The Professional Choice

2007 Silverado with a Calmax 3/6 kit

2007 Chevy Silverado Suspension Drop by DJM


DJM installs their new 3-6 Calmax drop kit for the new Chevy

Story & photos by Marshall Spiegel

Originally Published in 2007

The new ’07 Chevy Silverado has to be one of Detroit’s best efforts of late. It is a big, robust, comfortable pickup with more than enough power; excellent interior appointments and ride and handling to die for. It features stock ride height of 22 ¼”

in front and 25”in the rear. Like most new American vehicles, the rear is noticeably higher than the front, resulting in a stance that is unappealing too much of the market.

Drawing on the success of the drop kits they designed, engineered and are now manufacturing for the ’07 Chevy Tahoe, DJM Suspension of Gardena, CA, has created a line of drop kits for the new Silverado. The dimensions of the drop kits are 2¼ inches by 3 inches; 2¼ by 4½; 3¼ by 5; 3¼ by 6; 4¼ and 7. As always, the DJM engineers’ primary consideration was to produce lowering kits that would not adversely effect the Silverado’s ride and handling.

One of the lowest of DJM’s new drop kits for the ’07 Silverado, 3 ¼ “ by 6”, is achieved by installing specially engineered upper and lower control arms to lower the front and a flip kit and special hanger brackets to drop the rear.

By positioning the leaf spring bolt so close to the gas tank, the manufacturer has challenged the installer who must remove the leaf spring pack to flip the axle. The obvious approach is to remove or loosen the gas tank and an interfering section of the exhaust system so that the leaf spring bolt can be removed. Removing the gas tank is laborious; time-consuming and expensive for the customer. DJM is offering a quicker and easier technique by removing a few elements such as the “U” bolt, the leaf spring center bolt and the brake lines; supporting the axle on a floor jack with wheels and moving the axle sideways just enough so the leaf spring clears the axle. The following photos show exactly how the DJM approach gets the job done without the need for removing the gas tank and offending exhaust system components.

To further simplify the job and make it as easy as possible, the new kits from DJM come complete with ball joints installed and all components ready to install. However, to prevent damage in shipping, the zerk fittings for lubricating the twin tube sleeves are not screwed in place at the factory. Therefore, the enclosed directions require the installer to simply screw the zerk fitting into the predrilled lube holes and add lubricant through the zerk fittings.

As you can see from the accompanying photos, installation of the DJM 3¼ X 6 drop kit is clean and straightforward, giving the Silverado a considerably more aggressive and attractive stance.

(This kit is available at the Check out the photo gallery below to see how the parts went on, and click on the (  I ) in the picture to read the caption!


[img src=]14460Before Measurements
The best way to begin any lowering job is with good starting measurements. The most accurate way to do this is to measure from the center of the wheel to the fender lip. No matter what wheel and tire combination you use this relationship remains the same. So if you install the lowering kit and upgrade your wheels and tires it won't affect your after measurement! Here we measured 22 1/4'
[img src=]12940Proper Foundation
The first step of course is to remove the wheels. Having the proper jacks and jack stands makes the job easier and much safer. Make sure your jack stands are rated for the weight of your vehicle and a good hydraulic floor jack and bottle jack are indispensable
[img src=]12960Tie Rod End
Lets get going by removing the tie rod end
[img src=]13380Lower Ball Joint
Loosen and remove the lower ball joint nut
[img src=]12540Safety
Notice the jack stand under the frame and the bottle jack ready to go!
[img src=]11910Separating the Lower Control Arm from the Spindle
Using the bottle jack to lift the control arm up carefully pull the spindle down and away from the lower ball joint
[img src=]12240Struts
Now you can loosen and remove the bolts securing the struts to the lower control arms
[img src=]12680Pivot Bolts
Loosen and remove the pivot bolts and your ready to pull the factory lower control arm away from the mounts
[img src=]13070Calmax Arms
Here are the Calmax arms ready to prepare for installation. Note: Use the installation helper to record your information
[img src=]12500New Nuts
These new nylon lock nuts are to be used on the pivot bolts when the arms are installed
[img src=]12330Pivot Grease Points
The zerks are not installed at the factory because they have been found to be broken off during shipping. They are easy to install, simply screw them in!
[img src=]12320Ball Joint Grease Point
And again screw the ball joint zerk in place
[img src=]12100Grease It Up!
Apply grease through the zerks to make sure the passages are clear
[img src=]12170Inner Sleeve
Liberally apply grease to the inner sleeve and insert making sure there are no burrs. Also grease up the shoulders of the urethane bushings before you install
[img src=]11950Ready to install
Install the new Calmax control arms in the same mounting points as the factory arms
[img src=]11870Arms in place
Using the factory bolts and the supplied locknuts secure the arms. Hand tighten only at this point
[img src=]11700Mounting the Spindle
Using that trusty bottle jack maneuver the lower arm up enough to allow the spindle to receive the lower ball joint
[img src=]11510Strut
Tighten the lower ball joint and mount the strut in position and tighten the strut bolts
[img src=]11660Swaybar
Attach the swaybar to the Calmax control arm and tighten the pivot points (don't over-tighten). If your interested in High Performance swaybar systems check out the Calmax Swaybay setups for trucks and SUV's at
[img src=]11800Upper Arm
We start off with removing the ABS bracket and brake clip and unplugging the ABS wire
[img src=]11610Pivot Points
Remove the nuts from the pivot bolts
[img src=]11880Alignment Cams
As you remove the pivot bolts be careful to retain and arrange the alignment cams so you can install them again in the same order and position as you removed them
[img src=]11460Ball Joint
Loosen and remove the upper ball joint nut, break the taper between the ball joint and the spindle and remove the upper control arm
[img src=]12440Upper Control Arms
Compare the factory arm (left) with the Calmax arm. Notice the change in the ball joint angle to optimize the angle at the new ride height
[img src=]11440Grease It Up!
Just like the lower arm liberally apply grease to the pivot points and ball joints after you install the grease zerks!
[img src=]10610The Upper Arms In
Push the upper arm into place, and using the factory bolts and alignment cams in the order and position you removed them. assemble and tighten
[img src=]10450Upper Ball Joint
Insert the upper ball joint into spindle.
[img src=]11270What are those washers for?
The hole in the ball joint stud for the cotter pin to go through requires the two washers on the nut side so you have proper alignment for the cotter pin
[img src=]11670Finished!
Here is what the installation looks like completed
[img src=]12870Lowered Measurement
Wheels back on and setting on it's own weight were getting a reading of 19". A drop of 3 1/4"
[img src=]14830Yikes! the Hangers Welded On
In 2007 Chevy started welding the leaf spring eye hangers to the frame of Silverado's full time. The gas tank and exhaust system make removing this bolt a giant pain in the #*#. We decided not to remove the leaf spring
[img src=]14610You Need Jack!
Just like the front were using the jack stands to support the frame in the rear, but we have changed from a bottle jack to a hydraulic floor jack with an extension. This baby has wheels which allow us to move the rear end around to help us install the rear kit!
[img src=]15430The axle
So we move back to the axle and remove the U-bolts and the spring center bolts, after we clamp the leaf spring pack
[img src=]14820Reverse the Pin
We install the spring center pin upside down with the pin (head) up on top
[img src=]15310Brake Lines
Remove the brake line and e-brake brackets from the frame so they are free to move with the rear end
[img src=]15760Floor Jack Advantage
Because the floor jack has wheels we can push the rear end sideways to allow us to drop the leaf spring below the axle without having to totally remove it
[img src=]15780Same Thing
Same for the other side
[img src=]15750Axle brackets
The axle brackets are located over the spring center bolts and the axle is positioned in the axle brackets
[img src=]16060Pinion Angle
Now is when you want set the pinion angle. By rotating the axle you have total control over this procedure
[img src=]17460Rear Assembly
Here is the axle on top of the leaf springs with the top plate, U-bolts and spring plate all working together to set the pinion and secure the axle
[img src=]17350Bump Stop
It's time to remove the factory bump stop
[img src=]17740Bump Stop Bracket
We used a plasma cutter to remove the factory bump stop bracket
[img src=]17780New Bump Stop
Using the drill bit and thread tap provided in the lowering kit we drilled and created threads in the hole and installed the shorter urethane bump stop
[img src=]18840Shackle Hanger
it is necessary to remove the factory shackle hanger (or mount). The factory part is on the left and we will replace it with the new DJM bracket which inverts the shackle mount
[img src=]19470Your Choice
Using the DJM shackle that is longer than factory will yield either a 4 or a 5" drop. If you use the shorter factory shackle you will get a 6" drop!
[img src=]19430The 6
This is the 6" combination
[img src=]18360The last big blow
Here we are beating away the last piece of the original factory shackle mount
[img src=]19070The New Mounting Bracket
The new shackle bracket is secured in place and the leaf spring attached to the shackle. That's it!
[img src=]25630The Stance!
This is the 3/6 look. You can also do a 3/5, 4/6, or a 4/7 kit on these late model Silverado's. It's all your choice!

35 Responses to 2007 Silverado with a Calmax 3/6 kit

  1. I have a 2011 chevy silverado crew cab that I’m doing the 4/7 drop on it would happen to know what offset and tire size I need for a 22 in wheel

    • Joe,

      All the testing we do is almost always with factory wheels and tires. So that means that factory offset should be the right choice, and you want to stay as close to the original over-all diameter of the factory wheel and tire combo. Because we don’t get to see all the possibilities with wheels and tires you might talk to a good wheel and tire guy for the proper tire size. Just remember to stick to the factory diameter and off set!


  2. i have a 2005 chev silverado 4×4 i would like to lower the front 3″ and the back 5″ is it safe to lower the front 3″


    • Paul,

      You can lower your 4X4 a full 3/5 with this kit. Pay close attention to the constant velocity (CV) joints on your front drive shafts to make sure they don’t bind or the boots don’t rub on anything and you should be good to go! Send me a picture, we need one for our site!!


  3. With the 4/7 drop on my 07 crew cab if I have 24″ wheels that are the same height as my stock tires im good or is that only on the 3/7

  4. I have a stock 07 1500 Chevy Ltz crew cab rolling on P275/55R20. I want to lower it to get rid of tire to fender gap but don’t want to change tire/rim size any idea on what lowering kit I need thanks

    • Mike,

      I think you can do anything you want with lowering and your wheels and tires. Click here to see all of the kit options we have! As a rule if you just want a moderate drop use the DJM2507-2/3,2/4,3/4 or 3/5 kits. All of these kits use Calmax Control Arms in the front and a rear flip kit with hardware to set your rear at the specified height. If you want to “show” style look try the DJM2507-4/6 or 4/7. These kits are pretty low but will align to factory specs and are drivable on a daily basis! If you need any more info let me know, good luck and send a picture!!


  5. i purchesed the 4 inch calmax control arms up front the 2507-4 for a 2011 silverado crew cab and i. The instructions it says that the djm upper balljoint is .020 bigger then the factory upper balljoint and says that i have to open the top spindle hole .020 bigger to fit that ball joint. Is this true pr did yours bolt right up to the spindle. Thanks for your time.

    • Micheal,

      If the upper ball joint will not fit through the spindle opening it would be because that particular ball joint has threads with a outer diameter about .02″ bigger than factory. There is one ball joint manufacturer where this is true. 99% of the ball joints in our kits fit like factory, once in a while a slight modification is needed and if it is, it is a fairly simple procedure! If you need to, just follow the instructions and you will be fine.


  6. Will this drop rub on 305/40r/22’s? Or will even a 4/6 drop rub? Ive been told I can’t drop my truck more than 2/4 with the tires I have on and have to go to 265/35/22. I’d rather not run rubber bands at this time. BTW 08 Silverado NNBS RST.

    • Luis,

      We can’t tell you for sure if this wheel and tire combo will rub (we could not test every combination) however we can say that if you don’t deviate from the original diameter of the factory wheel and tire (assuming the offset is the same) you should not have any clearance problems. Almost every time we do R&D on a new project the truck had factory wheels and tires or we would test with factory wheels and tires to establish a baseline for fitment. If you have a good wheel and tire guy around you he might know better than us about your particular set up!

      Hope that helps!!


    • Jesse,
      You can see all the kit options by clicking here, plus scroll to the bottom of the kit page for a link to the individual parts page for more pictures and options!!


  7. i have an 08 silverado. i had installed a 3-6 kit about a year ago. i now have a problem with the front end of the suspension “creeking” and “grinding” real bad going over bumps or pulling out of drive thru’s. what could this possibly be and what do i do to stop it? i also will put that i do baby this truck and have no idea how this has came along…

    • Kyle,
      Sounds like you need a little lubrication! The “creeking and grinding” is probably both dry ball joints and dry pivot bushings. Ball joints that go dry make awful grinding and popping sounds, so get some grease in there and it will become quiet. The pivot bushings are made from urethane, a great durable tuff material that squeaks to high heaven when its dry, or overtightened! I would recommend a teflon grease or “neverseeze” as a good lubricant for the pivot bushings and be-careful not to over tighten them. Anything past snug where there is no slop or lateral movement is to much. Also be sure to use “locktite” on the bolt and nut so you don’t have to worry you haven’t tightened the nut enough!

      DJM Tech

      • i do lube them..every oil change lol that is why im lost on whats going on…today i looked and the boot looks to be damaged on the ball joint..idk how that happended though..since i only drive the truck on good roads

        • Kyle,
          Well if the pivots and ball joints are all lubed up there really isn’t a good reason you have that type of noise. If you have a damaged ball joint boot maybe that ball joint is dry. Ball joints can make some weird awful sounds when they are to dry. The only other factor that comes to mind is temperature, cold equals noise. Check that ball joint!

          DJM Tech

    • Nick,

      I am sorry we don’t build lowered leaf springs. They lower fine but through testing we found the ride quality to be less than using the factory spring and repositioning them to the desired ride height. For an alternative to a lowered leaf please consider our rear 4″ kit for your 2011 Silverado. You can check it out here at our factory store

  8. I have a 2007 Silverado regular cab V8 do I have to C-Notch the frame with the 7″ drop? Also do I need different shocks for it. And if I do a 4″ drop in the front do I need different shocks for that too?

    • Constantino,

      Using our 7″ rear drop kit you do not have to “C-notch” the frame, you will however need to remove the factory bump stop mount and replace the bump stop with our urethane part. You will need to run shorter shocks on the rear, and believe it or not you don’t have to on the front. Your Silverado is equipped with McPherson struts in the front and stays completely stock when using Calmax control arms. Here is a link to find out more!

      DJM Tech

      • I was told by one of your reps that I can not cnotch my frame on an 2007 Chevy! He said you don’t offer it and something with the frame being a certain alloy…

        • Billy,

          The frame on your Silverado is not the traditional “I” type frame. They have engineered a boxed frame that is much more difficult to reinforce if you were to c-notch. There are kit available from other companies just be careful and make sure you don’t weaken your frame by cutting it!


  9. I recently purchased a a DJM flip kit part 3 RK2507-7 . I had a blow out on my tires before I received my order so I purchased new tires . The tires that were on my truck were 2654022 and I had a 10 inch gap between the tire tread and the fender well . I purchased a set of 3054522 to replace the bad tires and now I have a 8 inch gap . I was wondering if I could still use this kit or maybe use parts of it to lower my truck or do I need to purchase another kit? Thanks Charles

    • Charles,

      We cannot say for sure, but it seems you should have no trouble with your combination. If you find the rear to low however, you can add a couple of parts to the 7″ to bring it all the way up to 4″. Go ahead and see where you end up knowing you can make adjustments!

      DJM Tech

  10. I have a 91 Chevy 1/2 ton SWB Reg Cab. I installed the 3″ drop springs in the front and there is no difference in ride height from stock. All I did was remove the stock and install the physically shorter spring. Did I do something wrong? Will the springs settle the 3″ they were supposed to drop?

    • Aaron,

      If you install 3″ drop springs you should see some significant drop. There can be many reasons why you might not get a full 3″ drop but you should see something. Lets begin at the part, can you give me a part number from the springs? You may not actually have what you think. Also with a 3″ drop you would need to install a shorter shock absorber (the stock lenght shock will restrict suspension travel). On your 91 Chevy you need to be careful when you mount the spring to not bend the little tabs in the upper spring seat. It is very easy to bend one or more over which will not allow the spring to seat all the way, essentially making the spring longer. Plus your 91 Chevy may have over the last 20 years settled because of use and time. Any or all of these factors can influence the ride height but as I said you should see some drop. Let me know what the part numbers are and we will go from there!

      DJM Tech

  11. I have a 2007 1/2 gmc 4 door 1/2 ton with a 4/6 drop and i have a lost a lot of my turning. I saw that my tierods were at a angle that it looks like it is the problem. If that is, is there a tierod flip kit for the truck? I would like to have my turning ablity back. Other than that the kit is BADASS!! And i still tow a 16ft car trailerand it still rides great!

    • Richard,

      When you lower the front of a truck or SUV that much you lose a little turning radius. I drive a 2007 Tahoe with the 3″ arm kit and have noticed a slight loss of turning radius, it does depend on the wheel and tire combo you have. Remember there simply is not as much room for the suspension to rotate as it had at stock height. Your tierods should be fine the way they are and will not interfere with turning radius. Thanks for your compliments!

      DJM Tech

    • Stephan,

      No I am sorry to say this kit works on 2WD only. There are kits for a 4WD however. They consist of coil springs for the front and of course the same rear parts as the 2WD. We have a 2/3 or a 2/4 kit available for your 4WD. Click here to get to the Factory Store to see the kits!

      DJM Tech

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