the set screws to finish.

      Mark

  69. I have a 2009 Silverado hybrid. It has a mcgaughys spindle on it now and I was to change over to the calmax upper and lower CA. I have a set of 305/40r22 and I don’t want it to rub badly. Which one will be about the same drop in inches.

    • Ryan,

      If your running the spindle with the factory coil then all you need is a set of 2″ Calmax arms. You will want to go back to your factory spindle, and you don’t need to run upper arms unless your doing it styling reasons! Check out the choices you have right here!!

      Mark

  70. Good after noon, I have a 2014 Chevy Silverado 1500 LT extended cab 2 wheel and just recently purchased, through a tire and suspension garage, a 3/5 lowering kit from your company. They did the install for me and after I picked it up I noticed it was hitting on something, under the bed, after going over a bumped at street speeds so I called the shop back and told them what was happening and they told me I was going to need to reroute my exhaust because it was hitting the exhaust behind my tail pipe. Have you had any experience with that through your R and D or has anyone posted the same problem? Should it be doing that? Any help/guidance would be greatly appreciated.

    • Robert,

      It is not real unusual to have the exhaust system make contact with a lowering kit. Does not happen all the time and happens more with often aftermarket exhausts. It can be normally solved with some small adjustments made on the exhaust.

      Mark

  71. I was looking at site looking for a drop kit for an 82 f 150 and i notice that yearyear isnt listed do u make them for it i has ball joints in the front thanks andrew

    • Andrew,

      At this time we have not built parts for your 82. If your 82 has the ball joints mounted in the beams and you have a long and short beam the 83 parts may work! Look at these parts and see what you think!!

      Mark

  72. I want to lower my 98 gmc short wide bed. I am considering either the 2/4 or 3/4 drop.My question is I already have shackles in the rear which leveled out the truck, do I need to replace these shackles. I am going with springs or spindles in front.

    • Steve,

      If you have 2″ drop shackles then you don’t need to replace them, just add the leaf spring eye hangers which mount on the front of the leaf spring. For your front drop you can get 2″ or 3″ with springs, 2″ with spindles, or 2″ or 3″ with control arms. Springs are the lowest cost but you loose suspension travel which degrades the ride quality and you induce negative camber. Spindles costs a little more and work with the factory springs for a 2″ drop with out any alignment issues but you probably will need to trim a little material from your factory control arms to keep from hitting your wheels when you turn sharp. Control Arms also cost a little more and work with the factory spring with out any alignment issues, plus you can get a 2″ or a 3″ arms and have no wheel clearance problems. Click here to see your options. You will need to call DJM to buy the lowered eye hangers by themselves without shackles part number EH1021-2. Good luck and let me now what you decide!

      Mark

  73. Hello,

    Looking to purchase the Complete DJM Lowering Kit DJM2057-5/7 for my 1996 Chevy 3500 with an ext cab.

    Question. Is this all I will need,(parts wise)(I know you need shocks as well if you want to do correctly) anything else. What else can I expect to have to do. I hear about notching the frame.

    FYI. I have removed and installed full suspensions (soup to nuts) on several muscle cars but never a truck (beast) of this size. So I am familiar with the process of pulling apart the suspension (springs, coils, spindles, control arms etc.)

    Just want to make sure I am ready for this project before I get into the heat of the battle.

    Any tips or tricks would be appreciated greatly.

    Thanks in advance

    • Matthew,

      If you buy that kit you will have everything you need including c-notchs! You will have to notch the frame, it is not that hard, not fun but not hard! If you want to see a video that is close to what your up against check out the videos of the GarageX guys installing a 4/6 kit on a F150. While some of the parts are different you will do the same labor. Check out the GarageX guys here!

      Mark

  74. I just installed your flip kit on my 1970 Chevy C10. It was easy to install, even for the chest tool kit that I have. My question is, the front end (New Coil springs and shock) still sits about 2 inches higher than the rear (Flip kit, new shocks) I don’t really want to pull out my new springs and cut them. Any other suggestions to get them lower without a 2nd mortgage on my house?
    Thank again

    David S

    • David,

      I am assuming your front springs are 2″, usually a flip kit is used with a 3″ or 5″ front drop. The only way I know that you can get the front down more is to install 3″ lower control arms for a 3″ drop using the factory coils and or adding the 2″ coils for a total of 5″ of drop. Generally this will give you a level to forward rake for a stance depending on your front choice. By the way where do you live where you can get a 2nd on a house;))

      Mark

      • Thanks, Mark.

        Very helpful information and the video was a good guide. Looks very straight forward as far as suspension work goes.

        Thanks Again.

        • Matthew,

          Your welcome, we just want you to have all the information to make the best decision! Send us pictures when your done!!

          Mark

  75. I have a 98 ranger could i correct the butterflying on my front tires by bolting the lower control arm further in some more

    • Omar,

      Sorry to get back to you late. I don’t know if the lower arms will help you or not! How have you lowered your Ranger to cause the “butterflying”? That will help us figure a way to help you!!

      Mark

  76. goodnight my friend my question is I have a 96 chevy c1500 stepside with 15 wheels and kit which I recommend to lower front and back with the original tires .. thank you very much and hope you can help me to choose the best drop kit for my truck

      • Pato,

        If you have a 96 C1500 with factory 15 inch wheels you can use any of the following kits. You decide how much you want to lower and go. If you choose a spindle drop on the front you will need to trim a little metal from the factory control arms to clear your 15 inch wheels but this is very common. Good Luck!

        Mark

  77. Hey,

    Im a bit lost over here, i got a 2003 step side gmc and I’m looking for a lower kit that is stable enough to handle 800 whp. and I’m looking for something kinda lowered from the front than the rear.

    • Dave,

      All of our kits are designed with factory or near factory horse power. We build them to be as strong or stronger than stock but I have no way of knowing how having 800 hp at the drive wheels would impact our kits. I think no matter what you do (including stock suspension) you will have to reinforce something somewhere. I just don’t have any specific advise on what you should purchase that would be based on practical experience. I am curious about what your doing, keep us updated if you can! Sorry and good luck!

      Mark

  78. I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado that I lowered about 9 months ago. I did not do any research on the lowering kits. I live here in southern California and bought a 3 / 4 lowering kit from Crown supsension in Brea Ca. Since they are local and close to me, they gave me a good a deal but I’m not happy with the kit because the coils in the front make my truck rattle and bounce. I am not happy with the coils at all. I was looking at your 4 / 6 lowering kit and also did some research and read some good and bad things about your kit. I have read some forms that say your lower control arms have alignment problems, and I also read that they are good with factory specs. I am a little confused but I want to try your lowering kit, just wanted to know because I don’t want to make the same mistake I made 9 months ago, how good are your products? I also have a friend that has your 4 / 6 lowering kit on the same type of truck, and his sits a little high in the back. I was wondering if it’s okay if a use a 1″ drop shacle to drop it 7 in the rear, and would I have any problems; or would the back sit lower than the front. I am also running my factor stock 16″ wheels. I would appreaciate your help and I look forward to using your products. Any information you can provide will be helpful.

    Thank you.

    • Juan,

      As a general thing lowering with a coil spring will make your ride worse primarily because of loss of suspension travel. Coils will also impact your alignment in negative ways, and are the least desirable but the most economical way to lower. Control arms or spindles are a much better way to lower, also more expensive. Our Calmax arms lower your truck and are fully alignable, in fact all of our kits align to factory specs! Sometimes people say they don’t align but we don’t know why they say that, we have an alignment rack in our R&D area and design our kits around being able to align to factory specs for all trucks. I drove the white 99 silverado with the 4/6 kit for years with out trouble. In fact that is the truck that was used to design the kits for 99-06 sliverado’s!

      If you end up with the rear a little too high you can add a shackle to get it down another inch, you do lose more suspension travel.
      Check out the article I linked to learn more about the 4/6 kit for your Silverado, and good luck!

      Mark

  79. I have a question I have a 2011 silverado reg cab I want to put some 22 inch oem wheel but I want my truck to look nice not to drop wat should input on it ? Thanks a lot

    • Armando,

      If the 22″OEM wheel has the OEM tires then you should be ok with any kit for your 2011 Silverado! You only get into trouble when your wheel and tire combo is bigger than the factory wheel and tire combo. Then you have to worry about tire clearance if you try to lower too much!

      Mark

  80. hi I had a quick question about the 3/5 drop you guys have for the 99-06 4wd sierra, I already have lowering shackles but with the flip kit and a c notch will it be an 8 inch drop if I left the 2 inch drop shackles on? if I install this kit I want my truck to be level as much as possible.

    • Jose,

      On your 4WD you do flip the rear axle and use a short 1″ lifting shackle to net out a 5″ drop. If you install the entire 3/5 kit you should be pretty level, that’s why we use the 1″ lifting shackle in the kit for the rear!

      Mark

  81. I installed 3″ lowering control arms on my 2004 Silverado I wanted to know which sway bar links do I need for them? also what is the part numbers for both upper and lower ball joints..thanks

        • Eddie,

          You can I suppose actually install both spindles and control arms on the same truck, neither parts are designed to work together to lower however. You will have some kind of alignment or clearance issues somewhere. You can add a 2″ coil spring to both a control arm or spindle to lower more to get more drop on your Chevy, just click here to see the springs. Good Luck!

          Mark

  82. i recently your modified control arms. i spent 6 hours trying to make it fit and nothing. after that i installed my oem ones took 5 minutes or less to put back on why is that?

      • 05 trailblazer. I used belltech lowering struts and springs and shocks on back. count get the bolts on the control arms because the windshield washer reservoir was in the way

        • Brent,

          For all things Trailblazer I would like for you to check out TBSS. Tony runs this site and knows more about Trailblazer mods than anybody I know! Click here to see

          Mark

  83. Hey i was thinking about ordering your 3/4 drop kit for my 67 f100. My only question is this, is the kit an actual 3 inch and 4 inch drop? Or is it one of those “up to” type of drop kits?

    • Chandler,

      The front i-beams move the king pin mount up 3″ so you should get a 3″ drop using all other factory parts. On the rear, the hanger shackle kit moves the leaf spring mounts up on the frame so again it is a mechanical drop. Generally changing springs is where you see inconsistent results, depending on the condition of the coils you are replacing you make not get exactly 2″ out of a 2″ drop coil!.

      Mark

  84. I have a 1970 f100 , and would like to lower it useing your complete lowering kit, is there a spring i can put in to lower it an 1 or 2 more?

    • Henry,

      You need to use a factory or factory replacement coil. If you try to lower more with a coil spring you will cause negative camber ( the top of the tire leaning in ) that you can’t adjust out! The king pin i-beam trucks don’t have any way to adjust camber or caster, so you need to stick to factory length coils, sorry.

      Mark

  85. Al here again… I have a question on my DJM kit I purchase for my 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 on the leaf springs it is dropped around 5″ . It sometimes bottoms out in the rear just a little on the rubber stops.Will leaf spring helpers work? Or will I have to C- Notch it? Thanks

    • Craig,

      Did you install the flat urethane bump stops? If you didn’t you can get a little more travel when you do install it. Also you can pick up the rear a little by adjusting the rear shackles! Hope this will help you.

      Mark

  86. Hi i have a 1997 ford ranger and wanted to lower it 5 to 6 in the front and 7 to 8 in the back. i was wondering if you could help me make a list for what i would need to do that?
    thanks,
    Cooper

    • Cooper,

      To get a drop like that you will need some custom fabrication on your end. On the front we make 3″ beams that work with the factory coils. If you try shorter coils you will induce more negative camber than you can adjust out (especially at 6″). On the rear you can get 4″ by “flipping” the rear axle, but to get more you will have to modify how the leaf spring mounts to the frame, and or change your leaf springs, and after that probably notch the frame and cut a hole in your bed to allow clearance for the axle and differential. The most we can offer in a “off the shelf kit” is a 3″ front and 4″rear. Click here to see that. Good luck, that’s a very ambitious project!!

      Mark

      • Hi its me again! Was talking to my mechanic an he was telling me that there could be some other problem when I lower my truck. Such as having to shorten the drive shaft. And also there could be pressure on joints after lowering it! Was wondering what you may know about the extra problems that may come later. Im gunna get your 3\4 drop kit with the I beams and the flip kit for a 97 ranger to give u an idea of how low it would become.

        • Cooper,

          Your mechanic’s instincts are right, but he is not familiar with our lowering kits. On the rear, the axle brackets actually locate the rear axle back away from the tail shaft on the transmission about 3/4″. This eliminates the need to shorten the drive shaft, so no worries there. As far as the ball joints are concerned, they are in the same relative position as stock. So there is no more “pressure” on them than if you left your truck completely stock. Also you align the front end to factory specs keeping everything “stock” except the ride height. If you were to try to lower your Ranger more with shorter coils for example then you start effecting geometry and alignment in ways you cant adjust out. If you install the 3/4 kit as a kit without trying to lower more than that, everything will line up and work just like it was a stock height. Good questions, and you are smart to ask these type questions before you spend your hard earned money and go through the effort to install the parts. Good Luck!!

          Mark

  87. Hi guys im working on a 1983 ford F350 and an 86 F350 i am having a hell of a time finding a way to lower the front only a couple inches(2 or 3), would your dream beams be an option for either of these rigs?
    thanks yall!

    • Jacob,

      Right now there are no parts that I am aware of for your 8 lug 83 or 86. But, we are working on some 8 lug king pin beams, I don’t have the specific years they will fit at my fingertips, so stay tuned. They should be available very soon!!

      Mark

  88. Al here again I installed the 2″lower control arm with a 1 1/2 Eabach springs my 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 Reg Cab the total drop for the front is around 3 1/2.What size shocks should I use?

    • Al,

      We don’t have any practical experience combining drop springs with lowered control arms on your Dodge and I am not sure what the best choice is regarding shocks. Our shock number 1315 (13.5″ fully extended) I think would work, your only other choice is a much smaller 11.5″ fully extended shock # 1115. I would not go with anything longer than the 1315, I am afraid it would limit your suspension travel!

      Mark

  89. I have a 2000 chevy silverado 1500 with a 5.3 was looking into doing a moderate drop not too low just decent i want the front to sit a little lower than the back wondering if i can get help to a link of a complete kit that would best fit my description thanks alot!

    • Cesar,

      You have a bunch of choices! All these kits ride great and you can drive “normal” click here to see! Good luck and let me know if you have any more questions.

      Mark

  90. I have a 84 chevy silverado & I put lowering springs & drop spindles on it. Now the lower control arm hits the wheel. I have 17” wheels on it. How do I fix this problem. Thanks

    • Josh,

      Your situation sounds unusual and I am wondering if you have the wrong offset wheels. With 17″ wheels you shouldn’t have a wheel contact problem. Check your offset and compare to factory. Let me know!

      Mark

  91. Question. I have a 2014 Silverado with a 2/4 drop. What is the biggest wheel I can put on my truck with no rubbing?

    Thanks,
    Rich

    • Rich,

      You should be able to use any wheel designed to work on your truck. That being said, here is a rule that works all the time, if you don’t deviate from the original factory wheel and tire diameter when you choose new ones then your good. So for example if your factory wheel and tire diameter is 30″ then if you go to a bigger wheel and a low profile tire and it isn’t any bigger than 30″ then you good to go! Good Luck!!

      Mark

  92. i have a 1984 chevy c10 and i am wanting to lower the front and my question is can i use the 2” spindle and the 3” lower control arms together? and if i was to use them together would the control arms scrap on the ground when i was to go over a speed bump?

    • Miguel,

      It is possible to install both drop spindles and lowered control arms. Please be aware that they are not designed to work together, you would have a scrub line issue (hitting speed bumps) and probably a radical tie rod angle, possible wheel clearance issues, etc. Because they were never intended to work together they were never tested together so I can’t be sure of all the problems that might occur. The better way is to choose either the spindle or control arms and if you want to lower more add a drop coil spring to get the stance your looking for! Good Luck.

      Mark

    • Scott,

      If you want to lower the front 3″ you can do it with a set of Calmax Control Arms here just click on the CA2397L-3 part number. For the rear click on the SB2397-4LK part number and you will have a 3/4 kit to install on your Dakota! Send us some pictures!

      Mark

      • thanks mark..3 more questions lol #1..do the ball joints come with zits and when it comes time can I just replace the ball joints with factory stuff..and #2.. ive already got 2 inch blocks on the back is there a like shackles or something I can add to the 2 inch blocks to get my desired 4 inchs..and #3 ik the truck sits factory taller in the back and when I installed the 2 inch blocks it looked pretty much leveled which I like but I want it lower ..would the 3/4 drop keep it leveled? really I just wanna keep the nose lower than the back, level would be ideal but as long as it doesn’t look like my truck has a full load all the time

        • Scott,

          Yes the ball joints have zerk fittings, and while they are not the factory replacement parts, they are parts you can get any any NAPA or hard parts store! And no there is not a shackle you can use to add to your 2″ blocks, you can however change out the 2″ blocks for 3″ or 4″ blocks to get the stance your looking for! Again I would recommend steel blocks because you have enough torque to possible fracture aluminum blocks.

          Mark

  93. I have a 99 Silverado 4.3 v6 regular cab. Broke a leaf spring so figured might as well lower it now instead of buying new stock leafs. So I already have 3″ drop new leaf springs for the rear. I am looking at the 2″ lower control arms for the front and new shocks for the rear from you guys. Question is will 2″ lower controls be sufficient to match the rear or would 3″ be better? Also have seen on other comments here that new shocks aren’t needed for the front but the ones suggested are they shorter shocks like the rears I’m buying? If so then would I be better off buying just regular sized shocks for the front or shorter ones? Also will I be able to get by with the stock springs in the front? And will I need anything else to do the front besides the lower controls? If I read correctly the ball joints are already in the lowers? Thanks for the help looking forward to finally lowering this truck.

    • Brink,

      You need to decide which drop that would give you the look you want. Either the 2 or 3″ arms will work great and you can run stock length shocks with the arms. Probably the 3″ arms would give you a level or maybe a slight forward rake (unless you get more than 3″ in the rear) and would be my pick! How did your leaf spring break? Just curious, kinda rare. Let me know what you do and how it works!!

      Mark

      • Well ended up going with the 2″ lowers and your shocks all the way around. Not quite sure why my leaf broke, I was dumbfounded when my uncles shop said it was my leaf spring. I was pulling out of a parking lot, it was raining saw a coworker so got on it to drift out of the lot an heard a snap. Thought I chunked my rear end cause I’ve done that before but nope.Hoping that I end up with an even look front an back if not I’ll adjust the rear cause the front sits fairly low as it sits now. I can send some before and after pics if you want, granted its a little rusty on the box but I live in Minnesota so that’s a given.

        • Brink,

          Yea, send some pictures! I have had coil springs break on me but never a leaf. Good luck with your project!!

          Mark

  94. Hi I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 Reg Cab I installed a DJM FK 2392-4 with 2200/2400 shocks for the rear witch looks really good and I have 1.5 Eibach coil springs for the front.I want to lower the front maybe use the Calmax Control Arms 2″. It has a distance around 4″ from the fender and tire.Tire size are 275/45R20. You think I should go with the 2″or 3″ control arms? Thanks

    • Al,

      I think I would use the 2″ arms because you already have the drop springs installed. The arms were designed around the factory coil and will align with them and I think you will still be able to align with the drop springs but I cannot say for sure! Let me know how it goes and send a picture. By the way we don’t have any of those types of stickers, sorry about that. I’ll lodge a complaint with the marketing guys!

      Mark

  95. hi I have a 2007 4wd sierra(classic). I already installed the drop shackles in the rear but I still have a lot of rake. is it possible to put a flip kit with out having to c-notch the frame? and would I have vibration issues with my driveline?

    • Jose,

      We have a 3″ and a 4″ rear lowering kit for your 4WD Silverado, click here to see. You can use either kit without driveline issues, plus you don’t have to “C-Notch”!!

      Mark

      • I know that I said that my truck was a 2007 but the kits you showed me were for the new style. my truck is the old style 00-06 style.

        • Jose,

          Sorry about that, you did say classic I missed it. Click here to see what’s available for your truck. I would recommend the hanger/shackle kit for a 4″ total drop. Since you already have the shackles give DJM a call at 1-800-237-6748 and see if you can buy just the leaf spring hangers.

          Mark

  96. For my 1989 Toyota pickup project, me and my dad wanted to see if we could come by your shop and take a look at some of the projects that you have done is this possible?

    • Ken,

      You are welcome to come by the factory! We don’t have an installation department though. We do all the R&D work here and build all the parts here but we don’t have any projects going on to look at, sorry about that. The factory is interesting but not sexy like some of the builders shops!! Please send me some photos of your project if you can, would love to have images of your 89 Toyota!

      Mark

  97. I have a 2007 GMC Sierra Denali Classic body style, and I’m looking for a 2/4 or possibly lower drop. Do you make any kits for my truck? I had trouble finding any in the applications.

    -Thanks

    • Connor,

      A couple of questions, Is your Denali a suv or pick-up? And when you say classic is it the 99-06 platform or the 07-14 platform?

      Mark

        • Conner,

          You can use any of the 99-06 Silverado kits, that is if your Denali is 2WD! I didn’t think to ask you before. There are not a lot of 07 Denali classic pick ups so sorry for all the questions. Click here to see what is available for your truck.

          Mark

  98. I have a 1989 Toyota pickup that i am going to lower with a set of your DJM2855-3/4, and I was wondering if you make sway bars that fit the truck as well

    • Ken,

      Thanks for choosing DJM to lower your Toyota! We don not make swaybars for your truck but I found a rear bar made by Hellwig click here for more info!!
      Good luck and send me a picture!

      Mark

  99. Greetings,

    I had an 1500 Sierra 2010 and I lowered it with DJM 4” – 6” lower kit. I lost the car in an accident but I still have the kit as it wasn’t damaged.

    My question is can I install the same kit for the new 2014 sierra? Or there are differences in the chassis?

    • Alex,

      If you want to go lower than your 3/4 kit you will need to install a flip kit in the rear which needs a “c-section” kit that does cut the frame. They have frame support brackets in them to make the frame as strong or stronger than stock so if your worried about strength you can put your mind at ease! The typical flip kit will give you a 6″drop in the rear.

      Mark

      • I also have a 2000 F150 XL. I’m wanting to install the 4/6 drop. Does it matter that I have a V6 or not? I have 295/35/24″ tires and are wondering about clearance issues in the front. Thanks

        • Luke,
          The V-6 truck is a little lighter in the front so you may not get a full 4″ drop. The coils were designed with a V-8 truck. (Don’t tell anyone I said this but if the front is just a little too high you can trim no more than 1/4 coil from one end and probably get the stance your after!) I can’t give a definite yes or no regarding your wheels and tires. But I can say this – If your offset is the same as stock and the overall diameter of your wheel and tire is no bigger than the overall diameter of the factory wheel and tire you should have no clearance issues! Good luck, and send a picture!!

          Mark

  100. I have a 1988 R20 Suburban 3/4 Ton, 8 Lug, 2wd suburban. I am trying to achieve a 3″front/4″rear drop. I know that it has 52″ leaf springs in the rear. I am quite sure that the C20 73-91 control arms for the 8 lug 3/4 chevy truck will bolt up for the front without any questions. My question is will the hanger & shackle kit fit the rear end and work to achieve the lowering I want?

    • Mark,

      You are correct about the control arms, they will bolt up just like factory. The problem is the rear and while I don’t know for sure I doubt that the hanger shackle kit will “just bolt up” First try to determine if there is enough room to install a longer shackle on the rear of the leaf spring (make sure it clears the gas filler neck), then try to see if the hole pattern on the factory hanger looks like the hole pattern on the drop hangers. Click here to see the parts! If you think there is a good chance then we can compare some measurements!

      Mark

  101. I’m looking to drop a 2WD 2008 Ford F-250 I’m currently running Nitto 420S 305/50R20 tires. I’d really like to get a 3-5 drop out of it. What kit do y’all offer, if any, to help me do this? Also, do you think I’ll be able to get that much drop running this size tire?

    • Tyler,

      As long as your F250 is an 8-lug truck then you treat just like a F350 Superduty, the suspension (for the purposes of lowering) is the same. Regarding your wheel size, it will not influence amount of lowering, only maybe wheel clearance if you lower too much. The rule of thumb there is if you don’t deviate from the original factory overall tire + wheel diameter or the factory offset your good to go. In other-words if your have 30″ of overall diameter with factory wheels and tires and you upgrade form the factory 15″ wheel to a 18″ wheel and still have a 30″ diameter with the tire you choose you will have no problem when you lower! Click here for more info on the 3/5 kit!! Good Luck.

      Mark

    • Dan,

      26″ wheels are big, compared to the factory diameter how much bigger are your wheel and tire combo?

      Mark

    • Omar,

      We can’t get stuff in the magazines without pushing and prodding and advertising. But you can get your Ranger in the “Garage”, just send me pictures and your story and together we will tell the story on your 98 Ranger!! Send to tech@calmaxsuspension.com
      Can’t wait to hear from you!

      Mark

  102. I have a 2011 Chevrolet Avalanche 5.3L LT 2WD. I was wondering what would be the lowest kit I can get that can fit with 20/50/285 rims. All I can get was a McGaughys lowering kit 4/5. I want something lower than that but still maintain a good comfortable ride and daily use. What can I have other than an Airbag kit?

    • Khalid,

      The biggest drop we make is a 3/4 drop mostly because the of the rear. A 5″ spring requires so much rate that it rides hard, you also are running out of suspension travel. I know there are kits you can buy that give you more drop just be a little careful if your really are concerned about ride quality.

      Mark

  103. Greetings from Oz,
    I have a ’76 Chev C20, Single Axle RHD PickUp and want to fit a DJM Lowering kit to it. Obviously our road laws in Australia are very different from yours so the DJM 3-4 Drop Lowering kit Chevy GMC C20 73-91 w/Shocks (Calmax SuperShox number 1409 for the correct front and number 1800 for the correct rear shocks) will probably have to be fitted after it is registered but nonetheless I want to order one. Do you know of any issues with fitting this kit to a RHD Truck.
    Also, I know this one isn’t a tech question but, Do you know of a reliable shipping service to get it over to me.

    • Steve (from OZ),

      I can’t think of any reason the DJM kit would not work on your RHD C20. However, the man behind the green curtain reminds us that things are not always as they seem;) But really I think using the DJM 3/4 kit would work fine. The only “deal” we have for shipping is UPS who have given us a special discount on shipping to Australia! If you send me your complete shipping address I can get a quote on the freight. Send that info to tech@calmaxsuspension.com to keep it private! Also if you decide to do this would you send some pictures of your truck so we can get some coverage from “Down Under”!!

      Mark

  104. I have a 2002 chevy silverado extended cab stepside 4.8L. I was looking at the 2/4 drop,and I’m running 305/40/22 tire. Wondering if I will have any rubbing/clearance issues with front with that size wheel and tire?

    Also I was looking at the complete Kit DJM2955-2/4 kit. Is there any way directions for install can be emailed or I can find online to see what I’m getting into before purchase?

    Thanks!

    • J.S.

      You should be able to run your wheels and tires with a 2/4 kit without nagging rubbing issues. Click here to get to instructions for the parts, the front are CA2955L-2 and the rear is HS2955-4. These are the individual part numbers from the individual parts page in applications! Good Luck!!

      Mark

  105. I have looked all over the web and ur site and I don’t see a kit for. 1980 ford f100 with king pins. Why is that?
    I want to lower my truck but I don’t want to lose the king pin setup. I’m lookin for a mild drop. Not major. So when u look at it u can tell its lowered.
    How much would It cost to make them?

    • Eddie,

      In the 1980 model year, Ford produced 3 different front suspensions. King pin I-Beams that are equal lenght, king pin I-Beams that are different lengths and ball joint I-Beams which are unequal lenght! If your beams are the king pin beams that are the same lenght (drivers and passenger) your lucky and go ahead and buy the beams for the 65 – 79! If your beams are different lengths you are not so lucky, I don’t know at this time of anyone making them. Maybe if there is enough guy’s who need them they might get built, so stay tuned!

      Mark

  106. Hi Guys,

    I have a question regarding the 4/6 drop, I have a 2007 (Classic) GMC Sierra short bed standard cab with the upper and lower control arms and flip kit. I have installed everything and it looks great, but there is a height difference from driver side to passenger side. It looks like its about 3/4 of an inch difference (drivers side is lower with an empty tank) and I wasn’t too worried about it until the second attempt at the alignment. After the first attempt it was pulling pretty good to the right so I had them run it up on the rack to check it and it was out about .03* but still green. They were able to make an adjustment and keep within specs, but it still pulls to the right. I was told that the height different from side to side can cause this, but I wanted to check with the group here to be sure what they are saying is true. If so, do I try the heater hose trick on the coil spring and try to get that side back up or are there any other tips that you can provide to help get this back to level?

    thanks!

    Ryan

    • Ryan,

      What you are describing is the “Chevy Lean” and frankly all trucks suffer from a “lean”. You just don’t see it at stock ride height but a 3/4″ lean is pretty normal! Trucks and cars are all asymmetrical, meaning the drivers side (on chevy’s) is heavier mostly because of the gas tank than the passenger side. There are many reasons why trucks or cars don’t have perfect symmetrical weight distribution, batteries, ac compressors, coil springs all being right hand wound, etc. And like I said at the start we just don’t notice until we lower (this is a very good reason to do careful measuring BEFORE starting the lowering job).

      Now the fact your not level should not prevent you from a good alignment, however using the heater-hose trick is probably a very good thing to do before you get your final alignment. You can get pretty darn level most of the time! Good Luck!!

      Mark

  107. hey guys, I’m so happy I found this site, not only can you tell me what I need, but that I get to speak with an actual person haha..

    Here’s a little info:

    I have a 1979 Ford F-100 in great shape, body is mint (absolutely no bondo or filler)

    The bed in the box needs replacing but I can fab & weld myself.

    Now I need your advice, I lowered the rear end 1″ just using leafs to level the truck.

    What I want to do is lower the truck 3″ or 4″ front & back, I have a good budget, but saving here & there always helps, as we all know!

    Can you tell me exactly what I need, considering everything suspension wise, will be upgraded!

    You can email me or just reply here, if there’s a forum that I should be writing this on then just tell me, it’s my 1st time on this site, so sorry in advance!

    I will definitely post Pics if ya’ll want!

    Thanks for your help guys;

    Jake Stefinashen.

      • Jake,

        Glad you found us! All you need is the 3/4 kit for your 79 F-100, click here. You are correct about the tie rods, and they are included in the kit (see them in the picture)! All you do is remove and replace the i-beams in the front making sure to use the factory coils (or factory replacements if you need). There is a very good reason for this, you cannot adjust camber or caster on the front of your truck! The caster is set by the beam and the camber is set by the length of the coil spring, so if you get exited and install shorter coils you will have negative camber (tops of the tires pointing in), you don’t want that. The rear is replacing the leaf spring hangers and rear shackles moving the mounting points up on the frame to get the 4″ drop.

        If you can send me the story and we will put you in the GARAGE! Especially tell us what you do to fix the bed in the box, I’ll bet your not the only one with that problem!! Good luck and if you need anymore info let me know!!!

        Mark

  108. Im wondering if i only need the rear flip kit since i have already installed 2″ lowering shackels on my 02 ram 1500 but still have a 2.5″ diference between front and the rear. Im looking to level/lower and be able to clear 33in tires.
    Thanks
    Pat

    • Patrick,

      If you get the 4″ flip kit for your Ram you will have a-lot of options for the rear ride height! That kit comes with a set of shackles that have several sets of holes you can use to adjust the rear end. The flip kit lowers the rear around 6″ and the shackles lift it back up to what ever height you like (by adjusting length with hole choice). Here is a link to the flip kit so you can find out more! Good luck.

      Mark

  109. I have lowered trucks in the past (Isuzu, cranked on torsion bars) rode like a gold rush wagon. A 93 s-10 using drop spindles and blocks( rode pretty decent). As of today I am fixing to purchase a 88 silverado with ONLY 83000 miles 305sb( I personally know the guy selling it, actually called him to see if he would let it go…….$4000) it has the usual cracked to hell dash but that can be fixed, color matched fiberglass running boards and fender flares( coming off as soon as I get it home) also has 20’s not to hip on the big rims but if you can help me make them work I may keep them and get them powder coated. I’m thinking 3f/4r would this work without rubbing, really like the look of a 3/5, I want to keep the ride and be able to align but I also want the kick ass sport truck look, keep in mind I pull a 1500# boat every other weekend and can’t sacrifice towing capabilities. I have my mind made up to go with your products so I’m asking for help in the right direction.

    • Brennon,

      UPDATE! Its not Street Trucks magazine, it’s Truckin’ Magazine. What that means is I cannot scan and make available to you over the net (I will get in trouble with them, stupid but true). So send me a e-mail to tech@calmaxsuspension.com and I can send you a pdf version of the article (it’s probably the only way you could get it now) Also, based on what you described I think the 3/4 kit would work best for you, doing that much towing and the concern over ride quality!
      I am looking for an article about dropping a 88-98 Silverado on a budget in Street Trucks Magazine, I think you will find helpful! You should be ok with your 20’s with either the 3/4 or 3/5. So give me a little time to dig it up and we will talk more about which kit might work best for you!!

      Mark

  110. Hey, my name is daren. I am interested in your 3/4 lowering kit for my 2008 Tacoma x runner. The question I have is there any tire rubbing issues with stock rim and tires and if the rear differential is going to touch the bed under the truck. If u have a answer, I would be glad to here back. My email is darenoreilly@yahoo.com thank you.

    • Daren,

      The R&D work done on the Tacoma was done on a box stock truck, so the factory wheels and tires should be no problem. You also under “normal driving conditions” should not worry about the rear end hitting the bed, the bump stops will stop the suspension before contact is made! Of course if you are playing “Dukes of Hazard” with it you might experience other issues!!

      Mark

  111. It seems to be lower only with the lower control arm, the spindle seems original the spring is original too,the only aftermarket is the shock, a toxic 1415. The back has a flip kit.

    • Jose,

      You can replace the 4″ lower arms with 2″ arms click here and try 2 /6 stance. It is unusual but it might be what you want. If the front is where you want it to be and the rear is to low you will have to remove the flip kit and instal a 4″ hanger/shackle kit. Another solution to your problem to consider is the 3″ lower control arms. If the front is a little to low and you like where the rear is the 3″ CALMAX Arm might be the answer!

      Mark

  112. Hey there I have a question I have a silverado 2001 with a 6″ drop in the back 4″ in the front now I bought this truck like it is but I don’t like it so low in the front I want to know if is possible to raise the truck 2″ I mean can I change the lower control arm for the 2″ lower arm I would have 2″ front 6″ back is it ok, is it going to affect my driving, I need some advise thanks.

  113. I have a 2010 GMC terrain SLE 2wd. I including a wave of people havr no luck in findimg any suspension lowering products for our model. I was thinking maybe GMC canyon would be similar. It has a macpherson front and multi something in the back. Is my choice really only air kit (which I dont want) or cutting springs ) which is bad)

    Any help or even actual products would be awesome.

    Edgar

  114. I have a 07 Avalanche w/o autoride. I installed 2″ drop spindles and 3″ drop springs. Factory shocks in front and lowered shocks in rear.

    There a height difference off 1/4″ in rear from passenger and drivers side.
    Rear springs were installed correctly.

    What can cause this?
    Do I need the rear shock extenders / shorter sway bars?? Honestly

    • Troy,

      Believe it or not, 1/4″ of height difference from side to side is very good. Did you measure your ride height before you installed the kit? Often trucks are up to 3/4″ different from side to side from the factory and you really don’t notice at stock ride height. Lower it and the lean is much more obvious! The reason for this is the weight distribution of the truck is not symmetrical. Example, the gas tank is only on one side of the truck, and of course when it’s full of gas it weigh’s more than when it’s empty, etc. If you only installed coil springs in the rear I would suggest installing the DJM RK2000 hardware kit which will give you more suspension travel for your trailing arms and position your rear sway-bar so it will not hit anything when the suspension moves up and down!

      Mark

  115. I have a 2001 dodge dakota. and the leaf springs have rusted on both sides and they are going thru my bed. one side is barley going threw but the other side is half way up the tail gate. could you tell me what will happen if i continue to drive this vechile. an the wheels sqeek when i turn them or even move the truck. Also what parts would i need to buy and do you know where i could find them for a good price??

    thanks, Milli

  116. Hi, I recently replaced my leveling keys with lowering keys on my GMC sierra with torsion bars. I already aligned it and I was looking to install my 2″ lowering shackles in the rear to level it out. I was wondering if I lowered the rear would I have to get another alignment or does it not effect the front end.

    • Jose,

      Adding the rear lowering shackles won’t effect the alignment in the front, no worries. Good luck!!

      Mark

        • Jose,

          Low speed vibrations sometimes occur on trucks with a 2-piece drive-shaft and that have been lowered more than 4 inches in the rear. The culprit is the carrier bearing that mates the long and short drive shafts together. In your case, a 2″ rear drop with shackles, the low speed vibration should not happen!

          Mark

  117. I have a 2001 GMC Sierrs Ex Quad cab 2wd with 5.3 I had the calmax 5-7 drop put on when I had the c notch cut out we changed out the front lower A-arms from the 5in to the 4in drop cuz it was a bit to low for everyday driving then added the carrier bearing and love the ride hight and able to get it allighned but if you look from the back the truck leans to the left but it tracks straight on the highway its been lik this since day one any sugestions?

    Thanx…

    • Jim,

      It leans to the left probably because of the gas tank. Almost all Silverado’s and Sierra’s are afflicted by the “Chevy Lean”. Really all trucks (and cars) lean to one side or the other (not just Chevy’s) and the best way to correct the lean is to shim up the low side using a short piece of heater hose as a shim on one end of the coil spring on the low side in the front. Just take a foot or so of heater hose, slice it on one side and slip it over one end if the coil spring tape it in place and put it back in the truck. The thickness of the wall of the hose will get you about 1/2″ to 3/4″ of ride height gain at the wheel (it’s a good idea to get the alignment checked the camber will change a little on that side). The lean is caused because trucks and cars are not symmetrical (perfectly balanced left to right) and you really don’t notice it until you lower one, then it sticks out like a sore thumb! Hope this helps, let me know!!

      Mark

  118. Hi,
    I have a 2000 chevy s-10 single cab short bed.what 3/4 drop or 3/5 kit would you recommend for it and shocks? for mean time iam ridding with stock wheels but am going with 18′ in front and 20′ on back.Thank you … Leo

    • Leo,

      There are not any 3/5 kits for your 02 S-10. You would be best served by a 3/4 or a 4/4 kit using either spindles, springs, or control arms to drop the front and lowering blocks for the rear. Check out all the kits by clicking here! It really doesn’t matter which tire and wheel combo you are or will be running to regarding what kit to choose except to make sure the wheels are made for your S-10! Good luck, and if you need more help let me know!!

      Mark

      • Thank you
        Mark
        I’m thinking ill go with the 3/4 kit don’t wanted to low in front will like to go lower but I don’t want to bag it yet.I’ll be stoping at your shop soon thank you

        Leo

  119. I have a 2007 gmc Sierra classic 4wd and I was wondering if I put 2″shackles in the rear, would my truck still have a rake or will I need to remove the 2″ block that is under the leaf springs.

    • Jose,

      If you have a 2″ block under the leaf spring on top of the axle and you remove it you would drop the rear 2″ and do the same thing as installing a lowering shackle. Make sure there is enough threads on the u-bolts to tighten adequately and removing the blocks don’t cause any other problems! A 2″ drop will go a long ways to taming the rake.

      Mark

      • So what you’re saying is if I remove my 2″blocks and install my 2″ drop shackles the rear will be too low or will it be level?

        • Jose,

          If it is to low or not low enough is your call. If you already have the shackles I would suggest installing them first because they are easier to deal with and then decide if you get the look your after, if not maybe remove the blocks. But I bet you can get the level stance with the shackles alone!

          Mark

  120. I am thinking of lowering my 05 trailblazer ls and was concerned about the rear axle alignment. Do I need to look into an adjustable pan hard bar. In my experience of lifting or lowering a 4 link setup the pan hard bar or aka tracbar needs to be adjustable to properly align back to center. Also I am really only looking for a stance similar to the trailblazer as any advice before I start changing things around is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks Brad

    • Brad,

      The Trailblazer lowering kits and installations we are familiar with did not require pan-hard bar mods. But if you want to know everything there is to know about Trailblazers click here to go to TBSSowners.com. These guys are the go to guys for the entire universe when it comes to all things Trailblazers!!

      Mark

  121. I have a 78 Chevy C10, I bought 3’inch spindle but I have a problem that the spindle where it holds the brake caliper hits the inside of the rim so the rim wont spin at all. I have the stock original 15×8 rims. Could i grind off a little from the that part of the spindle where the caliper grips on too and hope that the rim will spin? Or was it because i bought the wrong spindle 1.25 rather than the 1″?? I hope i explained myself, any advice would help. Thanks..

    • Ivan,

      Your situation happens once in a while, and your right you just need to grind a little relief on the spindle to get proper wheel clearance and away you go!

      Mark

  122. I own a 1989 S-10 Blazer 4WD I am wanting to lower the front end by 2-3″ and want to know how many lowering kits are on the market to pick from ? Air systems would be fine also. Thanks

    • Pete,

      Sorry to say I am not aware of any kits that will work on your blazer. You will have do some exploration and probably some custom work to lower your 4WD. You may be able to find some torsion bar keys for the front and maybe you could turn down the torsion bars a little to get the front down. The rear is the same as any S-10 Blazer/Jimmy so you can get a little creative with the front and have a very unique lowered ride!

      Mark

    • Miguel,
      We do not build a bolt on c-notch for the C-10’s. The frame has plenty of relief over the axle for most purposes. For radical drops there are places that build weld in notch kits but be careful with selection and installation!

      Mark

  123. Hello,
    I have a 97 dodge ram and I’m about to order the 4/6 drop. My question is how is the ride gonna be this drop? And if I get the shocks djm recommend on their website be any good or should I get different ones?
    Thanks

    • Manny,

      Your ride in normal driving situations will be the same. You do not have as much suspension travel as stock, so when you drive be aware of that. It just means if your carrying a load or towing or anything that reduces suspension travel you will be on your bump stops sooner and more often. One thing that can definitely help your ride is to have the correct length shocks, which by the way the DJM Calmax shocks are made specifically for their lowering kits! So the best choice would be the DJM shocks. Send us a picture of your Ram when your done!

      Mark

      • Thanks Mark for the reply back, ill keep that in mine. Ill post a picture of the truck as soon I’m done with it.

        • Hey Mark
          Here are some pics of the ram.
          [URL=http://s70.photobucket.com/user/gigi2388/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i109/gigi2388/Mobile%20Uploads/image-1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

          [URL=http://s70.photobucket.com/user/gigi2388/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image.jpg.html][IMG]http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i109/gigi2388/Mobile%20Uploads/image.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

  124. Hi Mark, sorry to bother you again. In regards to the msg from March 29th 2013, 09:44. Did you have a chance to find out what the dimensions are of DB3015-3 or DB3005-3?
    Thanks, Tom.

    • Matt,

      Sorry to report that our parts only work on the 2WD models. Your front end is a torsion bar design. The rear is the same however, using blocks, if you can find some front end parts.

      Mark

  125. I bought a 2002 Chevy S10 Blazer 2WD with the V6 in it I want to do a 2″ front and 3″ rear drop. I am told that I have to buy angle blocks for the back of it is that true? I have seen several kits and they say nothing of the sort about that I need some info so when I does this in a couple weeks that I have everything to do it on the weekend.

    • Rick,

      We have found no need for changing the angle on 3″ blocks, 4″ is another matter. Also be aware that the S-10 spindles will not work on your 02 Blazer, your best bet is 2″ coil springs.
      Here is a link to what we list for your 2002 Blazer! Good luck!!

      Mark

  126. I have a 2007 (Classic) Sierra 1500 standard cab short box with 255/45-20s and was planning on installing the 99-06 DJM 4/6 drop on this. Before I get stared I want to know if I am missing anything. I have the DJM 4″ lower control arms, DJM flip kit for the rear, factory springs and aftermarket shocks to go around. Knowing my setup, are there any additional items that will be needed before get started? There has been a lot of talk around needing the upper control arms to get the alignment correct and stress off ball joints. One final thing, looking at the control arms this morning, I noticed that one of the ball joint boots has a tear in it and will need to be replaced. Where would I locate one of these?

    • Louis,

      You can get buy without the upper control arms on some trucks but they need to be nearly perfect from the factory. Adding the upper arms will improve the upper ball joint angle on all trucks and improve the alignment adjust-ability on most trucks. Regarding your ball joint boots, they are molded into the casing on your lower ball joints so there is not a replacement boot. You can try to “patch it” someway, it would help, but just keep an eye on it and pump fresh grease in frequently and that will help alot! Good Luck!!

      Mark

  127. I have a pair of the 3″ lower control arms for my 03 ext cab silverado, it suggests buying the 1415 supershox for the front and the 1900+2000 supershox as well for the back, when used with the shackle/hanger combination. Can I use my factory shocks for this install? If not do I need one 1900 and one 2000 series supershox for the rear? thanks.

    • Chase,

      The shock suggestions are made to pair the correct length shock with that particular lowering kit. On your application you can use factory length shocks on the front because the Calmax arms do not change the factory suspension travel, on the rear however we suggest the 1900/2000 shocks because you have changed the amount of travel and your factory length shocks can actually limit your travel. You can use the factory shocks with the 4″ hanger/shackle kit but they will bottom out frequently and will be operating at the end of their stroke, which is not optimal. In other words your ride will be better with shorter shocks in the rear! So, the best ride quality occurs with the right shock length. Hope this helps you decide!

      Mark

  128. Mark,
    thx for getting back to me. There is no question that your DB3004-3 will fit on my E-250. The only two beams which come very close, just by looking at your pics, are DB3015-3 or DB3005-3. I still don’t know the dimensions of these two I-Beams (DB3015-3/DB3005-3 the length of right and left I-Beam, distance between upper and lower ball joint applications, diameter of the holes and so on. If the photographer for HOTROD Magazine bought a set of DB3004-3, then don’t bother contacting him, since they look quite different from the I-Beams on my Van. But if it was a typo on your side of the msg (from March 20), and the photographer bought a set of DB3005-3 instead of DB3004-3, then it might be a good idea to contact him. But we still don’t know whether the photographer wanted the I-Beams for an Econoline or a Pick-Up Truck, do we?
    Thank you.

    • Tom,
      Sorry I missed the very important “250” part of your E-250! You have a 1 ton platform and the 3004 parts are for a 1/2 ton platform. Historically with the ball joint beams, they are different between the “F” and “E” series. I will get the dimensions of the Superduty beams for you and hope they will fit. Stay tuned!

      Sorry,
      Mark

  129. Hello im interested in lowering my 2005 dodge ram rumble bee its a reg cab short bed but its 4wd i have looked on your site and found the 3″/5″ kit p/n #djm2393-3/5 im wondering can i install this in my own garage with my air tools and floor jack or is it a shop job & will this work with my truck being that its 4×4 im not looking to really use it as a off road truck so height doesnt matter i want it to look like a street truck slammed as low as possible without notching the frame or having fast bags installed aslo what else will i have to change on the truck for this kit to work THANKYOU FOR THE GREAT PRODUCTS ~ Tim from Detroit

    • Tim,

      First very sorry about that late response, got very behind! Now, I am also sorry to tell you our Dodge Ram parts will only work on 2WD. Our parts are all designed to install as easily as possible and can be installed at home if you have some patience, good tools, and some wrenching experience. Of course you can call us if you get stuck on something and we will try are best to help!

      Mark

  130. I have a 2006 trailblazer ss and paid a shop out here to lower it and thing doesn’t align and rides horrible. The rear has the oem airbags and is there a conversion I can do to change them out??

    • James,

      Let me give you a link to all things Trailblazer SS all the time! These guys are with out a doubt the Trailblazer go to guys!! Just click here TBSSOWNERS.com

      Mark

  131. I have 3″DJM lowering coils on the front of my 1965 GMC the rear has leaf springs, leaves were taken out to lower it 5″ The ride is good but I think I need sway bars. I couldn’t seem to find any to fit it on the JDM site. Thanx…

    • Lavern,

      I am sorry to report to you that we have not made a set of anti-swaybars for your 65 GMC. I think it’s great idea but haven’t got much support to do the r&d. Try Hellwig, or Hotchkiss, they make fine stuff and might have bars for your 65!

      Mark

    • Derrick,

      There is no “easy” way to get more drop. We did not build a “flip kit” because there is no way to get the front down enough to match the rear, and the hanger shackle kit only gets you 4″. So, what you can do is modify the leaf spring, maybe. You can remove a leaf from the leaf spring pack (usually lowers and usually rides bad) or if you live close to a large manufacturing area you might luck-out and find a leaf spring manufacturer who can “heat set” or change the height that the spring holds a particular load in a controlled manufacturing environment. Resist the temptation to use heat directly on your spring, leave that option to a spring shop. I am sorry i could not help more you just don’t have many options.

      Mark

      • Hi there,
        I’ve got a 2006 Ford Econoline E250 and I’m looking for a lowering kit especially for the front axle Twin I-Beams. I see that DJM offers I-Beams for Ford Pick-Up Trucks but not so much for Ford Vans. Will the Ford P-Up I-Beams fit in my Econoline? If not, do you have any other ideas how to lower the front of my Econoline. I don’t really wanna cut something out of the frame to lower it.
        Thank you.

        • Tom,

          We know the ball joint I-beams (83-96) we build for the F series will not work on the E series. I do not know for sure if the king pin beams are the same or different. We did sell a set of DB3004-3 (king pin drop beams) to a photographer for HotRod magazine lately and I will try to reach him to find out for you. If you don’t here from me in a few days bug me again been pretty busy lately!

          Mark

  132. I have a 2006 Sierra crew cab and wanted to lower the back an additional 2″ on top of the 2″ shackles I’ve installed but can’t seem to find anything on your site. When I try the applications for my truck it says you have options but they aren’t listed?

    • Jason,

      I am assuming you have leaf spring hangers which are welded on. If you do it’s my fault there parts aren’t on the site. Give us a call we have kits from 2/2 to 4/6 there just not on the site!

      Mark

  133. i have a 89 chevy C1500 stepside with a 4/6 belltech drop but need to change out my control arms so i wanted to buy your calmax upper and lower arms. Would mu belltech coilspring and sway bar work with these control arms?

    • Cesar,

      Yes you can use our arms with the Bell Tech coils, just make sure you get the CA2555L-4 lower arms (designed to work with a 2″ coil spring). Our CA2555L-2 is a 2″ drop arm but it is designed to work with the factory coils! Click here< /a> to see the arms

      Mark

  134. Hi,
    I have a 2008 Silverado Crew Cab 2wd, i want to lower it but i dont want to sacrifice my stock ride. Which would be best, 2/4 or 3/5. Also, do you have any pictures of both drops to compare for 08-12 silverados with stock 20″ wheels?

    • Luis,

      The one thing we don’t have enough of is pictures! If you put a kit on please send us a picture!!! You won’t really affect your stock ride (when running empty) with either the 2/4 or 3/5 kit. Of course, the more you lower the more you affect the ride but these kits ride very good! Let us know what you decide!

      Mark

  135. First of all this is my girlfriends email as I do not have one so no jokes please…. My problem is that I bought a djm 3/5 lowering kit for my 2012 ford f150 reg cab short box 4×4 my issue is that the back now sits lower then the front roughly 3/4 on a inch… Is there anything I can do to correct this??

    • Quin,

      If your 4X4 is like some we have seen you have a 1″ block in your spring pack that will screw up the lowering numbers. The solution to this is to call us and buy the leaf spring hangers (that lift) from the 4″ kit. They will lift you 2″ and if that is to much you can go back to your factory shackles which will drop you an inch for a total of 1″ lift. The hangers are not on the website but we can sell them to you if you call us. The part number is EH3209 and your cost would be about $141.

      Foxy_Mark

    • Ken,

      I am sorry to say we do not make a kit for the E-Series Fords. Our parts for the F-Series have been tried on the E-Series several times, all failed. There were dimensional differences in all cases and it appears no good way top make them work. I can’t be any more helpful suggesting anyone else, we just don’t anyone making these parts. Very sorry!!

      Mark

  136. I have a 2010 chevy silverado crew cab with a 4/7 drop that consists of spindles and coils in front and flip kit in rear.My alignment is off by one degree and my adjustment is maxed out already. Is there a upper control arm that corrects negative camber without giving me more drop? Thanks

    • Hector,

      You are not alone with the camber problem that comes from spindles + coils. We make an upper that comes with our 4″ front kit that may be able to help you. Click here to view the upper control arms and choose the CA2507U

      • is product # ca2507u the same as ca2507uel? The reason I ask is because I have a guy trying to sell me uca’s #ca2507uel and I can’t find any info on them. He says they are not listed online because I have to special order them. Does this sound right? Thanks again

  137. I have a 93 gmc extended cab short bed, i just bought the upper and lower control arms 3″ drop, and a rear 4″ flip kit. I was wondering if i need to adjust the carrier bearing? and also if i would need the pinion shims?

    • Kevin,

      If you have installed your 3/4 kit and needed to adjust the carrier bearing you would know by a low speed (0 – 20mph) vibration. This typically occurs from a stop when you accelerate. If you experience a high speed (50+mph) vibration you might need to adjust the pinion angle. If you don’t have these vibrations, then like most guy’s your good!

      Mark

  138. hey guys, i have a 06 gmc sierra v6 and im looking at doing a 4/6 drop but i have a few questions. first im running stock 17 inch wheeles and ive heard that there are clerance issues. also the kit im looking at dosent come with shocks and im wondering if my stock ones will work. and last i have never done a c notch and im curious how difficult it is to install. thanks!

    • Daniel,

      You don’t have to worry about wheel clearance with our Calmax Control Arm front ends. On your 06 if you used a spindle you would have to move up to at least 18’s to clear the wheels. Regarding shocks, on the front the factory length is ok but the rear needs to be shorter. The ride and handling can be greatly improved with the right set of shocks and I would highly recommend upgrading your shocks if you install your 4/6 kit! Click here for more info on the parts!

      Good luck and let us know what you do!!

      Mark

  139. I have a 1997 dodge ram full size cargo van I want to drop 3″ I cant seem to find exactly the right kit I need does any one have any suggestions????

    • Melow,

      No-one we know of makes an “off the shelf” kit for your Dodge Van. However if your Dodge is a 5 lug (1/2 ton) platform and we assume the van front suspension is the same as the Ram pick up then you can choose from the options we have, click here. These assumptions hold true for Chevy but not for Ford vans so you need to do a little detective work! In all cases the rear suspension on a van is different than the pick up’s so you really on your own there. A shackle may work, or maybe you can have the leaf springs de-arched. You will have to work that out. Good luck and let us know what you end up doing!!

      Mark

      • feb ’13 you were asked about dropping a dodge van, and you said:
        “…we assume the van front suspension is the same as the Ram pick up then… These assumptions hold true for Chevy but not for…”

        I’m looking at buying a 2011-13 Chevy Express, but if I can’t lower it AT LEAST 2″ I don’t want it!
        You guys don’t have it listed, but if it’ll take c-1500 parts that’d make my day.

        • Ty,

          We don’t really know if an Express shares parts with a C1500. In the past the front ends were usually the same and the rear end had different parts. If your tight with a Chevy parts guy you could cross reference suspension parts numbers. I don’t know of anywhere you can buy “off the shelf” lowering parts for an Express. Sorry!

          Mark

          • dang! There are a few pix (google search: lowered express van youtube: “custom g-van”) of some lowered vans plus there’s a whole club of them in Japan that look SLICK, sadly their website doesn’t tell HOW they dropped them.

  140. I am interested in purchasing your 5″ flip kit for my 85 GMC C1500. I would really like to be at 7″ or 8″ of rear drop though. I know to do this I will need to c-notch the frame. Do have a rear drop/lowering kit that will give me this much drop?

    • Scott,

      If you add a set of drop shackles to the flip kit you can get up to 7″ of drop. Your right about needing a “c-notch” with a 7″ drop, we have never made made one because that much drop causes to many issues. It’s hard to get the front down enough to look good with a 7″ rear drop plus alignment issues and in the rear the differential is getting very close the the bed. We didn’t want to make a kit that caused problems like that! Doesn’t mean you can’t do it though. That’s how you end up with a totally unique ride, so put on your customizing hat and when your done send us some pictures of what your created!!

      Mark

  141. I have my 1998 F150 Stepside EXT cab lowered 4 inches in the front with 2″ coils and 2″ spindles and 6 inches in the back with the DJM flip kit and c notch with 18×9.5 SVT Lightning wheels and when I turn, the inside of the rim rubs with the lower control arm. I can hardly turn at all and I dont know what to get. Is their a certain pair of lower control arms I can get so I can keep my wheels and turn with out any problems?

    • Roel,

      You may be able to solve your problem with our Calmax Control Arms. Click here to see what we have for you. Spindles do sometimes cause the problem your describing but usually on Chevy’s! Let us know what you do!!

      Mark

  142. JUST BOUGHT THE 3/5 KIT FOR MY 2011 FORD F150 SUPER CREW CAB 2WD . GREAT RIDE AND LOOKS GREAT !!!!! NO RATTLES OR ANY OTHER SIDE EFFECTS

  143. First time lowering a truck, been a car guy till I found this truck. So my question is I want to drop my 2004 GMC sierra ext. Step side. What would give me a very noticeable drop that would not require frame modifications?

    • Josh,

      Probably a 2/4 or a 3/4 kit would be the best thing for you! Click here to see the different kits available to you. You don’t need to modify the frame until you decide to go 6″ in the rear. Good luck and let us know how you choose to go!!

      Mark

  144. Great site will be visiting often. Just got a 94 silverado for a father and son project and the first thing we will be doing is dropping the front 4 and rear 6. Reading this forum was really helpful. Keep it up guys!

  145. i have a 3/4 drop with spindles in the front and hangers and shackels in the back and i am not having problems with the front end having a wobble. what can be the cause of that and how can it be fixed.

    • Miguel,

      There can be several reasons for a “wobble” in the front. Depending on the year of your truck it could be your steering gear (which can be adjusted), worn ball joints, tie-rod ends, wheel bearings, etc. These parts can be replaced if worn and you should consider making sure your alignment is correct. You might want to use a professional to help you diagnose if it is not obvious to you! Good Luck!!

      Mark

  146. Hi I currently purchased an 88 Silverado standard cab 2wd short cab. I am looking at drop kits and I am really drawn to yours, I just bought some torque thrust ll for my truck 16″ for the front and 17″ for the back.
    what drop would u recommend?

    • Danny,

      Having an 88 Silverado means you can do almost anything you want! You can drop the front 2″,3″,4″,5″ with springs or spindles, or control arms and you can drop the back 2″,3″,4″,5″,6″,7″ with shackles, or leaf spring hangers, or flip kits!. Click here to find out more about these parts. How much to drop is a personal choice and your wheel selection shouldn’t cause you any problems so check out the choices and if you have any questions let me know!! Good Luck.

      Mark

  147. I have a 89 chevy 1500 and I put on a 4/6 drop. I want 18×8 in the front and 18×9.5 in the rear what offset wheels do you suggest and tire size.

    • Will,

      Our recommendation is to stick to the factory offset. Having said that we are not wheel and tire experts, mainly because we see so few of the choices that are available out there. Your local wheel and tire dealer might be a better source. Good Luck!!

      Mark

  148. I have a 95 f250 powerstroke 2wd that i would like to drop 3/7 or so. the reason being is i have shorten the wheelbase from a longbox to a shortbox lenght to make a powerstroke looking lightning. In shortening the frame, cutting 16 inches out, raised the standard rake of my truck. Can this be c-notched or which kit can get me these numbers? thanks

    • Jerry,

      I am going to presume your F250 is a 8-lug truck and recommend our 3/5 kit. It is built for Superduty’s consisting of 3″ drop beams in the front and a 5″ rear leaf spring hanger and shackle kit. We have not made a flip or “c-notch” kit because it would lower the rear lower than you could lower the front and maintain a proper alignment. If you wanted a little more drop from the rear you could remove a leaf or have them de-arched a little. Of course if you go that route be careful, because you doing custom work and may not get the outcome you want. Click here to see the 3/5 kit. Send us a picture!

      Mark

      • Hi mark the link you gave me goes to a 3/4 kit. Is this the right kit. Can you get the 5 inch drop in the rear with it? Thanks for your help.

        • Jerry,

          Opps, the later F350’s have the 5″ kit and your 95 has a 4″ rear kit, sorry. Using the 4″ kit moves the rear leaf springs up on the frame rails as far as you can go. To get a little more drop you’ll have to modify the leaf spring in some way. Remove a leaf or de-arch, etc. Hope this clears up my mistake!

          Mark

          • Hi Mark or whomever. I have installed the 3/4 drop kit on my shortened frame f250 and have a vibration. the kit i installed was the drop beams and rear spring hanger and shackle. i also have shortened the frame 16 and 1/4 inches to make a short box reg cab f250. by looking at the drive shaft joint area by u joint it looks misaligned. i didn’t receive any shims when i bought this kit. what degree of shim should i order. thanks Jerry

          • Jerry,

            I can’t tell you which shim to get or if that would work. We make a 2, 4 and 6 degree shim kit, you could pick the 4 degree and see what effect you get. With what you have done it is a keep trying until you find the answer situation! Let me now what you do!!

            Mark

  149. I have a 99′ Ford F-250 2wd. Looking to lower the truck with your 3/5 kit you offer. Can you tell me exactly what DJM package I need. I also see that you offer shock replacments for the kit one chooses for their truck. I just had (4) new Pro-Comps put on last month. They are just replacments for the stock originals that were on their originally. Can i still use these shocks ( Im $200 into shocks already ) and would hate to have to buy (4) more. Look forward to hearing from you.

    • Jason,

      If your 99 F250 is a 8-lug truck you use SuperDuty parts or click here. Also your new ProComp shocks will work fine in the front (shock length remains factory), in the rear it would be better if you ran a shorter shock but since you have new shocks, paid for and installed, go ahead and use them. Watch out that they do not limit suspension travel, (factory length may limit travel).

      Mark

      • Mark, yes my truck is 8-lugged. Im definately agreeing on the suspension travel in the rear, not really saying that it will be or wont be an issue. But I would like a peace of mind that, that rear shock is doing its job. And not being limited on travel do to length. What length shock do you recogmend for the rear ( your DJM part number ).

        Thanks once again.

        • Jason,

          Our part number is 2200 for the correct fit on a 99 Superduty with our kit. Just click on the part number and away you go! Thanks for your interest!!

          Mark

  150. i have a 2000 ford expedition 2wd w/ the 5.4l v8 i have 20×9″ chrome lightning rims w/ a 295/40zr20 falken tire now my question is i wanna sit it as low as possible i already have a set of 2″ drop spindles but i wanna add 2″ upper/lower c-arms 3″ drop springs in the front now as for the rear the airbag kit that came with the truck was replaced with control arms what can i do to slam the rear equally as low or should i go back with airbags thanks

    • Joshua,

      The lowest kit we make is a 4″ front and a 4″ rear that you might have some contact issues with regarding your 295/20/20’s in the front. This depends on the offset and the shape of the fender liner. You can often “roll ” the inside of the fender lip to get enough clearance to solve any contact issue! Our rear coil springs are shaped like the factory parts and you can probably use and airbag in them if you needed to! Sounds like you can go 4/4, but you may have to make some adjustments to fine tune and then you just enjoy! Good luck.

      Mark

  151. Hello, I have a 94 sierra that I want to lower. I just bought new Moog coil springs about a yar ago and I really don’t want to get rid of them. I want to do a 4-6 drop, could I just do the spindles and control arms for the 4″ drop, then the flip kit in the rear? or would that through off my geometry in the front?

    • Phillip,

      To get a 4″ front drop on your 94 Sierra you can use a spindle + spring or a control arm + spring. Unfortunately you can use both (geometry issues), so click here to see the kits available for your Sierra! Good Luck

      Mark

    • Dylan,

      Sorry to report that we don’t have a kit that will lower a 4WD F250. We can do 2WD but the 4WD front end is different. I am not aware of any kits for the 4WD I-BEAM trucks, that doesn’t mean they don’t exist I have just never ran across them. Keep looking and maybe you can find a good one!

      Mark

  152. I have a 99 2wd suburban with one of your flip kits on it. I am looking to replace the u-bolts, do you have these replacement u-bolts? Thanks for any help…..James

  153. Hey guys,
    I just bought a 2000 s-10 2wd regular cab short bed. Wanna get it low. How low can I go with stock wheels?
    I was thinking of going with the control arm kit for now, but if I decide to go lower what would be my options?
    Thanks for the help already learned a ton from the website!!!

    • Alex,

      You can do a 3/4 kit with your stock wheels with no problems. If you want to go down more you run into issues! You can use drop coils or air bags in the front with the arms but you will create scrub-line and alignment issues. In the rear you will soon be up against the bed and wondering if you really want to cut holes in it! Be careful at this point, it will run great with a 3/4 drop, but what you decide do after will cause you trouble of somekind. GOOD LUCK!!

      Mark

  154. I have a 70 C10 with drum brakes, 2″ drop coils in the from and 5″ in the rear. I want to drop the front two more inches but not change the drum brakes. Can I achieve this with the Calmax lower control arms with 1″ coils and stock shocks? Also, will there by any issues with alignment?
    Thanks, Jeff

    • Jeff,

      The arms will work fine ( be sure to get the CA2355L-3 for drum brakes). We don’t make 1″ coils but all you have to do to make your 2″ coils a 1″ coil is take some heater hose and make a spring shim out of it by wraping around the end coil (effectively) making the spring a little longer)! You shouldn’t have any alignment issues with this setup, you’ll have adjust the toe and a little camber adjustment and away you go!!

      Mark

  155. I own a 69 Ford F-250 I’m converting from an 8 bolt pattern to a 5 bolt pattern, do U offer a 3″ drop spindle for the front ?.

    • Oscar,

      We do not make spindles for the I-beam Fords, we make drop I-beams instead. If you are completely changing over to the 5-lug suspension then our F-100 kits would work for you. Click here to check them out and if you decide to give it a try let me know I would like to follow your project!

      Mark

  156. Have a question….. I bought a 4 and 6 drop kit for my 08 Silverado crew cab everything work good but on the rear I didnt install the hangers is that the reason the rear axle hits on the frame? Or this there a kit to stiff in the rear a little

    Thanks you Robert

    • Robert,

      If you don’t install the hangers from the 6″ kit you basically have a 7″ kit! You still should have travel though, where is the axle hitting the frame?

      Mark

  157. i own a 1992 chevy xcab now and i used to own a 93 rcsb and i used yalls flip kit and loved it. my question is could i purchase just the flip kit with out the notch? bc im fabing up my own. i would apreciate the help
    kyle

    • Kyle,

      You can buy just the flip part of the kit, the part number if FK1025-F and your price would be $110.21. It is not on the website but you can call us directly (800-237-6748) and order it!!

      Mark

  158. I just bought a 1999 GMC Sierra 1500 std cab 2wd that has a DJM drop kit on it. It came with 22s on it and I am trying to replace them with 17s or 18s but I do not know how much of a drop the last owner put on it. I can see it has DJM control arms on the front and a flit kit and C-notch on the rear. How can I found out the specific amount of drop so I can find out the tire size that will fit?

    • Dave,

      If you have a flip kit on the rear then you must have a 4/6 kit. I think you can run 18’s for sure and probably 17’s with no trouble! Good luck and let us know what you do!!

      Mark

  159. hey guys i got my front end all completed now im in to doing the rear flip kit. i am not really wanting to remove the rear axle so whats the easiest way to put on the flip kit is there a place i can see some detailed step by step instructions to help me along

    • Jeremy,

      Sorry about the delay in getting back to you, just missed your question! If you know the part number of your flip kit you can go to your application on http://www.djmsuspension.com and scroll down to individual parts, there you should find downloadable instructions for you flip kit!

      Mark

  160. hey guys just got the 5/5 kit for my 1986 gmc 1500 and i just started the tear down however i am having some problems removing the old spring any sugestions?? i have the old shock off and the sway bar disconnected

    • Jeremy,

      Your going to need to loosen and remove the lower ball joint nut so you can lower the lower control arm. THIS MUST BE DONE WITH A FLOOR JACK SUPPORTING THE LOWER CONTROL ARM SO YOU CAN CONTROL THE COIL SPRING AS YOU UNLOAD THE SPRING, WHILE HAVING THE ENTIRE FRONT END SUPPORTED WITH GOOD JACK STANDS!! Now having stated the safe way to do this, please be careful when taking the tension off the spring, the best and easiest way is to use a hydraulic floor jack to support the lower control arm, loosen and remove the castle nut on the lower ball joint and drive the lower ball joint from the spindle with the jack providing support. The spring has a lot of tension even hanging all the way done with the shock removed so be careful go slow and be in control (floor jack).

      You can install the new coils in just the opposite way! Now, you must be safe – use good jack stands, good hydraulic floor jacks, bottle jacks, etc. Good luck and if you don’t have the right equipment get professional help, they can save you alot of grief!

      Mark

  161. I have a 97, 2 door, 2 wd tahoe with a 4/6 drop. I noticed that because of the drop, the rear wheels aren’t centered in the wheel wells and it’s VERY visible. (This was clearly going to be the case just by looking at the off centered holes in the plates that hold the Ubolts around the axle together) Is my only option to have the drive shaft shortened and drilling new (CENTERED) holes in plates that hold the ubolts in place?

    • Omar,

      If your 97 Tahoe has our rear flip kit it would be a 4″ kit, a 6″ would drop the rear too much! Also the axle brackets we built if properly installed would actually offset the axle to the rear because lowering would effectively make the drive shaft longer. It almost sounds like your axle brackets are installed the wrong way! Check and make sure the holes are offset towards the front (which moves the rear axle back towards the rear) this keeps the rear end at the proper length regarding the drive shaft!! Let me know what your looking at, then we can get you set up right!

      Mark

  162. Have a 1999 F350 dually with 24″ 10 lug – the front sits almost perfect but the rear neds to come down 3 to 4″ – suggestions? I see on djm you make 1″ and 5″ – do you have anything in between? Is the 5″ adjustable?

    Thanks in advance!

    • Frank,

      The 5″ rear kit is made up with 3″ leaf spring “eye hangers” ( front leaf spring mount ) and 2″ rear leaf spring “shackles” ( rear leaf spring mount ). Both the eye hangers and the shackles have multiple holes that allows you to modify or adjust ride height based on your needs! Click here to see pictures of the parts, I think they will do what you want!!

      Mark

      • Thanks for the quick response I will order tomorrow! Can I use my stock shocks or do I replace? Will I need to add air bags to help with the ride???

        Thanks again!

        • Frank,

          If you drop more than lets say 2″ you should probably go with a shorter shock. A shorter part will operate in the middle of the stroke where it is more efficient and has more room to move up and down. Adding air bags will help if you carry a load at times. When your empty you really don’t need them but if you load up and compress the suspension even more then you can use air bags to get you back to your “empty” ride height! Very handy when hauling and towing!!

          Mark

  163. the previous owner of my 2000 silverado removed one of the leaf springs and I added 2″ drop shackles but the frame and the axle are touching and it didn’t drop the full 2″, now what do I need to do?

  164. i have 1990 chevy silverado c1500 standard cab swb several years back droped rear app 2in to level
    truck now iam thinking of droping the front 2in was thinking drop spindle then found there was problem with rim clearance i dont want to grind or cut lower arm or buy new rims and tires so i started
    checking on lowering springs and some say the ride will be stock or better and some say the ride will be like riding in a logging truck then there was the shocks question new good shocks are about 60% less then 2in drop shocks after checking the spec found the following stock shock Extended Length:13.75 in Drop Shock Extended Length:13.50 in stock shock Compressed Length:9.5 in Drop Shock Compressed Length:9.0 in the travel lenght was the same i guess my question is will the differance of 1/4 and 1/2 inch cause a problem or performance issue ?
    thanks John

    • John,

      2″ drop springs should ride fine although you lose 2″ of travel. If you go the drop spring route you need to use a shorter shock to optimize the travel, but why not use a Calmax 2″ lower control arms? No wheel clearance or loose of travel and uses stock lenght shocks! Sounds like a natural for what your looking for. Let me know what you do!!

      Mark

    • Mike,

      The C1500 parts will work on the front just like a pick up(if you have a 5 lug wheel), but the rear of your van is different than a pick up. I don’t have any parts that will bolt up to the van platform and I don’t know of any “off the shelf” kits which will work. You can have a local shop maybe help you with the rear, check around to see if any of the local guy’s have dropped a full sized van!

      Mark

  165. I have a 1989 C1500 and I am wanting a 3/5 drop, what would be the best most budget friendly way to do so? I was thinking 3 Control Arm and flip the axle in rear and use the shorty schakles, but I guess my question would be would I have to C-notch the frame?

    • Will,

      The choices you have made are correct (parts wise). While one could argue that you don’t absolutely need to c-notch the frame I will tell you your ride will be crappy if you don’t c-notch. The 88-98 frame is flat over the axle (no relief for travel) and when you lower it more than 4″ your on your bumpstops all the time! Let me know what you end up doing!

      Mark

        • Will,

          Great question, it all depends on your personal taste and the way you want your truck to look. The 3/5 kit will give you a close to level look while the 3/4 will probably produce a slight rake to the front! Both are very good looks and it simply depends on what turns you on!! What to do you think?

          Mark

      • Will,

        That’s the beauty of the control arms on the 88-98 Chevy, they don’t cause any problems with the wheels or alignment or ride quality! And you get a 3″ drop by buying only one part. The 3/4 drop is a good choice for all around driving and performance. Let us know what you decide!

        Mark

        • I think just one more queston I plan on using The lower control arm with the 3/4 drop, but is is okay to us the upper with this kit as well and not have any problems

          • Will,

            You can keep the factory upper control arms with the 3″ Calmax arms, no problem! Just resist the temptation to add a lowered coil to the 3″ arms, they were designed to work with the factory coil and you might have alignment issues if you try that!

            Mark

  166. hey guys i have an 86 GMC 1500 im looking to lower it 4 or 5 inches in the front and 6 in the rear can you guys help me out?? if you can how much is shipping to canada??

    • Jeremy,

      The big drop on your 86 is a 5/5, 5″ front & 5″ rear! Click here to see your choices. I would need your exact address (w/postal code) to figure the ups charge, it is heavy stuff and costs abit to move around! Let us know what you do!!

      Mark

  167. I have installed a 2/3 lowering kit on my 2004 Ford Ranger. Since the instalation I have had a High speed (above 45 mph) wheel hop problem on the front end. If the road is smooth it drives fine, but when I hit a bump the wheels hop and at times the front of the truck will jump to one side or the other. I have had three sets of wheels and tires on the truck ranging from the original 15″ wheels to 16″ steel wheels with no change. Any suggestions?

    • Nick,

      This sounds like it may be worn radius arm bushings. These bushing do wear especially on the passenger side because of exhaust heat. Check those and if that’s not the problem let me know!

      Mark

  168. Hey guys,

    I ordered a pair of drop shackles for my stock 1994 f-150. Are there any other parts I would need to go along with them? Also, is there a general maximum tire height with this? I am wanting a new set of wide tires. what would be a good tire size to go with?

    • Landon,

      The rear leaf spring shackles is all you need to drop the rear either 1″or 2″ depending on the hole that you mount with. With the 2″ drop I wouldn’t think you have to worry to much about tire size, but watch the width is not so wide that your fender will make contact if you hit a big bump! Good luck and send a picture.

      Mark

  169. Hey guys, loving my DJM 4/7 kit I installed on my 2012 Silverado! I guess I’ve got the bug now, because I want to go lower! I am planning to do a tire and wheel upgrade, but want to do a little more drop still. I already have the DJM 4/7 kit using control arms in front, and the axle flip in the back. I want another 2″ drop in the front, and 2″-3″ in the rear. Can you tell me what my best option is to acheive this? Truck is a 2012 Silverado, 2wd, regular cab, short bed, V6 engine. THANKS!

    • JG,

      Thumbs up on your enthusiasm, love that you chose our kit! Going lower than the 4/7 gets you in EXPERIMENTAL territory. Don’t have any specific advise on how to go lower (we would have made a kit already) but I can advise you to not combine drop spindles with drop control arms (these parts work great by themselves but cause a lot of problems when combined), and look out for suspension travel and alignment. These two things kill your ride quality and your tires so consider carefully how you drop even more! Tell us what you do and how it works, or send us images and your story and you can be in “The Garage”

      Mark

  170. I have a 2012 dodge 3500 2wd I am trying to lower the rear about 2in. Do y’all offer anything for this or does anyone has anything available to do this?

    • Jack,

      At this time we don’t have any parts that will work on your rig. Sorry about this, you could try Bell Tech, or Ground Force to see if they have anything for your 2012! Let me know what you find out!!

      Mark

  171. Ive got a 2002 dodge quadcab v8. i got the kit with front coils and rear flip fit from yall. Ive install the flip kit and still get vibration at high speeds.I though this kit would eleminate the vibration. I did everything the instructions said to do. Is there something else iam missing. Is there a more detail on how to align the pinion angle. Thanks for any help you can give.

    • Antonio,

      If your sure the vibration is not coming from a wheel then try adjusting the pinon angle with your flip kit. Your flip brackets allow you to set your pinon angle to almost anything you want. If you don’t understand how to do this call our tech line at 310-538-1583 x-16 (Mike) Let me know if you need anymore help!

      Mark

  172. I have an ’07 Silverado on 24’s and I’m looking to buy the 4/7 drop. Will the wheels and tires fit without rubbing and also is that the complete kit no c-notch? I would also like to know if I would need the Calmax SuperShox for ride quality or will the stock shocks work?

    • Ben

      I just can’t tell you for sure if your 24″ wheel and tire combo won’t rub with our 4/7 kit. There are just too many combinations out there for us to keep up with! The rule of thumb is if you do not exceed the factory overall diameter of the wheel and tires and don’t change the offset then you can do anything you want. If you end up a little bigger on your overall diameter you will be the best judge (we have the 4/7 kit on our test truck with the factory wheels and tires and have no problems) to determine if you might have a issue. You are correct there is no “c-notch” with the kit (example our test truck) and the Calmax shocks are made to work directly with the rear kit. If you feel good about the measurement of your 24″ wheel and tire diameter then I think you are good to go!! Let me know what you do and maybe send some pictures. Here’s a link to the parts!

      Mark

  173. Hi, What experience do you have lowering the 2001 f350 4×4? want to get an idea of what i’m up against before i buy.

    Thanks

    • Ken,

      I am sorry to report that our F350 lowering kits only work on 2WD! You join a expanding list of curious 4WD Super Duty guy’s who want to lower their rigs. At this time I don’t know of anyone who is making anything to lower the 4WD Super Duties. Lowering a 4WD I Beam front end is a complicated thing beware of anyone who claims to have a kit, check them out very carefully!! If you find a kit please let me know who makes it! Good Luck

      Mark

    • Noe,

      Unfortunately Noe, no the 07 kit will not fit the 2010 F150. It is the control arms that are different, the rear kit will work! Let me know if we can help more!!

      Mark

  174. I have a 2008 Saturn Outlook Which is the same platform as the GMC Acadia and
    the Chevrolet Traverse. I would like to drop it 3″ in the front and 4″ in the rear. Are there any components avalable or can be ordered to accomplish this?
    It is AWD if that makes any differance. Are there differant lenght front Struts
    with the same mounts? I see you offer components for the Astro Van and it has a
    similar style front suspension. Hope you can help.

    Thanks for your time

    Bill

    • Bill,

      I am sorry to say we have no products for the Outlook/Acadia/Traverse platform. I am thinking you might find a spring kit from Eibach, or maybe Progress Automotive (more car applications). Hope you have good luck!

      Mark

  175. Hi i have a 2004 Dodge Dakota 2wd with the 4.7 liter V8. I have been tossing the idea of lowering it. I have factory 16 inch rims and tires on it now. I measured the gap between the splash guard on the front fender to the top of the tire and it read a 5 inch gap. I also did the same in the rear and got a 7 inch reading. I’m wanting to do a 3/5 drop on it. I talked to my local alignment guy and he suggested I use spindles instead of springs so it would align better and I would keep my ride quality. But I looked everywhere and I can’t find any. So could i use yall’s control arms and springs and get 3 inchs and proper alignment. Also can I use blocks in the back to acheive the 5 inch drop as well?

    • Patrick,

      Our listings seem to stop at 2002 for the Dakota, I think this is a mistake but I don’t have a truck here to test. If we presume that the Dakota’s from 97-04 are the same (which is what Edmunds thinks) Then you are correct that are Calmax Control Arms will work and all the rear kits including the 5″ rear hanger and Shackle kit would also work. Click here to see those kits! I really think the catalog listing of 97-02 is a typo! Keep me in touch!

      Mark

  176. Hi I was browsing through and been researching on how to lower my 1999 Chevy Silverado 2500 4×4.
    The look I am trying to get is almost a flush drop if you have any more detailed info that would be great..

    Thanks
    Chao

    • Chao,

      All the products we make for your platform unfortunately are for the 2WD models. Lowering products for your 2500 are very hard to find. You can drop the front maybe about an inch or so by adjusting your torsion bar keys but be very conservative, (keep in alignment) and the rear part should be the same as a 2WD. So maybe you could get a 1/3 or 2/3 or 4. You will have to experiment around and see whats works for you!Let us know what you end up doing!

      Mark

  177. i have a 1964 c-10 long bed pick up truck with rear leaf springs what kit would you put on my truck oh and i dont wanna use drop spindles due to having to convert to disc brakes and not being able to use the stock rims

    • Brent,

      On the front you should use our Calmax lower control arms, you get a 3″ drop and new ball joints, urethane bushings, mounting shaft and bump stops! If you keep your stock coil you can use stock lenght shocks. On the rear you need to check the width of your leaf spring, it is probably 2.25″ and we have a 5″ rear flip kit that will work great, or if you have a 2.5″ wide rear leaf you have a 4″ hanger/shackle kit or a 5″ flip kit to choose from. All these products are available by clicking http://djmsuspension.com/applications/chevroletgmc/c-w-rear-leaf-spring/! Let us know what you do and maybe send some pictures!!

      Mark

  178. I see you carry a lowering kit for a Dodge Durango 2WD. Do you have any suggestions where I can find a kit for a 2000 Durango 4×4?

    • Rapier,

      I spent some time asking around for you but was not able to find any 4WD kits. We used to make a kit over 10 years ago which required getting your steering knuckles and machining them to adapt new ball joints amongst other things, it was very expensive and was discontinued a long time ago. I am sorry to report there is nothing left of that program and no one I could find would even consider it. Good luck, maybe there is someone who can do it for you but it would probably be custom work.

      Mark

  179. hello i have an 04 sierra 2500 2wd and plan on doing the 6/8 drop and want to run 24s with a 275/30zr24 tire so my question is what offset will i need the wheels to be so there is no rubbing and fits perfect? thanks

    • Nick,

      You might think that since we develop from scratch, lowering kits we would know everything about it. This is true, mostly, and where it is true is with the wheel and tire package on the vehicle we prototyped and any other vehicle we see. What this means is as much as I would like to tell you “no problem” regarding your wheel and tire combo we have not seen and tested, I just can’t be sure. Now, I’m not ducking the question, rather I want your to know as much as possible before you lay down your hard earned dollars! Here’s the rule that rings true – if you don’t deviate from the factory overall wheel and tire height and offset then any wheel and tire combo will work! 99% of the time we prototype around factory wheels and tires. Your best resource might be a local shop that sells and installs lowering kits and wheel and tire packages, they might have specific expertise for you. My best guess is you are fine but if I told you that and your had an issue you would suffer because I guessed wrong. Good luck and let me know what you decide!!

      Mark

  180. I have a 1985 ranger with a beefy 351w and a ladder bar set up in the rear. I was looking to lower the truck I can lower the back any and all I want with the ladder bars.What I would like to know is if I use a set of dream beams with 3″ drop will have any problem with turn radius on the front tires and if so what will I have to do and if the DB3002-3 beams is what I need
    Thanks John

    • John,

      The Dreambeams shouldn’t cause any problems with turning radius. In fact you should see a three inch drop from where you set now even with the 351 in your engine well. You Ranger sounds like a monster, send us some pictures!!

      Mark

  181. I have a 1993 Ford F-150 Supercab 2wd with the 4.9 l6. I am interested in dropping the truck 2″ in front & back. Do you recommend the dream beams that will give me a 3″ drop or can I just replace the coil springs. This will be a daily driver and I want to keep the best ride quality. Also do I need to replace the shocks or a camber kit or anything else to keep the wear and tear on the other parts to as normal a rate as possible. Planned on using the 2″ shackles in back to drop that.

    Thanks for any suggestions and help,
    Scott

    • Scott,

      If you try to lower your F150 with coil springs you will have negative camber problems which you won’t be able to adjust out. So using the beams for a 3″ drop is the best solution for you! The ride doesn’t change because you still have the factory spring, with full factory suspension travel and you can use a factory length shock as well! Then on the rear you can use that shackle kit for 2 inches of drop and if you want a little more drop you can also install brackets (hangers) on the front end of the leaf spring for an additional 2″ of drop. The hanger shackle combo can give you a total of 4″ or 3″ if you change mounting holes on the shackle. At a 4″ drop (in the rear) I would recommend running a shorter shock absorber. Let us know what you choose and maybe send a picture!!

      Mark

      • Thanks for the info, I believe I’ll start with the 3″ front & 2″ rear and see how that works. I will send some pictures when finished.

        Thanks again!
        Scott

  182. I recently bought drop spindles for an 86 C-10 with the 1.25in rotors. I have gone to both Advanced Auto, Auto Zone and Pep Boys trying to find an inner wheel bearing that will seat on the spindle but no luck. The outter bearing seats perfectly but the inners will not go onto the seat. After “mic-ing” them I found that the spindles were .005in too small for the bearings. In my experience I have never had to press on or heat up a wheel bearing for it to fit on applications such as these. Can you offer some assistance as to what I need to do? I have thought of having the spindles machined down to fit the bearings. Again, I have been thru the full GM inventory at all the major auto parts stores.

    • Matt,

      You contacted us @ tech@djmsuspension.com and received the following “The measurement on the inner barring is 1.374″. Our process is that every part is inspected but it’s the responsibility of a person to do it so you know how that is. We stand behind our product and will make it correct in any case. As an installer you can take some emery cloth ( the kind they use for copper pipe it’s about 1 1/2″ wide and comes in a roll) you should use the roughest you can find 60 is fine and just sand a bit .005 come pretty quick. Don’t worry about the warranty it will always be good if you want to try it.”

      This is good advise for these types of situations, thanks for your question it will help not just you but everyone who reads your question!!

      Here’s what Matt did,
      I just stopped by the auto parts store and grabbed some Emory cloth. After about 1 min of work it slipped on perfectly. Thanks for your help. You will always have high marks in my book!

      Thanks Matt!!

      Mark

  183. Hey i just bought a ’99 chevy 2 door, 2wd and im looking to lower it to lower the center of gravity and get a stiffer ride. Ive got an ls1 on the stand ready to go in and im not wanting to drag frame but to lower it and get a more ‘race car’ handling to it. im wanting to put 20″ wheels on it and thinkin about using a 2/4 drop but not sure if it will give me what i want. Would appreciate some input. thanks

    • Brian,

      What a great project! You can do almost anything you want suspension wise. A 2/4 kit would be fine, I would recommend using control arms rather than springs because you still get the full suspension travel with the arms and you lose travel with springs. You could also do a 3/4 or even a 4/6! I drove our 99 (we used it for prototyping) with a 4/6 kit for a couple of years without worries. I didn’t have a LS1 only a chip and a better exhaust but the 4/6 kit was no problem for everyday driving! In fact with helper airbags and an on-board compressor I hauled a 450lb table saw to my home shop from a trade show with guys scratching there heads after they loaded it in the bed and I just drove off! We now have a swaybar set that we didn’t have then you might consider, it is a 1.5″ tubular front bar and a 1″ rear bar and the set will dramatically improve the handling. With your LS1 the bars might be help! Click here to see the kits and individual parts for the 99-06 Silverado, and let us know what you end up doing! Maybe a picture as well!!

      Mark

  184. Hi I have a 1992 Chevy SIlverado 1500, V8 Standard Cab and wanted to lower it 4/6. What kit would come complete and should I use? Will I need to also buy new shocks? Is it better to use spindles and coils or lower control arms and coils for the front?

    PLease give me an idea of what’s best to use, and what kit I can but and how much it would cost me.

    • Jerry,

      If you are going to use 15″ wheels control arms are the way to go, if you run bigger wheels it really doesn’t matter that much if you use control arms or spindles in your set up. The top of the line kit would be the DJM2555-4/6 and add CA2555U upper control arms to the kit. This would provide the best ability to align your front end while optimizing the upper ball joint angle and give you the most amount of travel (best ride). Having said that you really can’t go wrong if you choose the DJM2056-4/6 kit (with spindles). Let us know which way you go!

      Mark

  185. I just wanted you guys to know this was my 1st time installing one of your kits it was the best kit I have ever installed. It was a 3-5 drop for a 2003 Tahoe. I removede the bump stops completely and the rest of the kit installed like a dream. I have installed. I have installed Bell Tech & McGaughy’s kits in the past but now I’m a lifer with you guys. By the way the guy that said that this kit kill the ride on Tahoe must have done something wrong when he installed it. the ride on my Tahoe is firm but not harsh and it DOESN’T handle like a DUMP TRUCK anymore. Thanks, Guys Rick

    • Rick,

      Thanks for the compliments, we try very hard to build quality parts that fit and work as advertised. Send us a picture of your lowered Tahoe!

      Mark

  186. I have a 1996 chevy c1500 and i just bought and installed you 3″ control arms and 4″ shackle and hanger. but the rear sits high still, i have a roll pan and no room for a spare tire, is their any thing i can do with out changing the whole setup.

    • Miguel,

      I am sorry to report to you there is no easy way to drop the rear more. What you need to do is put the factory hangers and shackles back on and “flip” the rear end and use a short shackle to net out 5″. From there you can choose 5, 6 or 7 inches of drop by changing shackles. Hope this helps you out!

      MArk

      • i have a 93 gmc 1500 xc, and was wondering about getting the 5″ drop. i have djm 3/4 drop, now if i do the flip kit. make it 6″ in the rear. i notice that the shackles i have from u have 2 holes, can i use the lower one to raise the leafs back up and get the 5″ drop i want?

        • Kevin,

          If you want to get a 5″ drop on your 93 X-Cab using the 6″ flip kit and a shackle is the right way to go, only you need a shorter shackle than factory. Also note that you need to put the factory leaf spring eye hangers back on (replacing the 4″ lowering kit eye hangers). The shackles you have will drop the rear 2″ using the top hole or 1″ using the inside hole because they are longer than factory shackles, using them with a 6″ flip kit will result in a 7″ or 8″ drop depending and which hole you choose. Now to get the 5″ drop you want remove the 4″ kit and install the original factory hangers (front leaf spring bracket) (if you don’t have yours get them from a junk yard they are all the same for 88-98 C1500) install the 6″ flip kit and here’s the secret use a “shorty” shackle to lift it up 1″ click here to see what I mean! That’s it, if you want to go 6″ put the factory shackles on if you want to go 7 or 8″ use the shackles from the 4″ kit you have. Good luck and send a picture!!

          Mark

  187. I’ve got a 04 Ram 1500 v6 sitting on 22’s, and I’m looking into your 3/5 kit. I’ve done some measurements on my vehicle and I think I’ll need something a little more radical. I saw that I could also install the 2″ springs in the front and get a total of a possible 5″. Now I’ve been reading a few articles on your site, and for the rear the 5″ is achieved by lifting shackles. If I were to not use the supplied shackles would I encounter any clearance problems? I’m also curious about which shocks to purchase. Thanks!

    • Zack,

      We did not intend for the arms and coils to be used together on your Ram. They of course will fit but you may have some negative camber issues. On the rear if you don’t use the longer shackles you will get 6+ inches of drop. Your ram will be very low, we have never installed that combination of parts here so we can’t be sure about clearance but if you are careful and check clearance as you go it will help eliminate “suprises”! Send us some pictures of your super low Ram!!

      Mark

  188. I have a 2005 ford f-150 i just lowered the front end using the lower lowering a arms , and i sent the truck to be aligned n now the tires are wearing on the inside tread there smooth on the inside now , they were brand new. so i was wondering what else could be done and if you have heard of this before
    thank you

    • Bill,

      You should not have any issues with alignment using the lowering control arms. Check to make sure the alignment is correct, it can’t be right and you experience abnormal tire wear. Give us a call if you want to help figure out what is going on with your alignment. 800-237-6748 ask for tech!

      Mark

  189. buen dia, tengo una s10 1993, quiero saber lo que ocupo para bajarla 4″ de atras y 3″ adelante, cual es el kit completo, y cuanto cuesta, gracias.

  190. I have a 2006 chevy 1500 2WD. I put a 4/6 drop kit on about 4 years ago. The right side lower ball joint boot has a tear in it. The ball joint itself is fine, but the grease that comes out of the tear tends to make a mess. Can i buy a replacement ball joint at a parts house or does DJM offer replacements.

    • Preston,

      You can get a new ball joint from us here or use MOOG part number 6541 and buy from a local NAPA store or any auto parts store that carry ball joints!

      Mark

  191. I just bought a 1957 chevy p/u and would like to lower it 3inches in the front and 2 inches in rear. I can take care of the rear with blocks on the axle but the front has a I-beam axle with drum brakes and leaf springs. What would you recomend?

    • Tom,

      We don’t have any parts or expertise regarding your 57. There are however many choices for you, there are Corvette suspensions modified to fit a 57, as well as high quality air ride kits built specifically for your 57 Chevy! If you want only a couple of inches out of the front may be you could have the front leaf springs “set down” by a professional leaf spring company. You would have to already determined you won’t have a clearance or travel issues with a lowered leaf spring set up! Good luck, let us know what you do and send a picture!!

      Mark

  192. I am lowering a 1994 2wd F150 short bed. Other than your 3/5 kit do you recommend I purchase any other parts to complete the upgrade? What anti-sway bar kit would you recommend? I plan on going to 20in. wheels. Thanks for the help.

    • Brian,

      The 3/5 kit will give you all the suspension parts you will need to lower your F150. I will recommend new shocks because you have lowered the truck and to optimize performance and ride quality the proper length shocks are important. In addition to length, having shocks that are valved with lowered truck in mind also helps ride quality and performance. There are many fine shock absorbers on the market and DJM also manufactures our own line “Calmax SuperShox”. It is important of course to have the correct length, for the front you want a 14″ shock fully extended and the rear a 19″ shock fully extended. You can find all of these parts by clicking here

      We don’t make swaybars for this application but if you can find them it would probably help your high performance handling. Were are splitting some fine hair here but a good swaybar set can really make your truck behave properly!

      Thanks for your question!

      Mark

    • Lee,

      We don’t make anything for the Sequoia either, sorry. I wish I could point you to someone who make a aftermarket suspension kit for your Sequoia but I can’t. Wish we could be more help for you. Good Luck with your search!

      Mark

  193. What’s up….I have a 2003 2wd F150 regular cab long-bed with 4.2 v6. Here’s what I’ve done to it so far: I’ve got Suspension-Max 3″ drop coil springs with street perfomance Beltech shocks and a homemade rear flip-kit with Gabriel air-shocks that gives about 4 to 5 inch drop in the rear. Now, the front sits higher with the 3″ springs than before with the cut factory springs, maybe because it’s a v6, I dunno. After a couple months of driving, the truck still doesn’t sit the way I want it, so here’s my question. Would 2″ drop control arms combined with the 3″ coils be a bad idea? I’m running stock tire sizes and not really into big blingin wheels which is why I’m looking at control arms instead of spindles. I can get an extra inch out of the rear without c-notching but I just have concerns for the front. I don’t think the ride would get any harsher with the drop control arms and stock wheels but I am worried about tire rubbing and so forth. Sorry for the long email but I try to give as much info that is needed for my question on combination of 2″ drop control arms and 3″ drop coils that looks as if I only got 2″ outta them.

    Thanks

    • Zach,

      We build a 4″ front drop kit that combines a set of 2″ coil springs with a 2″ Calmax lower control arm and a Calmax upper control arm.The lower arm and the coil give you the 4″ drop while the upper arms provides enough alignment adjustment to allow you to set the alignment to factory numbers and the upper arms set the upper ball joint angle to provide the maximum range of motion. What exactly will happen with your 3″ springs we cannot know. We did not build a 3″ coil spring because alignment to factory specs was nearly impossible. Because you have a V-6 (lighter weight) you may be closer to a 2″ drop than you think! Regarding factory wheels and tires, most of the R&D we do involves factory wheel and tires and a general rule for interference is not deviating from the overall factory wheel and tire diameter.

      Mark

      • Thanks for the feedback, Mark. I apologize for the second email, I wasn’t sure if you received the first one and I am a little impatient when it comes to things like this. I got to say, the other day I lined my truck up with another just like mine, but with stock suspension. I was flabbergasted cuz my truck was only an inch shorter than the other but the other truck is rollin on shorter tires than mine. I prolly will get 235 size tires since the tires I have are worn out and litte too tall. Afterwards, I may get the control arms then but I want to see how the truck sits with the new and shorter tires. It may drop it down a little but I really wanna shorten the gap between the tires and fenders. So until then, we’ll see. I got what I needed to know and I guess the 3″ coils will work with the drop control arms cuz the front end is lighter.

        Thanks again

        • Zach,

          Your welcome, when you go to the smaller tire size you will increase the gap between your tire and the fender so you may still be frustrated with the look! Good luck with your F150 project and send us some pictures!

          Mark

  194. Quick question…I am looking to lower my 2012 Silverado, which is a 2WD, regular cab, V6. I am most interested in your 4/6 drop, but am curious about the front dimensions. Other manufacturers claim that using the coil to lower is not affective with a V6 truck, that the front will sit higher than the rear. Since your kit uses controls arms to achieve the drop, will the stance be correct, even with a V6 engine?

    • JG,

      You are thinking correct! Because were not changing the coil spring you will get the full drop even with the V-6. The only reason you wouldn’t with the coil is because of the weight difference between the 6 and 8 cylinder engines. Thanks for your question!

      Mark

      • Thank you…the rear drop of 6″ is achieved without a c-notch or other “major” mods correct? Do you have any options to make the drop a 4/7, without major mods, to level it out a bit more?

        • JG,
          The 6″ rear drop is done by “flipping” the rear axle from below the leaf spring to the top of the leaf spring. And you are correct about not needing a “c-notch” to do this. If you want to go 4/7 just use the 4″ front Calmax Control arm set instead of the 3″ and if you have the 6″ rear kit it can be a 7″ drop kit by not installing all of the 6″ brackets!
          Mark

  195. I have a 1998 Ranger, and was wondering if the 4″ rear drop from the 97-earlier would work? My Ranger has the same 7.5″ axle, and so much as I know, the back half of the Rangers were mostly unchanged from 93-late 00’s.

  196. I’m working on a 2001 Chevrolet Tahoe 4X4. The rear end sets about 5 inches higher than the front does. I see you sell ALL the parts I’ll need to lower the rear 4 inches. Four inch Springs,spring installation kit shocks and sway bar links. My question is how much will this setup affect my ride quality. Oh yea I am running 265/60-R18 tires and wheels all round that ride smooth and quiet now and will keep this setup after the lowering project is complete. Thanks for your help…POP

    • POP,

      Thanks for your question, dropping 4WD’s is a little trickier and you should error on the conservative side. Having said that, we have found from feedback and testing the 3″ rear coil spring setup rides enormously better than the 4″ spring on the 2WD platforms. This is especially true when you have people in the back seat! Here is a link to our parts page that applies to your Tahoe. Good luck and send us some pictures fo your project!

      Mark

  197. I have a 1994 Ford Ranger that I am looking to lower! I am confused about what the kit all comes with because every place I look each kit is different online. My coil springs have been cut so I know I have to replace them. But not sure if I have to get lowering springs also or need to go back to stock springs to lower it properly and if I need to replace the leaf springs to lowerings leaf springs also. I need some advice what needs to been done so I can order the proper parts that I actually need to lower my truck right and to ride smoothly with no problems. This is the first I have ever done this!! Thanks John

    • John,

      You ask great questions and many of them can be answered at http://www.djmsuspension.com! Basically because of alignment issues you need to run your factory spring (uncut)and use the “Dreambeams” to get a fully alignable 3″ drop in the front. In the rear your best bet is to use the factory leaf and flip the rear axle to the top of the leaf spring. Lowered leaf springs lower great but just don’t ride good which is why we never released one!

      Good luck, let us know how you do!!

      Mark

  198. We have a 1972 Chevy Suburban 2wd. Front coils and discs,rear coils.Will the DJM2356-3/4 kit work for us? Also, is there anything other than new shocks that need to be installed with the kit, such as a rear “C”notch? Thanks

    • Matt,

      The Calmax Control Arms will work if you have a disc brake front end and your talking about a 5 lug wheel. The rear coil spring is designed for the C-10 pick up rear end and were not sure what would happen with the Suburban platform. My guess is you would get a little more than a 4″ drop. It would be very interesting to find out, so if you would like to experiment with your Suburban I will work with you to see how we can get you what you want, please let me know!!

      Mark

  199. i recently bought a ’92 f150 reg short bed. and was wondering if you have any local dealers/installers in the marietta/atlanta area? i wanna lower the rear end to give it a more aggressive stance. what do you recommend?

    • Wayne,

      I would contact “Summit Racing”. They have a big warehouse and retail store in the Atlanta area, just Google them!

      Mark

  200. I have a 95 chevy silverado and it bounces in the rear. my 95 has been lowered in the front but I dont think its been altered in the rear. please help…

    • Katrina,

      There are a lot of reasons which could cause your rear end to bounce (worn shocks, over tightened shackles, etc.), the front being lowered and not the rear might contribute so can you send us a picture of whats going on under your truck or a shot of the stance? Might help to diagnose whats going on !!

      Mark

  201. I bought a ’91 S-10 with a V8 conversion that has already been dropped but there’s only about 1″ of suspension travel in the front before it hits the bump stops.

    It looks like the A-arms are a good way to go but what springs do you recomment? Or would the spindles be a better bet with the springs that are in the truck now?

    Thanks,

    • Al,

      Without knowing what spring is in the front end you might start there. You need more than 1″ inch of travel for a good ride and your coil spring is the biggest contributor to suspension travel. Because your S-10 now has a V-8 all of our calculations concerning ride height are not accurate. For example our 2″ coil spring would give you a 2″ drop with the original 4-cyl engine but might provide a 3″ drop with the additional weight of the V-8. You might have to experiment to find the best coil spring for ride quality and then you can add our spindle for a 2″ additional drop or our Calmax control arm for a additional 3 inches of drop. First get good travel back with a proper coil spring! Let us know what you do!!

      DJM Tech

  202. i have a 98 ranger with djm uppers and lowers with 2″ drop springs…wont stay lined up and eats tires..i have 20″ alba big berthas so tires aint cheap. all ball joints have been replaced and caster/camber kit installed…also passenger side sits appx. 1 to 1.5 inches higher…i want to bag it but am worried abt further problems..can you send info and possibly pics of install..i dont want to go back to factory height but will if needed..can i use factory uppers with djm lowers and visa versa..help please

    • Cameron,

      With the part you have installed you should not have negative camber, and they alignment should not change on you. Also you should be almost level from side to side, not a 1.5″ different. So there something going on with your Ranger. Can you be more specific about what you have done and how you did it? we will try to get you figured out !!

      DJM Tech

  203. I bought your 67-70 Chevy c-10 lower control arms. The stud for the shocks are way too big to fit the stock shocks, do I have to buy djm front shocks to go with the lcas? The instructions said I would be able to use my stock shocks, but the shock stud will not fit. Please advise.

    • Dan,

      The shock studs we use on our C-10 arms are bought from GM. They of course change things without telling us but I think probably it is the sleeves installed in your shocks are different for some reason. You can maybe push them out and the bushings will fit over the stud. Or I can send you some sleeves to try, (pushing the steel sleeve out of your shocks normally works in this situation)! Let us know how you make out.

      DJM Tech

  204. (1969, C-10, 1/2 ton)
    I have two problems with my control arms;
    The supplied grease fittings fit in the control arms, but do not fit in the ball joints. Are the ball joint grease fittings a different size? On top of that, I was shorted one grease fitting.
    The second problem is the bump stop bolts will not tighten, the studs in the bumpstop turm not allowing the bolts to tighten. I also cannot get the bolts to loosen in order to remove the bumpstops. So now they are loose with about 1/4″ space.
    Can you advise me on how to handle these problems?
    Thank You

    • Dan,

      The grease fitting we supply for the arms have 1/4X28 dia. and thread pitch. The ball joints we buy form ball joint guys and some of them probably have metric grease fittings. My best guess would be 6mm x 1.0 for the ball joints. Now they should have been on the kit and we apologize if they were not and let me know if you are unable to find the proper grease fitting!

      DJM Tech

  205. I have a 1995 GMC witha 4/6 drop installed, which includes droped spindles,coils and a flip kit and c notch. I have lost a lot of my turning radius, it seems that the tierods are in the way, I have stock wheels and tires. Is there a part that i need to get to fix my problem? or do I have to get bigger wheels and tires? or smaller wheels and tires?

    • Jose,

      Your turning radius issue is most likely caused by the factory wheels. They make contact with the factory control arms when your turn limiting your turning radius! Don’t worry though, you can carefully grind some relief in your control arms or even better move up to larger wheels. It is a common problem with your truck to have this issue with spindles making contact with the factory lower control arm and solved usually by upgrading to 18″ wheels!

      DJM Tech

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