hello, I have question on lowering my 06 chevy, wt, reg cab, long bed, rwd. would like to drop front 3″ and the rear 4″. what parts do you advise that I buy.
The best and thriftiest way to get a 3/4 drop on your Chevy is the 3/4 kit on this page. Calmax lower arms up front for a bolt in 3″ drop and a 4″ leaf spring hanger and shackle kit to finish out the rear. If it’s time for shocks just add the Calmax shocks for that kit, they will be the correct length and valving! Good luck and send some pictures!!
I have a 1978 Dodge D100 step side. Where’s the love for old dodges? One of the big three produced trucks, spanning 20 years of manufacture and with mostly the same setup. There has to be someone who can help us loyal Dodge owners, right? Just in case my truck can be loaned for an extended period if necessary!
Sorry to report that no one I know of builds a kit for your Dodge. I had a 72 D100 years ago and fondly remember a truck I thought to be indestructible! I think a front fender might have weighed as much as some of the little tiny cars of today!! The only way to lower your Dodge is a total custom job. Maybe you can find a shop locally who can help you modify part and still keep alignment. If you do send some pictures, I would love to see what you have done!!
I have a stock 2007hd I use to tow my 5th wheel. I need some help with rear springs. I also want to lower the truck 2″ in front and 4″ in rear. Any Ideas?
I think you can do what you want here, but what help do you need with rear springs?
Hello, just inquiring if you make or can make 2″ drop lca for ford raptor.
We don’t make anything that knowingly fits the Raptor! It seems tailored to the lift-em up guys. Checking around I didn’t find anyone building lowering parts, sorry about that.
I put a complete kit on my 2013 Ford F150 r/c, s/b. Its a 3-5 kit with lower arms and flip kit on the rear, truck looks great! BUT I have a vibration from start and low speed. Feels good on highway. Is there a fix? I hope there is, I love the way it looks, but I love performance too. Hope you can help, thanks
Most likely the culprit is your pinion angle. If your differential looks to be pointing up too much loosen and rotate the rear end down a little, or if pointing down too much rotate up a little. Be careful, don’t adjust to much your probably very close to being good. Let us know what happens!
I will try changing the pinion angle, but I see a lot of talk about carrier bearings, I do have two piece drive shaft on my truck. Could this be my problem maybe?
It is very unusual to have a two-piece drive shaft on a short bed regular cab, but if you have one the remedy is to space the carrier bearing up towards the bottom of the truck between 1/2′ to 1″. We have not seen one before on your truck but a shim to raise the bearing works to correct the low speed vibration on other applications! Sorry we do not have a kit to do this on your truck. Please send a picture of your truck and the drive shaft.
I’m not sure if this is where i ask question but if so here it goes. I have a calmax 4/7 drop kit on my 2011 gmc sierra single cab short bed. I’m trying to lowered it 6/9 can i use a spring in front to get the extra 2″ and a shackle on the rear to get the other 2? I know about the clearance issues in the front and back but i have removed my inner fenders and will be making custom ones in the near future. As for the back do you guys sale a c-notch kit that’s either bolton or has to be welded, thanks you hope to hear from you soon
That’s a pretty ambitious project! On the front you may have an alignment issue at a 6″ drop, if you do try these (click here) eccentric bushings for your upper arms. Regarding the rear, we do not make a “C-Notch” kit. Your frame is a box design and you just can’t cut out a little and then reinforce the frame. I know you can find c-notch kits out there just make sure that you do not crush the frame during installation and try to avoid welding on your frame as much as you can (heat can change the temper of the frame). Send some pictures when your done I would love to see a streetable Silverado that low!!
Will do thanks for writing back to me.
Hi I have a question for you I have installed your DJM lowering kit in my 72 f100 3 inch dream beams 4inch shackles and I am very happy with it. My question is not knowing how the beams are constructed are they okay to bend to correct the camber on my truck?
Well, you should not bend them or any suspension component on purpose! The camber is set by the coil spring length, so with correct factory coil your camber should come in ok. If your lower than 3″ in front a longer spring will correct negative camber, or if the front is to high and you have positive camber a shorter coil spring will fix that. Now having said all that if everything else is good and you need to tweek the camber a little bit people have been known to bend the beams. The dream beams are solid from the pivot bushing to the first weld joint and then .25″ wall rectangular tubing to the king pin assembly. Send me some pictures of your “Down Under” F-100!
No problems what email address? with the bending was looking at lowering the front another inch or so.
Best way to get images to me is email@example.com!
I have a 1970 Ford f-100 2wd short box with your complete lowering kit (4 inch rear) . Is my pinion angle now changed? If so what is the best way to address this? Thanks, jim
Yes your pinion angle has changed after installing the 4″ rear kit. Your pinion angle also changes when you carry a load or pull a trailer or change the ride height for any reason. Pick up trucks are designed to operate in a very wide range of pinion angles and you don’t really need to worry about it until you get to the 6″ or more drop. Generally if you have a pinion angle issue you will feel a vibration while driving, but if everything feels normal you good to go!
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